Manky Monkey Motors

any ideas

 :)

 :)

 :)

I have been given a pan european st1100 ex police bike, its been stood for 3-4 years so first thing to do is see if i can get it running. As you can see from the pictures its not complete, its missing both wheels and the seat. It did have pipes but they were so badly rusted they fell apart

Here's one I started earlier.

Failing that I do have loads of parts if you want to put it back to the bike. ( if the swing arm is not rotted )

Rear wheel, shocker, drive shaft, brake caliper etc

Don't they have quite a nice looking engine? - like a miniature V8 almost? Trike it! You know you want to!

Nice one Merv.

If you thinking of putting the mx5 diff on this. I the gearing may be wrong!

What would you suggest then Terry

Don't really Know Merv. it all depends on what you want. The st 1100 run on a 2.8 final diff ratio so you are looking in that area first A reliant is the ideal axle as they do a 2.78 and a 3.23 that will work well gearing wise. I got a reliant 3.23 on the gl1000 had a reliant 2.8 on the gl1500 changed to a 3.23. ended up fitting a jag xj6 3.05 irs .The reason I changed it was for comfort.

They have a lovely looking engine and I can't understand why Honda chose to hide it under all that plastic. Don't worry about low geared axle, just fit really big wheels  ;D

You still got your sense of humor   :D

Thats what i was thinking about the mx5 irs was for comfort also i believe they take the 4 stud ford pattern wheels

I'd started a thread about your IRS to see if you'd get some advice mate..it's coming in now hopefully you don't get to bamboozled ? ::)

Merv mx5 stud pattern is 4x100.. The st1100 is not a heavy bike as such so a reliant axle with the right shocks padded seat may be ok. or stick a jag axle on it 3.05 ratio should go well. one thing is though I can guarantee the comfort side  ;D 

I need it more and more.

As Terry says a Reliant axle from an 850 especially a Rialto 2 shouldn't be too far off the right ratio and this can be compensated for by the tyre diameter. It's probably the easiest conversion and would not need MSVA if done correctly.
If I can make a hardtail comfy enough for me, then having rear suspension  should make it OK for most folk.

Would anybody know what the mx5 final diff ratio would be. Knowing that would determine which axle to go for.

Google it Merv

Like the Reliant axles there isn't a single ratio it depends on engine/wheel size model/year but for NA NB & NC models they are roughly  3.6:1 3.7:1 3.8:1 4.1:1 4.3:1 (i think)
The best one 3.636 :1 was fitted to 2001-2005  sport models with the six speed box but being a LSD they are expensive SH. Most of the ones around are the 4.1 & 4.3:1.
Hope this helps.

Now you've confused him and me with all those figures  ::)

If you know the speed you want to achieve at a certain RPM with a certain tyre size, or wish to adjust the tyre size because the diff isn't quite the right ratio, here is a tyre size, diff ratio, engine speed, RPM calculator. (assuming a 1:1 top gear)
http://www.advanced-ev.com/Calculators/TireSize/

Wheels and Diff for a st1100
Merv you need to keep as close as possible to the original st1100 set up for wheel size and diff other wise the gearing and revs will be way out

The rear tyre on the st1100 is a 160/70/17 with a diameter of 655mm
Final drive ratio is 2.8

So you are looking for A diff ratio of 2.78 or 3.23 (reliant axles) are the closest

I would be inclined to go for one around the 3.00 mark but no more than 3.5 ratio

IRS type ford 3.9 I think they do a 3.6. or mazda 3.6 or a 3.9 both need a cradle for the diffs and wish bones for the hubs.  as Dave has said both these are rare and expensive there is others out there

Wheels and tyre sizes need to be
225/60/15 651mm diameter
225/50/17 656mm diameter

do all your home work first Mate as once done that it

All of the st1100 I've seen have had swing arm with axles fitted

If there's one near you go round to a car breakers and see what type of axles are about. then check what ratio they are

Ask paulywomdats what diff and wheel he fitted to he's st1100

Or you can give it to me and I will put a jag axle in it ;D

HELP, my head is spinning with numbers, Got to be honest non of it makes a lot of sense to me, sorry.

