Manky Monkey Motors

Well this is where I'm up to, prior to the Winter 'lay-off' when I hibernate and catch up on my reading these days!The ladder chassis now requires full welding once I strip all the suspension bits off, a coat of primer to that when done, and the front and rear suspensions as well, then reassemble. Next up will be the extended drive line,about 1200mm extended I feel! using pillow blocks to support same, Univ. joints either end. I have used 110 lbs. springs up front as the original Spit. springs at 160 Lbs-ish would be too heavy I feel. At the back some Alfie Hagon,coil over units, meant for a Norton Commando! Chassis and swinging arm all fabed. from 3mm thick box section,combination of either 50x25mm or 70x30mm.and I put my new Michelin tyres on weekend, there's posh then! just to get a feel for how it will all "sit", so there you go folks, that should keep me out of the way of the missus for the foreseeable future!!  ;D ;D ;D ;D more to follow when there's something worth writing about, Morrag

Two more! :D :D

oooo, thats nice ,, what are the front wheels off ?

K series BMW,Spanners, I had one so it seemed sensible to get a second, and as they have Brembo discs and calipers, so tickety-boo.................. ;) ;)

Few more views...................

Looking better dave

Ps the steel has finally arrived ill ring over the weekend dave

Nicely done Mr M. That's going to be an interesting build.
So where/how does the propshaft attach to the engine? Offset to one side? Is the rear facing carb going to give any induction problems?

Excellent work there again Morrag  ;)

Looking good morrag, are they one piece disks on the front not the full floaters?

You could go for a set if you convert the rear to paralever ;)

Dave, send me on down the M/S bar, along with your choice of bearing dims. plus the dimensions of the headstock tube I machined for you, or send that piece down with the bar, and I shall proceed as promised!! ;D ;D Don't know if fully floating is a real necessity on this build Nabs, but shall consider it as and when the need arises. As for the rear brake, at present Its my intention to use it as a hand brake only, and rely an the two large ex-K100 discs at the front to stop what should be a fairly light "plot". The drive shaft is indeed offset Mr. M as the attached pics shows, so a long three piece prop shaft is probably required, with two intermediate pillow block bearings, shall show you what I come up with in due course!! hopefully ??? ???

I really like that nice work.

I was going to suggest you converted to a different disk setup if it was the full floater Morrag, not sure how different models compare but they want over 200 each rotor for mine. If they are K100 you have used I will have a look at them to see if they fit when I need some.

What length is it going to be and have you decided what you are doing with body/seating yet? You aren't really going to make us wait til next year for updates are you? :)

Looking good progress Dave.Are the 'new' springs shorter as well?

Couple of inches shorter Rod, and considerably softer,I had them from a local guy who one time was a big time Rally spares outlet, but now running down, so unsure of what they were originally for, but like I say shorter and smaller diam. wire, so suits this set up. The rear springs may have to be stiffened up, although I'm building in reload adjusters, so I shall decide after initial running, whenever that will be!! Body and seats, well pretty standard alluminium torpedo type body riveted to a cage of small box section. No separate seats, just squabs and backrests due to lack of space, even then I may have to lose 1/2 stone ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D but at the mo, driveline being sorted.....Morrag ps Dave I shall give you a ring, or send a pm when the material arrives... ;) ;)

After removing the Spit body and excessive weight,plus moving the engine back a bit,Im finding the front is high,with the wheels on positive camber. Im guessing I need shorter/softer springs. Will have to have measure up to see whats available.Where did you get your ones?

I picked up a copy of the latest Back Street Heroes magazine this morning, (issue 343). There's a feature in it on Malcolm Green's Virago engined "Morgan" style 3 wheeler from Northamptonshire.
Looks like he's used the original spoked Yam' back wheel with 1930s wire wheels on the front, possibly model Y Ford, mated to Moggy Minor hubs. He's made his own front A arms & mounted them directly from the engine mounts, using a Triumph Herald leaf spring, cut in half, for suspension. A tidy build.

