Manky Monkey Motors

Hi All, I need a little help please.

1. I have tried to drive out the pins that hold the clutch bearing arm onto the bar that runs through the bell housing. I have tried to drift them out with a biggish hammer and a fine scredriver to no avail, the little fatherless swines will not budge. Is there a trick to this or is it just a bigger hammer I need?

2. I want to create a new actuation arm down from the bell housing to replace the flat bar that is there. Ideally it will be a round bar / tube , as slender as I can reasonably make it. Has anyone done that, what works / doesnt work?

Thanks

Andy I've did this recently and found that a punch worked best but it needs to be a good fit
,the first one i tried went inside the pinand also the pins came out in 2 pieces so make sure
you get both out if your's are like that,they may not all be...oh and a bigger hammer always help :D

Yep , they need a set of pin punches

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200mm-Millimeter-8-Piece-Parallel-Pin-Punch-Drift-Set-2-4mm-9-5mm-NEW-WARRANTY-/390492849286?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5aeb300486
You need to tap them out from the front .
However , as they should be in one piece , the back will butt against the back casing so you need to bend / snap the back portion of the pin to enable you to get it out .

The roll pins have a tendancy to shear anyway and that is one of the reasons some folk get trouble putting the engine into gear .
This is due to the clutch thrust arm rotating around the hollow tube due to the roll pins being broken where the pin and the shaft meet .
Slight cure is to insert a solid / split pin through the middle of the roll pin after it is fitted .
This reinforces the roll pin . 
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Thanks guys. So, the follow on question - where can I get replavement pins, sounds like I will need them !

Any decent bolt shop should sell them. or just type Roll Pins into Ebay -there's millions of 'em.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120PC-ROLL-PINS-SPRING-SPLIT-PIN-ASSORTMENT-GOOD-RANGE-/271134612611?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f20e1dc83

1/8" maybe?

motorfactor/fasteners/engineering shops would probably all have them,I need to check the size
but if you can't get them locally let me know and if i have them i'll post you some over( i work in a motorfactor)

Are these em ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reliant-Robin-Clutch-Roll-Pin-5-32-x-1inch-GENUINE-Original-Equipment-8785-/181044872347?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a271d849b (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reliant-Robin-Clutch-Roll-Pin-5-32-x-1inch-GENUINE-Original-Equipment-8785-/181044872347?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a271d849b)

Looks a handy set !

Cheers Scannerzer :)

Them,s the babies as Reliant Parts World IS Reliant ; But what a price  :o
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Looked into doing this, 6mm round bar flexed but you should be able to get away with 8mm. 3/8" might be better though.
Next time I remove the gearbox, I am going to to replace the ugly actuator arm, with a chrome, left hand crank, from an old style pushbike. Some motorcycle gearlevers may also suitable with modification.
Just an idea :)

I used an old drill bit and used it in a hammer drill to get them out it warmed the pin up and they seemed to just pop out

I am certain I got my replacement pins for John Copestake (Copesake?) along with spare core plug and some other odds and ends

I used an old drill bit and a hammer,worked fine.

On my list of things to do still more powder coating lol

Punches arrived, job done. Now to design the arm. Straight tube, bit of a bend, plate with some styling ???

pics as requested. Made a new arm yesterday and fitted it on today. Im hoping to get the adjuster up at the pedal end seomehow. The rod is actually tube, I tapped it and inserted a threaded bar to go through the pivot, then screwed on another short lentgh of threaded tube at the rear to act as the "nut". So no adjustment here.

Now that I like. Great to see people starting to detail the Reliant motors. Are those plugs of some sort in the middle of each boss?

Top boss is a tube welded to the rod that goes into the bell housing, then I welded in the down rod and capped the end of the tube.  The lower boss id a tube capped at both sides. Then drilled a hole in each face to take a short rod which then can rotate. The rod from the pedal that pushes and pulls goes through the rotating bit. So what you can see is the rough end of the rotating bit. Sorry, im no engineer, so i dont know the proper terminology for all the parts :)

Neither do I -round bits & sticky out bits. Looks cool though.

I like that ! Very stylish, reminds me of some classic designs from Bauhaus.

Finished roughing out the clutch pedal and linkage, has taken forever.

Here is the overall look of the thing, before any tidy up I must add!

and here is a close up of the business end.  I intend that all this will be tidied up, properly welded then replicla chromed - The big home chrome test :)

Looking very curvy Andy. Like the unusual heel board set-up.

Cheers MM, just want it to look sort of swoopy when its done. I found my foot rests nicely on that and then back onto the fram behind. May do some filling in there, not sure yet. Here's a better shot of the actuator on the pedal mechanism

Andy I am not sure about the Reliant but on my VW I used a short length of 6mm threaded bar as a link rod from pedal pivot to master cylinder (hydraulic) and it bent the rod. I know threaded is weaker than plain rod but this was only about 9 inches long. Will you be okay with the bends in your link rod, it doesn't look very big diameter in the pics?

I think I used 12mm round bar for mine, with the ends drilled & threaded to take M8 studding for adjustment.

Hi Nabsim, its 7mm tube which I have tapped and put in 6mm threaded bar ( if i remember right ). The threaded bar is the same diameter as the original Reliant bar whatever that was. Dibbled it loads of times with my foot and it seems ok and lovely and smooth. Whan the pedall is depressed it pulls along the bar and is is trying to stretch the bar, not compress it, maybe that will help. If i find the bends are "unbending" i will remake it with something a bit beefier :)

Should be fine in tension. I used 6mm rod and deliberately put in a couple of short bends. this allows an amount of give if for some reason you press too far on the pedal. Saves breaking those pins in the clutch bearing actuating arm.

Doesn't this pull the rod forward rather than push it back or is the master cylinder at the front ..?

Yes Steve. pressing the pedal rotates the couple forwards pulling the rod and therefore pulling the clutch arm forward, pressing the thust bearing into the clutch thrust plate. No hydraulics involved :)

Ah sorry I was getting confused yes you switched it around I was thinking it was the brakes .. Doh lol

Just an observation Andy, are you going to fit some bushes to your linkage where steel rod runs through steel tube?  If not, you will probably end up with the shafts starting to seize in the tubes, when water gets in, even if you have them well greased. 

Hi Mendalot. not sure i have the skills for that / dont know how. I was going to nickle plate them and fit grease nipples, then put felt washers in each joint to keep the grease in / water out. suppose i should look up how to make and fit a bush!

Mine was pushing, if you are pulling it should be fine, I ain't picked up on that :)