Merv simple numbers for you. A reliant 3.23 axle.  225/60/15 wheels. air shocks. padded seat cant go wrong ;)

Hey Merv

I have gone with a 'A' reliant axle and 17" wheels off a rover, new tyres came with them 205/45 17.

I have only had it round a car park near my place, so unable to comment on speeds etc.

Most of the one's I've seen for sale use 17" wheels and 'A' axle, so must be somewhere close.

I think a 'B' axle would be as close to final ratio as you could get using a reliant axle.

There is a ST1100 on evilbay with IRS. Item number 322902879197

Looks nice. do the paniers hinge down or a lift of lid. and how much higher does it sit on the rear compared to a bike? 

The panniers hinge down, even with the mudguards on. Don't open fully but plenty of access. The panniers lift off easily.

I made it the same seat height as the bike 800mm.

Thanks paulywombats

had a look at the one on ebay, i like the look of that irs, i wonder which one they used ?

Hi paulywombats

Have you any pictures of how your swing arm fits with the drive shaft, just so i can see it how it all goes

Just buy an old CX project and use the bits

Will take pics Today and post over the weekend.

The ST you mentioned on ebay  has a Ford diff. Probably Sierra.

Merv you have all the main component's to build a trike that will save you a lot of cash

You got the bike, axle the wheels Back. drive & prop shaft. it not to hard to join them together

From what i can see is you will need some box section or tube. mudguards/ lights/ front wheel.

I need to replace the fork tubes as they are badly pitted and rusty. The ones on ebay don't look that good for the money, could i replace the tubes with other makes if they are the same diameter ?

Stay with the same make. you really need to decide on the back end first

If you want to finish it soon go the solid axle swingarm route - an irs is a lot of work (although arguably a better solution ultimately). And yes, reliant axle would be my choice too, but I would recentre the hubs to 100mm to suite most modern wheels.

got a couple of piggy B stamps merv!
If it is the abs model pan you have forks are 43mm standard 41mm ... triumph trophy forks are 43 and much cheaper

i believe mine is the non abs, thanks for the offer of the axle stumpy, i dont know what it is but i'm picking an axle up tonight for 60 quid.
Are the chrome legs of the forks interchangeable between makes and models ? 
 

GL1500 have 41mm fork tubes but I would stick with the st ones as the wheel and callipers will be the same setup

I thought you already had an axle Merv the wife court you with parts of one in the oven and freezer :D

I do have one Terry, but as i have collected most of the bits to build a trike i need that one for that set up. Now the bike has come a long i need one for the bike. I did have ago at talking the wife into letting me keep it as a bike but she remembers my younger days on one and said NO.
I was asking about the fork tubes being interchangeable because i want to keep the lower legs for the very reason  you said Terry, that the wheel and brake callipers will be the same setup.

Pics Merv

again

Another angle

Thanks  paulywombats
Is it still a single shock set up ?

No you can't just use 41mm tubes from something else Merv. In fact you have to be a bit careful to get he right 41mm tubes for your particular bike depending on year. There are different lengths and I think internal diameters and early ABS bikes also had 41mm tubes

Yes single shock, seems to work well. I did acquire another shock, just in case.

Replaced the rear brake cylinder with a larger one from car builder solutions 3/4". After a bit of grinding and making aluminium blocks to fasten it to, I managed to get it positioned close to where the original one was. Used the original reservoir and pipe work.

Works well with the Passat brake calipers. I did try the original brake cylinder, but not enough grunt to operate the calipers.

Is your swing arm solid, i.e little rot?

Thanks for explaining that Dave, i'll  try and be careful with what i buy.
Thanks for the pictures paulywombats, at the moment i dont know how good the swing arm is, why do you ask.

It's the weak spot on the Pan, most rot away.

I sold the one from mine as it was in good condition, bought a scrapper with a good enough pivot end. I used this one for the trike.

Just a thought, even roughish swingarms go for £150 on evilbay.