That does sound an interesting build Andy, I shall try and get hold of a copy. Funnily enough, I repaired a sailing dingy trailer for one of my brothers last year, and that used a pair of 1/4 ecliptics as suspension,90 degrees to the chassis, and I found that worth consideration! I have included a close up of the coil overs Rod,& as I said the springs are shorter, smaller gauge wire, and 1/4" smaller in diam, so considerably softer. To deal with the reduced diam. I machined new alloy top collars to suit, and prefabed smaller diam. steel bottom collars. Morrag

I of course favour wires Mark, but on the basis you can't see the rear wheel when the body is on,and that's a 16" GL 500 alloy wheel, and I had one K100 wheel,(plus two Brembo discs and callipers!) which has larger sized bearing housing compared to most 18" M/C wheels at 25mm bore, bearing in mind that the wheels are mow supported from inboard only, on new stub axles I have made, it seemed cost effective to obtain just one other. At some future time, and depending what turns up, then who knows!!

Funnily enuf,Ive just found a new pair of coils that may do the trick. They also are slightly smaller diam I think and I was just sorting out the possible smaller top and bottom cups!

I'm liking this...

It's the 3 Piece prop shaft that's my present headache Shaun, particularly with respect to eventual "Stripability!" for maintenance purposes, and in the search for vibration-less running, still I have a plan, and have ordered a pair of Pillow block bearings to that end, so shall post some pics when,(if!!), that plan moves forward!! ??? ??? ??? :'( Morrag

I dont know the dia of shaft you are intending to use etc,but could you do summat with the u/j's and splined ends from Spit half shafts maybe?

The 'loose' plan is a combination of standard "Silverwing" GL/CX shaft,2.5 ft. off 1" cds tube for middle prop. and a made up tail shaft, using 20mm thick wall cds, smaller H/S joint than usual car types, and rear "sliding" joint from half of an origonal GL/CX shaft I had kindly donated to me by a Forum member, Mr Mouse, soooo.............. that's plan A! so far ;D ;D Morrag

Did I promise a Reliant prop to somebody? I've got a spare one in the shed.

You asked me a while back if it was any good to me,but it isnt. Thanks Anyway.

I`m going to be in need of another prop soon, when I change the engine on Cuyddles Trike. But I haven`t asked before so if someone`s in front of me in the queue then I`ll shall just shut my gob  ;D ;D ;D ;D

I'll post in General Tech in case I'd promised it to someone else -yeah, my memory really is that bad. If no-one claims it, tis yours Cabby.

I have a st1100 drive shaft if anyone wants it all I'm asking is postage money for it

I have sent you a PM Dave

Have sent pics Dave

Been busy enuf! but as is so often the case at this point in a build, not too much to show, however, I have now completed a rather tricky 3 piece prop shaft, and that's shown below, and I have modified the swinging arm to allow for easier wheel removal, I shall fit them back on tomorrer for a final check before moving on to the radiator. Its a GL rad. which I have to reverse the inlet/outlet on so I can mount it behind the Honda motor, I'll take a few pics to show y'all, prior to getting on with it, so until then it's "Goodnight from him, and its..............." :P :P :P :P..Morrag

Nice work Dave very nice

Very nice work...and an interesting build. Is the motor a cx500 or the bigger cx650?

I would like it to be the bigger motor Hornet, but no, its a CX/GL 500cc motor, but I have used them before in 'trikes, and what they do have going for them is,a) Quite a torquey motor. b) They seem to last to high millages provided they are regularly serviced, and as I tend to buy them at high millages for projects that's important!. d) They are an un-fussy sort of mill, running on carburettors, or in this case one large S.U.carburettor, and of course they are shaft driven. At 50 Bhp its adequate power unless your a "Boy Racer" and I'd fail that test on both counts!!, and as much HP. as the pre-War, ( 2nd WW I mean|!!) JAP/Matchless "V" Twins that this project is loosely based on, maybe I'll relate the story of why a 'Cycle car' at some other time ;D ;D anyway, if someone has a 650cc motor they would part with then I'm interested, although I won't hold my breath!! Appreciate the comments Dave, trust your build is moving apace!! cheers for now, Morrag

