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Author Topic: Clutch and brake pedal  (Read 4901 times)
merv
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« on: May 28, 2013, 08:16:53 AM »

I've got my eye on a set of stainless steel foot peg, brake and clutch forward controls on eBay and I wondered if any body got any clear pictures of after reversing the clutch arm on the reliant gearbox the lever linkage to pull the arm forward. That would be the rod set up from the foot pedal to the arm on the gearbox. Hope this makes sense because I need to know if I can make these pedals work before buying them.

Thanks in advance
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Olds
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« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2013, 09:02:13 AM »

Not high tech but it works.
« Last Edit: May 28, 2013, 09:04:22 AM by Old Newbie » Logged

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Olds
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« Reply #2 on: May 28, 2013, 09:03:07 AM »

&
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
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merv
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« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2013, 09:18:32 AM »

Thanks Old Newbie
If I did it your way these wouldn't be any good would they

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271203084303?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
« Last Edit: May 28, 2013, 09:21:21 AM by merv » Logged

Why do every five minute job take all day, and
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ROD
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« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2013, 10:20:23 AM »

ON...I thought the spring should be pulling the other direction to hold the thrust away from the plate,or am I going mad?  Grin
Merv...My 2p...Im always a bit wary of buying ready made stuff ,not because it is poorly made or owt,just that if the pedal angles,take off pivots etc arent quite right youve then got to alter them,and possibly spoil the nice finish and workmanship that you have paid the money out for.If they fit your foot angle etc,then alls well.From my experience,I spent a LOT of time making sure the pedal angles were just right.
« Last Edit: May 28, 2013, 10:22:36 AM by ROD » Logged
Olds
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« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2013, 11:12:33 AM »

merv-They are very pretty but probably useless for a reliant engine trike.
The clutch arm has to be pulled so you would need to fit a bell crank.  Also these are designed to be used as forwards which means that the alternator would probably hinder things. I expect that if you sent them drawings of what you wanted they would oblige but at a price.
Or you can try to use these and convert to hydraulic operation

Rod- Totally barking Cheesy
No, early ones had the spring pulling the arm back but later ones had a different type of release bearing that is supposed to be kept tight against the clutch diaphragm to prevent chatter and wear.
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« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2013, 12:00:38 PM »

O N ..yes totally forgot that! As you say,the early carbon ones (like mine) pulled away,the later ballrace ones kept in contact. Grin  In the words of Ossie O.    ...bark at the moon!
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merv
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« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2013, 09:15:29 PM »

Thanks guys
Its always good to get feed back, gives one something else to think about.
Have any body got information or pictures on how to change the clutch to hydraulic
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spanners
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« Reply #8 on: May 28, 2013, 09:26:49 PM »

Thanks guys
Its always good to get feed back, gives one something else to think about.
Have any body got information or pictures on how to change the clutch to hydraulic
merv is quite simple , Wink
but have a look at manky,s last green trike build  Wink Wink
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merv
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« Reply #9 on: May 28, 2013, 10:12:23 PM »

Thanks spanners but I cant seem to find any pictures on manky's green trike
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #10 on: May 28, 2013, 10:27:29 PM »

Haven't got any to hand here, but I sold the trike to one of my workmates, (Baychimp), so can ask him to take some for you.
Basically, I used a hydraulic cylinder attached to the pedal, the same as the brakes, to push fluid down a hose to a slave cylinder, (mine came from Merlin Motorsport, but I think they're the same as Mini ones), mounted behind the clutch arm on the gearbox. So when you push the pedal, the master cylinder operates the slave cylinder, which pushes an arm forward, moving the clutch operating arm. I did it mainly for a tidier look, but it also makes the clutch easier & smoother to use & might help anyone with foot or leg injuries. It's not actually a hydraulic clutch, it's a hydraulically operated one.

Just pulled this photo out of Dobber's trike build thread. This is my green Reliant, now owned by Baychimp. You can just about see the slave cylinder, mounted on the frame tube, behind the master cylinder & angled downwards. There's a short arm connecting it to the Reliant clutch arm. When that moves, it pushes the clutch arm forward, rather than pulling it like a normal pedal & rod set-up.
« Last Edit: May 28, 2013, 10:35:22 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #11 on: May 28, 2013, 10:38:18 PM »

Posted on behalf of Spanners:

merv you can just about see it in this pic , uses a master the same as for brakes and a metro slave cylinder
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merv
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« Reply #12 on: May 28, 2013, 10:53:41 PM »

Thanks to every body for the information, given me food for thought
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
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ROD
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« Reply #13 on: May 29, 2013, 07:16:14 AM »

Merv,are you actually building ,or just getting everything sussed in your head before you start?
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merv
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« Reply #14 on: May 29, 2013, 08:25:19 AM »

Hi Rod
I'm just getting things sorted in me head as far as you can, got most parts now. I received a tax rebate a while back and I'm trying to spend it on what I need or want for the trike build before her indoors spends it for me after all she didn't want me to start this, she don't like trikes. But you've got to have a hobby other wise what's the point.
I think I know why you were asking you want P I C T U R E S .
As soon as I start building I'll start sending pictures after all I cant asked to see other peoples if I'm not willing to show mine. Smiley
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
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