Indeed, hours of fun with damper rods, springs an stuff - keep it original, just watch ebay for one of the breakers selling a pair.

Have you had it running yet Merv?

I haven't had it running, the battery is completely dead as you would expect, took a chance and put it on charge. completely knackered a bit like me really lol. My brother has a battery charger come jump pack so we connected it to the bike and it sounded like the solenoid was clicking  but the power wasn't getting to the started motor.   
So i need to get a battery first so i can have tinker around with it, don't really know where to start with it to be honest.
Also dont know what battery to buy.  I don't want to spend a lot of money on one to start with as i haven't got a lot left. If and when its on the road i would invest in a good one.

Batteries for the Pan are from £30 upwards.

If your trying to start it with the old dead battery fitted. Try using  jump leads from a car with the engine running it will give a bit more power

Well i dont how good it is but i have ordered a battery 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powerline-Nano-Gel-Upgrade-Battery-HONDA-ST-1100-Pan-European-89-02-YTX14-BS/251437711069?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3

Should be fine, either flush fresh fuel through, or connect to a remote supply to give it a good chance.

Also if it doesn't start straight off and the battery starts running down, don't flog it to death. Better to recharge and try again later.

I usually do what Terry suggests and hook the good battery to a jump lead from car with engine running, If it starts you still have a charged battery on the Pan.

Thats a good idea jumping it of a car with a charged battery on the bike except i cant get a car to it. The bike came with no wheels, i only just managed to get it out the back
I now have another axle, so i need to think about the swing arm, anybody have any ideals.
What did you mean paulywombats that the swing arm had an offset ?

Merv the offset is taken from the centre line of the bike put mark the swing arm and then measure from that mark to the edge of the swing arm the difference is the off set
May only be 10 to 15mm but enough to throw the new one out

Could you do me a drawing?
What would be the best material to build it out of, box or tube and what would be the best size of material to use.
How do you accommodate the drive shaft of the bike into the swing arm.
Anyone have plans on building a swing arm for a shaft drive bike.

You cant really do a drawing to work from to make a swing arm. I had mine on the bench worked out the centre and cut and made as I went along.

paulywombats  brought a premade one for his trike.

I have to be honest i didn't like the one paulywombats bought, it didn't look strong enough.
What would be the best material to build it out of, box or tube and what would be the best size of material to use.
How do you accommodate the drive shaft of the bike into the swing arm

Merv I used 60x40 box only reason was I found it easy to work with. you can use tube

Again no plans. the drive shaft is made up from the bike and reliant shaft welded together once you have made the swing arm to get the length

If your not happy buying one and pauls looks fine i have seen thinners box and tube the=an that  then the bike will need setting up in the work shop so you can get all the measurement

If you not really confident in doing this I strongly recommend you find some one who came do the setting up and wielding as its you and your wife that will be riding on this

Here is the swing arm on the gl1000

This is the first one fitted on the gl1500

And this one jag setup on the gl1500

Thanks Terry

No worriers Merv.  just get the bike started and running first if that don't run then it can get very expensive  :o

Agreed. There is usually an expensive reason why a bike ends up looking like this. Not always but....

Believe me I was anything but happy with what I received from Fastrikes, not happy at all.

I actually ended up cutting and redoing it just to get to where it should have been in the first place.

I also added more box to beef it up. Happy with it now.

Fastrikes came recommended by a fellow monkey, but in hindsight, I wish I had visited previously to placing order.

Thanks for that paulywombats, on that recommendation i wont be using them, glad you got it sorted though. Can i ask why you just didn't do it yourself in the first place.

I took everything into consideration and decided it would save me a load of time , as I was working away at the time.

Was looking for a good head start, turned out to be a load of hassle and put me back weeks.

Have you got this running yet Merv

Hi Terry
Not yet, i am now in possession of a brand new battery, so i might have a go tomorrow. 
Any body got a reliant robin propshaft going ?

Good luck with trying to start it. I would take the plugs out first spin it over clean the plug refit then start it.

prop shafts are getting exspensive on ebay!