dave really great and interesting build
al

A change in direction regarding the swinging arm this week, so, in case I need to fit a larger section tyre to the 16" rear wheel in the future, I have ditched the "dog-leg" swinging arm in favour of a 50mm wider, and parallel set up.The drive line is pretty much set up as shown now, although I may still redo the final, third, shaft, to provide a stiffer shaft with increased clearance to the chassis, we shall see. I also have thoughts of renewing the whole swinging fork, with a box section unit pre-fabed from 70x40mm box, again to increase the rear end overall stiffness,but its in the melting pot, though on the cards. However, next up is the cooling system,so that's what's now on the bench now. Depends how cold it gets now, I suppose,although I went for a run on my SV on Tuesday and it was a beautiful day here, so who knows what, hopefully! interruptions to manufacture may ensue..... :D :D :D Morrag

This is a view of the now finalised drive line set up, Morrag

Nicely done. Loving the simplicity of the chassis design (not saying it's simple to make). Wondering if you plan on x bracing?
Not finished my "normal trike" yet but you and ROD have got me thinking about the next build ;D

As there will be a deal more steel going into the structure to support the eventual alloy paneling, I'm unsure as yet how much extra triangulation of the central ladder will be required, but as I tend to build these days on a "suck it 'n' see" type of engineering, I shall probably do just that"! but it will be stiff enough when completed. I'm a big fan of simplicity and " what works for me", also, so onward with some peripherals now, then a complete strip to finalise the structural welding. After that I need to source some sensibly priced 1.2/1.3mm aluminium sheet for the body panels.So, much to do, but hey, if I finish this one too quickly I shall only start another!!, so..................... ;D ;D ;D ;D

I have now "reversed" the tappings on a CX/GL rad. and added a fan, so thats temp. mounted behind the motor now. Did a final instal of the steering rack, and now with a little 'shuffling', intend to pre-fab the first forward bulkhead next, to support this gear, so..........not too much to see, but...I do intend to replace the wooden supports! although I don't know :D :D :DMorrag

That's looking fantastic Really like that Sir.

I'm looking foward to seeing this progress,looking really good so far.Is it going to be a 2 seater,side by side?

Well, to be honest Scan. side by side, yes, for two, more like one and a bit!! at pres.anyway, but we shall see ;D ;D ;D ;D, the dims. are a bit tight, but I'm trying to avoid it looking "fat" around the middle, so.................. Morrag

Possibly stagger the seats slightly so that you aren't rubbing elbows!

Yeah, the passenger seat slightly behind the driver's, like a lot of vintage sports models. Weren't they referred to as mechanic's seats?

Looking good Morrag.
  mY2P.......... I reckon its almost impossible to not look wide in the centre if the seats are side by side,with a propshaft tunnel inbetween. I took my sizes for the cockpit from the Locost book.They are approx 40" wide at widest point(seat bulkhead) x 50" approx. long.The pedal height to u/s of the 'shelf' where the pedals mount is same as a Spit about 16"/17". This gives me a drivers seat width of 400mm ,with the passenger side a bit wider,as the prop runs off centre ,through a tunnel about 4"/5" wide.My Locost had narrow bucket seats within those sizes and were fine for comfort and squab height,IIRC.Its a bit of a battle to get the seatbelt mounts to minimum requirements!

I'll just have to lose a "little" weight then Rod, or make it a single seater!! but I know what you mean, of course, so.....................just have to end up talking to myself again, as per............ :D :D :D :D

 ;D ;D ..well I did say the passenger side was a bit wider,but I honestly wasnt eluding to the width of swmbo's posterior! ..and if she finds out I wrote that,I'll  be talking to myself and eating the cats left overs!! ;D ;D ;D

It's been a while but slow, but steady progress has been made! The motor is back together, modified to run on a large S.U. and ready to install in the chassis. The chassis is ready for paint, and once that's done on to its wheels, as I have rebuilt the Spitfire front end in this "close" season,as well, new bearings, bushes, stub axles, etc. and the BMW K100 wheels modified to take taper roller bearings, so.....onwards and upward then!! hopefully ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D, and the sun has to shine again soon, doesn't it?.TTFN, Morrag

A front view of the motor..........................

Like the SU! What's going on with the copper pipage, (is that a word?), at the front?

