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Author Topic: Help wanted from XS750 trike owners  (Read 6072 times)
twistgrip
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« on: July 07, 2010, 10:02:31 AM »

Just joined cos I have a pair of mankee XS750s
( see http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/dandgbathome/YamahaXS750Stuff# )
one of which is intended to be converted into a trike. The other one is a runner, but I want to put back the original Instrument binnacle and lights, lower the F/Forks to their correct position and replace the long rear shocks with original shocks - then it will be up for sale
The original idea for t'other was to take it to a local trike builder for conversion, but the better half ( she's the one daubing rust converter all over the frame! )
has notions of going the bolt-on way.
Now that's OK , but I'm no welder or mechanic, I don't mind doing the rebuild/repairs with a bike as it stands, but workshop skills and tool collection is pretty basic.
So what I need to know is what's involved with altering the original XS shaft drive to mate up with a suitable axle?
How good is a bolt-on trike conversion?
What limitations to choice of rear axle?
What's involved in shortening the rear axle to mate up with the drive ?
Anybody in Yorkshire that does that kind of work after I got the bolt-on kit?
Would going this way be more expensive than shipping it down to the local trike builder?

Answers and advice will be gratefully received
« Last Edit: July 07, 2010, 10:16:53 AM by twistgrip » Logged

Regards
David
tbone
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« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2010, 05:43:03 PM »

Hello Twistgrip,
I`ve never done a bolt on but i did do a XS750 years ago, i used a reliant axle on that one and didnt worry about shortening it, i dont recall the prop running at a silly angle although it wasn`t straight.
Back to your questions though.....
1. You need to adapt the bike prop to marry up to the diff, so a spare XS prop and a prop from your donor axle will be needed.
2. Bolt on conversions can be just as good as welded, depends on the quality of workmanship, they do have the added benifit of avoiding the MSVA inspection though.
3. choice of axle is usualy determined by the size of your wallet, reliant ones have rocketed in price lately, ford ones are getting rare, still some MG ones around. Just check the ratio before you decide.
4. Several ways to shorten an axle, you`ll need to whip the half shaft out, remove the casing from the diff, cut to length then replace the casing, cut a section from the halfshaft then weld it back together.
5. Bolt on kit? do they do such things? Yes they do.....i just looked.....some are ok, others aren`t......
6. HuhHuh
« Last Edit: July 07, 2010, 05:49:36 PM by tbone » Logged

NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
twistgrip
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« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2010, 10:32:25 AM »

Hi,
Due to a misunderstanding, we missed out on a decent Rialto axle.
Which MG axles are suitable  - we talking early MGs, Midgets or MGAs onwards?
Noticed a dearth of Ford axles on the web thingy.
Cheers
David
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Regards
David
tbone
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« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2010, 06:35:42 AM »

MGB would be a good choice  Roll Eyes  3.9:1 ratio and can handle lots of power, the downside is they are bigger and heavier than reliant ones!
Dam this front wheel drive nonsense.
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
twistgrip
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« Reply #4 on: July 12, 2010, 09:54:28 AM »

Well, we popped across to to a trike builder in Huddersfield on saturday and managed to get the Picasso in & out of his back alley with no scratches or damaged mirrors B)
Glenda was most impressed with the bolt on conversion, so it looks as if afore said trike builder  is going to have some work to do in the near future.
DVLA returned my V5 application for the non-runner  ( Seller couldn't provide a V5 or registration number - Engine and frame #s match ) yet again , telling me I now have to go to the LEEDS DVLA office. This set the cogs in Glenda's head whirring and grinding with a resulting decision that we're gonna get the running Yammy ( for which we have a V5 for ) tidied up, put through its MOT and then bundled over to the trike builder for a basic conversion and then it's going up for sale.
The proceeds from that will provide more funds for the t'other bike and  will give us more time to sort out the electrics and all its associated problems and then that too will be trundled over for a conversion for us.
Happy days!
The non-runner's frame has now been rubbed down to bare metal, treated with rust converter and two coats of primer and is now ready for the topcoat. The boxes of accumulated spares and necessaries is growing in the garage and our search for Reliant Rialto back axles grows more frustrating by the day.
I did a have a first refusal on one, pending speaking to Huddersfield Trikes, but whilst we were there, the bloody seller sold it! We have a lead on some MkII Jag back axles complete with a full set of 17" alloys and tyres  - very suitable rear diff ratio, but weight and width could be a problem. Any thoughts?
Cheers
« Last Edit: July 12, 2010, 09:59:58 AM by twistgrip » Logged

Regards
David
triker_Chewie
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« Reply #5 on: July 12, 2010, 10:33:49 AM »

just make a wide trike
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twistgrip
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« Reply #6 on: July 12, 2010, 10:47:12 AM »

I must have missed the irony lamp! Wink
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David
twistgrip
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« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2010, 09:48:53 AM »

Just to let you know, we've now won two reliant axles on ebay.
So both triples are going to end up as trikes - the runner will be done first as that has the less work needed and hopefully we'll be able to sell that on to finance the rebuild of the second one.
The better half is now watching 2 full sets of Wolfrace multifit 17" wheels mit der rubber outers on ebay!
Cheers
David
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David
ByzMax
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« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2010, 10:55:59 PM »

Bolt on or otherwise make sure the bike frame is in sound condition. You will be placing stresses on this frame that is was not designed to deal with.  Wink

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twistgrip
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« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2010, 08:05:53 AM »

Well, apart from tying Glenda's Xsara to one end and my Picasso to the other and us trying to pull the frame apart, not sure how we're gonna prove whether the frame will stand up to the stresses.
We've stripped both bikes down to look at the frames and any rust that was there was only surface rust and that has now been removed and treated -all welds look in good condition and all frame bearings show no signs of wear.
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Regards
David
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