As you will be modifying the Drive end to suit the bikes output shaft arrangement anyway, use whatever prop. shaft you can get for reasonable money, then make an adapter to suit the axle input flange. I have used proprietary industrial line shafts on a few occasions, and as you can select a shaft off smaller diam. and  neater proportions, that also a bonus, Morrag

Here's a pic of one I did earlier!!..............................

Thanks for that input morrag, never crossed my mind to look for something else. I'll have a look around and see what i can find.

Any propshaft company can make you up one Merv ,if you don't feel up to the task ? ;)

i just never thought of using anything else and making an adapter, its good to talk  :)

Merv -PM Sent. Tom

Merv.  I used the bike drive shaft and a reliant rear part of the prop

 used the gl1500 shaft made a bush to fit the reliant prop than welded them together

Thats what i plan on doing, its getting the reliant part lol

Merv I have a reliant UJ end, it's on 2.5" diameter tube and is 3 feet long. It's the solid end, not the splined end.

I could chop it and send. Yours for the postage + donation to Rochdale hospice.

Paul

Thanks paulywombats
Can you keep it for a while, i think Iceman might be sending me something

No problem

Pic here Merv

That looks in good nick for its age

Merv, the end I have wrapped up and ready to send is the end with the splines - I think you might be better off with the end that Paulywombats is offering. What do you think Pauly? I'll hang fire from posting for a day and see what folks think.
Cheers, Tom.

Take both Merv ..ya know it makes sense  ;)

Is both parts with the splines there uj and prop. Merv will need both

Merv, take the shaft with the splined end, you will need the movement and this solves your problem.

If you both don't mind i'll take both ends please

No Worries :)

Thanks Iceman

Hi paulywombats

If you dont mind i'll have it in one piece please, just let me know how much i owe you

Ok Merv, will sort as soon as I get a chance

Thanks

Hi Terry
Did you make the bush or did you have it made ?

I made it Merv. any engineering company should be able to make one

Merv. Have you managed to get this started yet.

Patience Terry, i have been stuck for time, plan of having a go over christmas if i can get away from the wife, if not be first week of january as i have a weeks holiday then. 

I used to find Christmas morning   best time to sneak down the workshop,, as things get to hectic and heated in the kitchen  ;) ;)

 ;D ;D believe me she would notice

I'm Just wondering why it was left in that condition.

When I first had my little bike I used to find Christmas afternoon was a great time to go for a ride as Mike would fall asleep in front of the telly!

Thanks paulywombats
Got your part of the prop today

My pleasure, hope you it will be of use.

My new front wheel

The BIG question Merv, does it run?

My brother and i are having a go tomorrow to see if we can get it running, i'll let you know. 

Don't forget to take the spark plugs out. Turn the engine over a few times then refit them to start

Thanks for that Terry, never gave that a thought

Before you have a go at starting. Check the cambelt first just as a precaution and if it does run okay check that it's charging as the whole rear end needs stripping out to get to the alternator.

Thanks Toad

The Beast lives, fitted new battery pressed starter button the Beast turns, took out a plug to check spark and there is a spark, bought new petrol poured it into tank. Pressed start button turned it over a couple of times then stopped, pressed starter again turned over a couple more times it coughed, pressed starter again burst into life, a couple of blipps of the throttle and the Beast ticks over nicely. Not bad for a bike that hasn't been started for 3 to 4 years   

Excellent news Merv. Now we have a trike build page starting :D

 :D :D :D

Can someone tell me how to post a video or down size to post because the one i'm trying to post im told is to large

That's grand, a runner  ;)

I took a video of the bike running but cant down load it to the forum, sorry.
any ideas?

Maybe download it to youtube then put a link on here??

A question for paulywombats or anyone who knows about the electrices of an st1100 .
any idea what  this bunch of wires are for they under the canopy by the back light. I have the wires for the back light and the indicators. This bunch seems to be spare if so could i remove them. 

Not saying I'm right, but a friend had one and all that wiring was for police beacons etc. he was told.