Well, because the original Nippon pipes are mild steel, lightly cadmium plated, they were showing their age, bit like me really! and as I had to turn the whole lot through 180 degrees as the radiator will be behind the motor, and also to give it something of a pseudo vintage feel! I thought why not, so....that's the reason Mr.M :D, I intend to pipe the rest in copper as well, and the black painted engine sort of replicates the pre-WW2 Matchless, water cooled, "V" twin engines sometimes used by Morgan in lieu of the JAP's more often associated with these three wheelers, so, there you go. It's all in the "plan", ;D, yeah, right I hear you say ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???, ttfn, Morrag

You have a plan?!
You're obviously on the wrong forum!  :P

here's a little inspiration
(http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/538851653020a4be6.jpg)

15 miles to the gallon and a radio that weights 4-5kg ! Is it a v8? Lol that's transistor tastic

Ethel and Mildred think it's a V6  :D
Don't know why but I quite like the styling. As Frank says something like the Curtis P40 at the front.

I reallllllllllly like that................. 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)Morrag

So, progressing at a sedate pace, as befits my venerable years!! The main body frame is now constructed, although will not be final welded until I strip the chassis and rotate.The pedal box is constructed and installed,as is the rear handbrake/footbrake set up,prewar Aero Morgans didn't have a rear operated footbrake! but I wanted one.The gear lever and its linkage is done and in place....and various other odds 'n' sods, so.....................onwards............hopefully

Pedalbox and rear brake arrangement.............

And a couple of views of the rear suspension and drive line.....

That's looking rather spiffing Mr M!

Nice work Morrag, looking forward to more updates and seeing it come together.


One of the front tyres on the wrong way!

A small amount more completed............here ate the BMW K100 wheels, re tyred, modified to taper roller bearings, and fitted to the overhauled Spitfire steering uprights, via new wheel spindles, machined from the solid to suit........all takes time folks, but they are now ready to fit.

A general view of the traditional "ladder" chassis, and the space frame, which is about ready for aluminium skinning....................

Some lovely workmanship there Mr M.

Chassis viewed from the rear, and the handbrake and other sundries have now been finalised.........so next is to finish the 1mm guage galvanised steel main floor, remove the cylindrical petrol tank, not shown here, for priming, and, and............well I'll get to it!!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ???

Can't wait to see how this looks "clothed" now.

Appreciated Mr. M.....its different, and has a whole different set of challenges over the more traditional trikes I built previously, but interesting, particularly the recycling of stuff that has knocked about my workshop for years, and owes me "nowt"!The floor galv. sheet is a case in point, it came from the Landing ceiling of my sons house! believed to have been used after WW2 to repair bomb damage when traditional plaster board, like many other building materials at that time, were difficult or impossible to obtain!!! 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8), my son discovered the three 6'x3' steel sheets when having that ceiling renewed a couple of years ago, so I "looked after" them for him! ;D.................

well if its made from reclaimed WW2 materials  youde best claim an age related number plate then  ;) ;) :D :D

Exceptional. 8)
Like Andy, I'm looking forward to seeing this 'clothed'. Watching this build progressing is very informative.

Well, its imminent!well unless I get distracted that is, though time tends to lose itself on me! so how imminent is another matter ;D ;D ;D ;D, but as another aside,and again with recycling in mind, but with no particular relevance, the 1" space frames box section used, yes 1" not 25mm! came from the local church halls Harvest Festival and similar ,table extenders!!dwindling congregations meant they were no longer needed, so I acquired them for my "3" ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)so maybe a little "Gott mit uns" will ensue..........................Morrag

Perhaps a clue to the final paint scheme. With Morgan doing an RAF theme, maybe Morrag's going the Luftwaffe route.
Messerschmitt or Junkers  ?   :D
Gott sei mit Euch

Well now, y'never know "Olds" but I quite fancy the MM look! whereas the motto was more perhaps in deference to my welding!! ;D ;D,...................only kiddin' :o :o :o :o :o :o

The chassis is now, finally! finished, and this is a couple of pics of it painted and awaiting the refitting of bulkheads and suspension etc. which is ready to fit, so..........................

