Manky Monkey Motors

Ok then I have a mini (as in the car) radiator with plastic top and bottom brand new went to have a look at fitting it and theres a problem

/ when the forks are in with the left fork leg hits the radiator cap so not getting full lock 
So my options are get a smaller radiator in hight about 2/3 inches any one no which one or any suggestions
Get said radiator modified ie made shorter if I can as it has plastic top and bottom
Or get a set off yolks made up in the shape off a V so as to put the fork legs 1/2 inches out front so I can put full lock on
Can Any one think off more options

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/puffer/B4618749-5BEC-435C-ADB9-807DA1ED662D-363-00000027BCBB1F40.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/puffer/97D23A80-7D72-4400-A12D-07381A1D1CCA-363-000000281ED2FD6F.jpg)
I could maybe get it a tad closer the the frame it's bottom is at upper sump level in the pics
It never even entered my mind about this problem still suppose its all about the fun off the build.

is the radiator top branch level with the thermostat branch,,

Will you have sufficient clearance if you remove and blank off the rad. inlet stub Dave? if so just move the pressure cap to a remotely positioned header tank, Morrag

Mine touches the cap on full lock also so had to tilt rad back into the frame slightly

(http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t466/steveatthemorgue/reliant%20trike/4D88B67A-00AB-4708-979F-3AE15446C565-1001-00000142B1951204_zps977ced09.jpg)

Its is spanners I was thinking can it go lower or does it have to be level

Not sure what you mean dave
But is it remove the plastic top and blank it off and put a seperat filler cap on somewere else in the system 

Glad im not the only one steve dont feel so bad now lol

you may be best to move the rad as close to the frame as you can(i see you have a biggish gap)
then if it still touch,s on lock, adjust the steering stop to suit,

I have two dome nuts that act as stops, that hit two m8 socket headed screws on the bottom yoke, if you zoom in you can see on the frame. Looking good fella :)

Think I might have found a smaller radiator with a center cap its 350mm by 338 and 30 mm thick with 28mm outputs on it its a suzuki swift one ill mesure up tomo if its smaller it might be a option

Yeah, that's about it Dave, the seperate header would be your top-up and pressure relief point. But if you can get around the problem with a smaller Rad. that's simpler, and a better option, Regards, Morrag

You can buy in-line radiator caps, (an aluminium tube with the filler neck fitted into it), that you can splice into the top hose in a more accessible location. Somewhere like Car Builder Solutions, Europa Spares or Stafford Vehicle Components would probably sell them, or you cold make one yourself. Or how about moving the radiator sideways a little to clear the yoke? My last couple of trikes had 45 degrees of rake on the forks, but with carful positioning of the rad, (offset to the left very slightly), & the steering stops, it just cleared.

Or even put the rad at the back with an electric fan

Yup, done that too.  :)

That Mr. M, is a definitive Reliant trike, and probably my all time favourite of the breed! nice one, and nice to see it again :) :) :) :) Morrag

Why thank you, Other Mr M.  ;)

always been my favourite trike ,,, :) :) i was hoping to own youre last build but i missed it  :( :(

There'll be another one along soon I'm sure!

well my ,chevy,, hotrod hauler aint going to happen, >:( >:( >:( been f####d ///messed about by the seller /importer ,, >:( >:(

Love that green trike that's the one that started me off any today pics of it around? Sorry to jump in on the thread ..

I built 2 in the same shade of green. That one's the first one, with a Ford Fiesta radiator, (I think), mounted at the back & the coolant running through the bottom frame rails. It was featured in Back Street Heroes. Those snaps were taken at the 3 Bs' rally in Hampshire. Won Best Trike there if I remember.
Rode it for a couple of years, all over the South of England & as far up as Lincolnshire & Cambridgeshire. Eventually sold the frame, tank & seat to SkaMan, an old forum member. The tank was hand made aluminium with the speedo set into the top of it. He rebuilt it in blue with Rover rear wheels & a Suzuki front end & called it "Blue Job". I know he's since sold it, but don't know where it went.
While I was riding it, I started building Flap's orange trike. Basically built his frame the way I fancied my next one -a very basic hardtail. Before we'd finished his I'd stripped mine down to rebuild it. Kept the engine, axle, wheels & front end & put it together around a new frame, with the rad at the front.
Other things came along & it sat, almost finished, in various lock-ups & sheds, for several years. Sold it a couple of months ago to one of my workmates. He plans to MSVA it & have it on the road for the Summer, but it's been too cold for him to get out to his rented garage since he bought it. I've picked up a few ideas from you lot since then & if I'd kept it would've altered a few bits & pieces. Would be a nice one to ride I think & I'm hoping the new owner will let me take it for a spin when it's done.

They are both excellent pieces of work, Mr.M, but the original, with rear mounted rad. just edges it for me!I'm also sure that somewhere in the future will see the next development of this stable :o :o :o even though you might not think so at this moment in time, has to happen, doesn't it! ciao for now, Morrag