Thanks Coppersmith
now you said that, that would make sense

Trying to get the swing arm of and out

Got it  :D

Now i got the swing arm out what do i do with it. In paulywombats thread he mentions that the swing arm has an offset can someone explain this and show me where the offset is and how i  would allow for this in creating a new swing arm. Any information on this would be much appreciated.

That's a hard one to explain basically the centre line of the bike is from the front yokes steering and the centre of the seat.   but you really need the bike on a bench setup to get it right.
The offset is the difference between swing arm mounting points and the centre of the bike it may only be an 1" or less

I'm guessing most shafties have this offset, my kawasaki did.

Hi Merv

Wiring is indeed spares, I have similar bunch. You should have no use for them. ( Police equipement )

I used the axle as it was, i.e standard width. I put the swing arm in place and set the axle, using the centre of the axle as a datum, to the centre of the bike.

This then will show you where you need to place your steel to meet the axle.

You will see that from the left hand side of the swing arm to the axle is different to the right hand side.( different angles, therefore different lengths ).

Hope this makes sense and is of some use. I have a workshop manual if you need any information from it.

Hi Paul
Thanks for telling me about the bunch of wires. can you tell me where the offset is. Also do you cut both arms of the swing arm and make good. Is this how the drive shaft come propshaft run outside the the original fitting of the swing arm.

Hi Terry
Did you get my pm ?

Yes looking into it

Hi Merv
I haven't a clue what the offset dimension is. It's a bit irrelevent anyhow.

I can only point you to the pic in my post to give you some idea of what I ended up with. It's limited in what it shows.

A company in Wakefield has done conversions using large diameter tube which they have bent, so many ways to go.

really up to you now.

You have a problem Merv. Ideally you should have set the bike up between a pair of parallel rails, taken measurements either side of each wheel, with a bob weight from the seat Rails down to confirm you've found the middle.
Now you have the bob weight only. But never mind, it'll be good enough, provided you can get a middle measurement from the front.
So a "jig" (wooden or steel) is required, unless someone can tell you what the offset is, and even then setting it up isn't going to be easy.
 How do I know this? BTDT.  well I didn't even have the seat rails, and regretted not pulling the engine and setting the frame in a jig before cutting, so that at least I had a level reading for the frame (by passing a rod between the swing arm bearings), but you live and learn.

Thanks for the replies  paulywombats and minimutly. I was just starting to think about doing a jig as you mention minimutly, i think that's the way to go, at least it would give me something to work from.

Have you got the front wheel Merv?

I have now Paul, where did you get that picture of that trike and is there a better shot of it.

The point about taking the engine out is important - I didn't and regretted it - you really need to use the swingarm pivot to ensure the machine is plum. I ended up cutting, portapowering and rewelding my frame.

Patriot Bikes in Wakefield. They have pics on facebook.

Before I started on mine I spoke to them. They were talking about 1500 quid to convert the swingarm.

Found this as well

And again

Thanks Paul

Merv, what size tyres have you got on those 15" rims?

I cant remember paul, i have um all wrap up at the moment, i think they are 205x55x15

Hey Merv

Where are you up to with your build? Any progress?

I'm fitting mudguards at the moment.

Have you got the swing arm for the axle yet

Not yet Terry, i'm turning her into a naked, because of that decision i'm sorting the electrics out because a lot of them are hidden behind the plastics and front fairing especially the relays, there seems to be rather a lot of them. I have replaced the right side handlebar switch from the police one that was fitted to a standard ST one, that got rid of rather a lot of wires. Now i'm trying to work out if i can get rid of the lean angle sensor and the relay that goes with it, if i can that would get rid of a bit more.

Is the angle sensor a 3 wire green plug type.

no its not, the lean angle sensor is next door to the lean angle sensor relay
The sensor is connected to the relay by a red wire
The sensor is connected to the relay by a black wire
from the sensor i have a green wire going to earth
from the relay i have a black wire going to a 10A fuse in the fuse box for the ignition, starter and alternator
from the relay i have a brown with yellow chase going to the starter switch,
Does any of this makes sense to you ?