This is a view of the removable rear "ducktail" back end, and in case anyone is wondering why a white chassis, well Aldi had a good quality "Hammerite" style paint at a very good price, but only in white, so.................... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

I'm still looking for a bike radiator if anyone has one for sale. Morrag

If the price is right, then white is perfect  :)
All looking rather professional  8)

A couple of pics to show progress is being made! rear suspension now finally fixed Morrag

And I have made the seats and had them covered by an old buddy of mine who is a retired upholsterer, they look even better in the "flesh" !! Morrag

like those seats...

yeh me too,and the rests not bad either  :)

Can't wait to see this with the body in place now. Nice.

Bit of a thread hijack I know, but have you seen Clive's latest airbrush work on FaceBook?

I had not, but it would be nice to be able to afford the real life version of same, as opposed to to the reality version!!!! :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D....Morrag

Some pictorial progress reporting! as this time of year things tend to be "slow" in the Morrag shed, if you know what I mean!! ;D ;DI shall run a few more past y'all...............................

Couple more........................

And "anuver" two....................So, its coming together,slowly, almost ready to drop the already prepared motor in & the gear linkage will then be finalised, and coolant piping installed for what is now, a reversed CX radiator, then brake lines to plum in,&,&..........................mmm...don't hold yer breath then ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)Blwyddyn Newydd Dda, pawb.....Morrag

I, for one, have been eagerly awaiting an update on this and as usual Morrag, you haven't failed to impress.

Very neat. Is that galv sheet you are using.

Yep, it is Dave, principally because it was available for nowt! having come out of the landing ceiling of a house my son bought some years ago! yeah, that's the truth! It appears it was used after WW2 to repair bomb damage, and as building materials were in short supply then, and there was a galvanised sheet plant locally, Bingo :D :D :D :D :D, well that's what I was told, and its proved excellent in use,being old style "hot dip galv," a little heavier than aluminium, but stronger, and definitely cheaper ;D ;D ;D.....Morrag

;D A perfect reason. Some decent, zinc rich primer on the cut edges and it will last forever.
Gan ddumuno iechyd a hapusrydd I chi yn 2014

Looks amazing...cant wait to see it finished  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Are you fitting a reverse gear ?

Many thanks for the seasonal greetings,in the language of heaven, Dave :D :D :D :D.Regarding reverse,well the jury is out at pres. as a reverse gearbox is both bulky and expensive, and the electrical alternatives don't appear too efficient,from what I can tell, though I have not ruled that method out yet, but initially I shall probably stick with the prewar concept of doing without, and just take care where I park ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D cheers, Morrag

looking very nice Morrag  :)

With regard to the possibility of electrical reversing. My neighbour has a huge caravan, having friction roller drive motors, fitted each side acting on the tyres.
Not very fast (walking pace) but quite capable of 'driving' the caravan up and down the road. Being over centre, sprung loaded, it would be easy to engage/disengage via a lever/cable setup. Would however add weight to the swing arm.
Another alternative is a punting pole lashed to the side. :D

Surely it's the passenger's job to jump out & push it backwards when needed?

That roller idea is interesting, but re. the "punting pole" suggestion , I am giving that real consideration, using, possibly, a pole, swivelling of a chassis rail, through a slot in the floor, passenger side!why not? :P :P :P :P :P :P :P...Morrag

You've just given me an idea for my BIVA project , using those rollers but in an alternative method of drive, THANKS .

Rollocks Rowlocks!

The mind boggles!! :o :o :o :o :o :o............................These two pics show the offset prop shaft which creates a problem of seat space on the drivers side,with the drivers seat squab requiring channeling to fit over the tunnel, and the radiator, which required its in/out stabs. moved from one side to the other, as the rad, is now behind the motor as opposed to its original position, on the 'bike,ahead, but that's the nature of screwing "one-offs" together! Cheers for now, Morrag

Someone in the States was using rollers directly onto the rear tyre as a means of drive on Harley showbikes a while ago. Might be info on them out there on the 'net somewhere.

Why not a brake disc on the prop - say on the diff nose, with a ring gear shrunk on. Bolt on a starter motor and bobs your uncle. Been thinking about this for my trike, less clutter from cables etc. What has the smallest dia flywheel? Reliant can't be far away?
Huw

There are various routes to electrical reversing 3 wheelers, and a starter motor drive to the prop. shaft is one, but it will require comprehensive electrical interlocking, to ensure the engine drive is in neutral. A form of "soft start" would be useful, along with a dog clutch arrangement to disengage the electrical drive, when moving forward under its own "steam", now steam, there's a thought!! ;D, I digress. Conventional ring-gear/starter motor pinion sizing would be too bulky for my requirements, so I'm considering 'bike starter motor, driving the 3 piece prop. shaft via a Gillmer,( toothed timing type belt) Belt, with a dog clutch to engage/disengage, wand a solid state 'soft start' control.to make the whole set up manageable. Well that the rough concept,so far! and that's assuming I bother at all!  ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???..Morrag

Mmm, electrical interlock could be done by neutral switch and clutch, that should cover it. Not sure how you'do a soft start with dc, would probably be similar to forklift (thyristor and comutating capacitor from dim memory). Would it need it anyway? Intermittent  switching would be my choice for starters. Oops, awful pun..
The engagement issue would be solved by use of a pre engaged starter. I'm tempted to try it I must say.
All the best,
Huw

...or get out & push.

Keeps it simple and simple works.

Like rowlocks maybe!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D...not you Huw, what you wrote made for interesting reading and shall be entered into the equation!!   Morrag

motability scooter motor and switch gear and friction drive rubber wheel ??? ::)

That's another interesting possibility,Mike, so if I can locate the motability scooter info & then "bits" it could be a promising alternative....Mmmmmmmm, cheers for that :-\ :-\ :-\ :-\ :-\ :-\ :-\ :-\, Morrag

got one here  hardly used (mother in-laws) but batt n, charger have been nicked  n, its 24v main feed but it will run n, move on 12v so its got the power especially if geared down ,

Mike, I'll send you a PM regarding that, OK, Morrag

I've got a mobility scooter motor thats going in my project, easy to use.

Interesting design Morrag ;-)

Can you post a few pics of what you have in the way of that mobility scooter drive Gaz?  Morrag

Be Monday , will be in the shed again then.

Sorry Morrag, will be in the shed tomorrow and I'll grab some pictures

Been one of those weeks :-/

No probs Gaz, when the mood takes you!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Things have been a might slow of late, what with Xmas and all, plus the sort of weather that most deffo. feeds my SAD syndrome, anyway, I have now finished the brakes!! see pics. I'm using Landrover 2 master cylinder and brake flexible hoses, copper brake lines, and brass "T" pieces, ex-Spitfire, from an excellent company in N.I.The rear brake is a modified Honda GL backplate, that now provides a handbrake, and an externally operated hydraulic footbrake, using a BL type "Mini" slave cylinder.  More to come....................Morrag

The rear brake set up is shown in the pic. below,will it work? well I hope to find out!! The pics are a little small to see the detail, however, I'm sure you get my drift! I have also finished the front mudguards and all their bracketry, and will post some pics, of those when I remount them, now that the brakes are done, although they are still in antitrust primer, as I'm not a fan of the MM "All over Rust", look!! Anyway,

No offence Mr.M ;D ;D.........anyway....not far off dropping the motor in now :D :D..but first, some finishing bits on the gear linkage to do, the nylon fuel line to run down the prop. tunnel, then...............well, just "then" really, so 'Rock-on' y'all, and shall report back in a bit, Morrag

Looking good :) What size rim and rear tyre are you using ?

Yup, looking rather spiffing Sir.
I'm not a fan of rust either!

The rear wheel is a standard 16" Honda GL item, fitted with a Michelin M45 cover, 110/90-16. It's a case of "suck it & See" really, until its on the road, but if I feel a larger section is required, I shall change the rim size for something wider!fair amount of machining and fabrication would be required,and it is only a Honda "V" twin, with around 50 'horses', on a good day! but if it is..., anyway, we shall see... ??? ??? ??? ???..Morrag

I put the primered front mudguards on today, having fitted them previously, then removed for primer and to sort the front brake lines.I converted a pair of £20. steel trailer guards, narrowing them by 1 1/2", and shortening them, using internal steel bracketry, welded in.Motorcycle guards would have been the first choice, but at around £60 each, I think not! ??? ??? ???, anyway, once finally "stopped" and painted, they should look OK..Morrag

Anuvver view.................