No

 


 ;D ;D ;D

Have you looked on a st1100 forum. i think it called a bank angle sensor a saftey device.  if the bike goes over when riding it kills the fuel pump and engine. dont think you can just unplug it.

I think it may be the engine stop relay and sensor

Would these be suitable for the disc brake conversion

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-FOR-VW-Golf-MK4-1998-2005-1-4-1-6-1-8T-1-9-TDI-2-0-Rear-Brake-Calipers/282875901090?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksi

I think they will fit, they have a 30 days return policy.

I need help. The engineer i use has gone out of business. I have found another one who thinks he can turn down the hubs but he wants the best part of 100 quid. I could be wrong but i think that's a bit steep. Can any one help.

Way too much Merv, shop around, must be more engineering places in your neck of the woods.

What do you want to turn down the hubs for.

It's either turn down the hub or machine the inside of the disc to get them to fit. If the hub is machined, you can easily replace the discs as required.

I also added this boss as a locator for the wheel, better practice than relying on the wheel studs.

Hi Paul
Did you do your own, if so fancy doing mine, i could have a road trip out to yours  :)

More than capable, just no equipment any more.

Thats a shame.

Managed to get to the lathe Merv.
I wanted to machine some parts for a project I'm doing and done these at the same time.
you going to Basingstoke in May. I will pm you later

The plan is for me to be there, since i started coming i haven't missed one 

No going back now, made a start on the swing arm   :)

Merv how are you going to attaché the new swing arm to this. apart from just  welding.

 Hi Terry, Have you something in mind, the original arm's were only welded on, all i did was cut them off and cleaned up the welds ready for the new arm's.

I would have left the swing arm as it was and just cut part of the shaft tube away as required .
That way it would have given a lot more metal left to graft and weld the new rails to.

Well onwards it is then Merv  ::)

Well we'll give it a go :)

Anymore progress on the swingarm Merv?

Not just yet Paul, iv'e  been to busy. Still playing with the electrics. trying to figure where i can put the relays and stuff.

Have you thought about relocating relays to rear cowl, loads of space in there and should be straight forward to run a wiring loom to there from the front.

I think my hazard relay is in the rear cowl along with another.

Get it on three wheels then sort the wiring and other bits out.

That's what i'm thinking Paul, yes Terry, sorry Terry. I'm just doing bits when i got five. I will start the swing arm when i have a few days off in a row.

you could use male spade connectors at front end, back to females at the rear.

The battery i'm using is a sealed unit, could i mount it led down on its side ? Also i have fitted l.e.d. front indicators, they flash with the backs which is bulb but they flash rather fast how can i slow them down. When using the hazard switch they flash at normal speed .

I would check that you have a good negative connection for the flasher relay, since the hazard relay is working correctly. Failing that you may have to replace flasher relay for one that operates with any mix of lamps i.e led and filament . These are readily available for around £8. I think yours will be a three pin. Car builder solutions are good people to speak with for advise.01580 891309.

Have you just replaced front bulbs in the original light units or are they replacement units?

As for battery, it does depend on internals. If it is a carbon mat type, then yes you can lay it in any orientation, even upside down. Most sealed, maintenance free batteries, still need to operate in the upright position.

Take advise from the battery manufacturer or supplier.

The front indicators are replacements   

This is the battery i have, it's a gel type one, so i believe i can lie it on it's side, would that be correct

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nano-Gel-Upgrade-Battery-HONDA-ST-1100-Pan-European-89-02-Replaces-YTX14-BS-/251437711069?hash=item3a8adafedd

According to Google you can lay on side, they should not be charged with the terminals facing downwards as gel may vent in this position.

What do you want to lay it on its side for merv.

I'm thinking of moving it's position

Plenty of room to move it to on a trike

Not much to report at the moment new bars and clocks fitted. Clocks had to be completely rewired. Not happy with the bars i want them longer. I also think the clocks need lowering

New headlight and indicators fitted, the headlight has a halo side light just like bmw's

Do you mean wider or taller? I think that bars too wide on a trike makes it more difficult to turn. I think a bit taller would probably be more comfortable for you as you are tall.