And finally.....so, what's next, oh I remember.....mutter, mutter,............. :D :D :D :D

those mudguards look awsome

Those mudguards do look rather good

Not just the mudguards......Its all looking good

Many thanks for those kind words of encouragement, y'all................ :P :P :P

All I can say is, lovely work.

Just to confirm that the build progresses, albeit slowly! well the grass keeps bloody well growing now, so |I get diverted!! bugger :D, anyway, the motors in,and prop shaft fitted. The inlet tract/carb. is done.so moving on..................

Couple of additional pics.The "plumbers nightmare" is the result of moving the radiator from forward of the engine, as per CX/GL bike installation, to the current rear fitting.The other pic. is of the engine in situ.So onwards and upwards. I have to make up clutch, choke and throttle cables next. then make an exhaust system, then.............well getting ahead of myself so................well you know what I mean...ciao for now y'all, Morrag

Any progress is good!

My grass keeps growing too - odd, that!

Well, the Summer has gone, and the grass appears to have stopped growing,( for now anyway!) so some in and out progress on the "3",with motor now fully fitted,& with controls etc sorted. After some weeks, part time that is, of fiddling, repairing, and changing, finally had the bugger running last week for the first time in 10 years!and promptly burned all the paint of the freshly finished exhaust pipe....................ho hum.......and theres more.................

The more observant of you will notice that the single S.U I had fitted is for now replaced by twin Kei-Hin's, now theres a good reason for that.....................

...........which eludes me right now, but.heres another pic!

So, by slow increments, progress continues. Next, probably some body skins, which are cut and ready for fitting. The interior is finished but seats etc currently removed to a safe place ;D.well away from the Mig set anyway! and really If I had the space to run it off road, it's drvable as of now, minus body of course, but thats a minor consideration, isn't it? :P :P :P :P :P, whatever, onward and upwards, y'all......Morrag

Always a moral booster, the first time a beastie runs. Even if it does prove that the VHT paint is never VHT enough.
Keep up the great work.

Y'know, I appreciate the sentiments Olds, but being part of the enthusiasm still, after all these years is even more important! The finish line, well that's just the start of another adventure ;D ;D ;D ;D, I'm sure you know what I mean.Bit like the reason for climbing mountains, "because their there........." Morrag

Think I know what you mean. The satisfaction is in the doing. Still, I always feel better when I first fire up an engine in a project. Not tried to start the latest one yet. That will wait till I'm feeling a bit down. Doesn't matter if it turns out to need junking, so long as I can get it to run.

Having seen Mr Morrag's "3" in the flesh last year, I can confirm it's a lovely little build & is gonna look rather spiffing trundling around the Welsh countryside.
Nice work Sir.

I must get round to trying to start one of my CX lumps shortly as well:(

 :) I've got a Rover V8 sat under a tarpaulin outside Loony's workshop that's supposed to be going to Holland in a few weeks & it's not in the car yet & never been run.

"Build it and they will come......... :D :D :D :D :D".you know it makes sense Mr.M! and Kapri, run the CX's sooner rather than later, or you just might find, as I did, a lack of cranking pressure when you do!!, mind you a reassessment leads me to believe that the current motor I have had stood for nearer 14 years since last run! :-[Not that its the end of..., as a treatment of ATF/diesel mix usually unsticks them ;D ;D.....Morrag

Just a couple of snaps to show that the move forward continues, but at a distinctly reduced pace as its...........winter!!. Been sorting wiring out, of late, time consuming bits like a mount for the dash "idiot" lights, which came out of the spares box, and was from a GL of some sort, I believe, anyway it proved to be a real time waster, although its done now and looks ok. This is in line with my desire to "recycle", as many of my existing spares stock as poss. although my missus reckons it's me being too mean to buy new,  ;D that's very hurtful that is.......................Reworked the exhaust manifolds for the umpteenth time and ran the motor today, prelim. set up the SU, and it all sounds ok,in facy quite "rorty" with no silencer fitted, I'm surprised! :-\so, not too far of bodywork starting then, so if your down my way 'Olds' come and giss us a few pointers! anyway, watch this space, but not too intently...............Morrag

Looks fantastic Morrag. So you are back to the single SU  :)
As for pointers on bodywork, I'm learning as I go. Haven't tried skinning in aluminium yet and was waiting to see how you do it. :D  I expect to ruin a few sheets before I get it right !