Hi JJ
I do mean wider

Hey mate I've found some BARS for you? ::)

Remember that to comply with lighting regulations you need two front position lights (sidelights) on a trike that is wider than 1300mm.  Positioned max 400mm from the outside edge of the vehicle.
Looking good Merv.

Funny ha ha Steve.
From what you are saying about the side lights Dave, would it be acceptable to have one on either side of the rear mudguards.

Yep. Mine are mounted on the sides of the pickup body.  Less than 400 from the outside of the mudguard (widest point).

My wider bars made mine much easier to turn and more comfortable too!  Though I did have extended yokes fitted at the same time, so can't be sure which bit helped most.

Just thought i keep you up to date with things, just changing the back of the frame slightly 

from a different angle

The slot that's cut out is to fit a l.e.d strip light that incorporates tail and brake light also indicators. Obviously the main lights will be down on the mudguards.

As my forks are not in very good condition i thought i have a go at restoring them

What they looked like after having them shot blasted

Then gave them a good old sanding with different grades of paper 

Then a very quick polish just to see what bits need going over

they slowly getting there

Good work Merv

Thanks

Ooh, shiney! They came up well didn't they.

Thanks, considering what they were like i'm pleased with them

I did that with the forks of my 400 Superdream - it had been standing in the open for two years.  Exciting seeing them coming back to what they should be!

I used a paint on lacquer afterwards - many coats!  Lasted for years.

Nice work merv

nice work sir ;)

Bit of graft and they look great. Well done Merv.

I know its been a while, still working on it slowly. I now need a pair of brake calipers and carriers, been looking on ebay and got my self all confused which isn't hard. Could someone point me in the right direction please. it would be much appreciated. 

Hi Merv

Glad to see you still on with project.I went down the VW Passat 1996 route for brakes, list of part numbers below

EBAY

Carrier item number 251650580067 New, 33.33 quid each delivered, others may be cheaper but at least you can see a pic there for reference.
Caliper item number 222788342127 Refurbished from a guy in Bradford. 60 quid the pair delivered with 12 mths guarantee.

Not ebay number Brake Hose (not essential, as you can go to caliper with copper pipe) BH778627, these do vary in price, I bought the cheapest and found them to be good
I have 2 x handbrake cables, brand new, I bought 4 at the time from a motor factors that was closing down, 10 quid for the pair plus postage if you want to use Passat brakes. These are easy to alter at the handbrake end.
You would also need E clips to retain handbrale cable at the caliper end, ebay item number 111690271629,costing 2.89 inc postage.

Hope you find info useful.

Thanks Paul
I'll get back to you on the hand brake cables, much appreciated for your help

Hi Paul
Are these the same

 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-Brake-Caliper-Rear-Left-Right-For-AUDI-A4-B5-8D-94-01-A6-4B-C5-97-05/112776505026

Yep

Would this carrier fit


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GALAXY-2-3-Brake-Caliper-Carrier-Rear-Left-or-Right-96-to-06-TRW-1001961/232585993252?fits=Car+Make%3AFord%7CMo

Page 23 disc brake conversion thread.

Why change to discs ? The standard Reliant brakes work well.

I'm with Olds on this
They may even work well with the original bike master cylinder mine did on the gl 1000 de glaze the drums

I havent any reliant brakes with the axle. I went through the  old thread last night that's why I remembered  about the galaxy carriers. I won't to know if the ones I put the link to are the right ones, if they are I'll buy them.

I've actually forgotten what I used now, but as Dave says, it was all listed in the thread at the time.

I had a pair of alfa romeo 145 brake calipers which i didn't think fit. I had another look at them today and in between the bolt holes that  you use to mount them to the disc brake conversion plate is a ridge,  2 seconds with Mr grinder and its flat, retried fitting them and all sorted.

 :)

 :)

Great to see someone making progress on something! :)

At last progress indeed..I like the wheels Merv 👍

Starting to look good Mev. But when are you going to show us the swing arm for that posh axle and wheels  ;)