Ain't that the truth! however, with the exception of the rear ducktail-ish hatch cover, it's mostly flat, single plane, skin, so I'm hopeful. I'm a bit undecided as to whether I should , or need, to use Cleko rivits, not that I have ever used them anyway, but, we shall see. The SU, well, as you know, I fitted it orig ionally, then had various issues with the motor, and having to many "unknowns" decided to revert to the orig. Kei Hins, and eventually it ran ok on them. However, having made up the inlet manifold for the SU, plus all the other periferrals I felt I should give it a go, and inded so far so good, and its a bit unusual on a Honda motor! ??? so, and as an aside, I have an elder brother of 80+ plus years, and after his apprenticeship as a toolmaker, went off to the RAF for his National Service on armaments and airframes, and he was telling me today that the aluminium blind rivits they used were kept in refrigerators until use, to preserve their malleability, and then after a set time, had to be returned for melting down as they would have age hardened to a level as to render them u/s for airframes, so...... I shan't bother with that malarkey ;D ;D but interesting, none the less, cheers for now, Morrag

A question for those who know!! :D for a 3 Wheel vehicle, trike or cycle car, with one wheel at the rear and two at front, what must the rear light array look like? One central rear tail/stoplight/no. plate illumination, over a motorcycle type number plate?, plus the obligatory indicators either side on the widest part of the ducktail back? or..... who has a definitive answer?... ??? Morrag

don’t know of this helps

http://www.blogcdn.com/www.autoblog.com/media/2011/07/07-2012-morgan-3-wheeler-fd.jpg (http://www.blogcdn.com/www.autoblog.com/media/2011/07/07-2012-morgan-3-wheeler-fd.jpg)

Just the ticket Billy, ta, ;)  Morrag

From an MOT tester I know...

I already had a copy off line BG,and is very useful, but thanks anyway, hope you are making a satisfactory recovery, Morrag

Yes thanks!

I have just started 'skinning' my 3 Wheeler, so here's a couple of pics. to show that whilst slow, progress is,...well progressing :) I know there appears to be a great deal of rivets!, but its more or less in line with the spacing recommended, so... anyway, it can always double as a "Spitfire"... :D or maybe not!!..ho, hum..Morrag

And again...

And another...

Nothing wrong with rivets (unless you use too few or get lazy with the spacing ). They become part of the look of the vehicle and this is going to look so good.

Looking good Sir.   Nothing wrong with taking your time, Ive been doing my project for 6 years ..... nearly there now :)

I don't know any thing about construction with rivets ,in fact I don't know any thing about construction full stop only what I learn on hear but I agree with Old's about it looking so good

Same here!

Nice work Mr M.

A view of N/S to front.... and your comments appreciated folks, just on 3 years into the build now in fact, so on with the front "A" plates now, and then the bulkhead, so, watch this space! You are of course correct about the desirability of correct rivet spacibg Olds, but it still looks an awfull lot of rivets ;D ;D ;D ;D...Morrag

It does but it has that 'handmade' look!

Hand made it most certainly is BG, not a robot in sight!! ;D ;D ;D ;D

I like rivets,in fact one of my best friends is a rivet. ;D

.

 :D

"You keep him talking, whilst I get a policeman!!"............. :D :D :D :D

An update on a little progress of my "Doppelganger" Mog.!well you have to call it something :D at present, I'm on 449 ,4mm rivets installed, wth another couple of hundred to go! I hate bloody bodywork!! anyway, the rear tail bit I have had to do in steel, as I can weld that! So, it's moving on albeit slowly.....................

More...................

Very tidy. I like that, a lot !

Cheers Dave, and guess what I found today whilst, of course, looking for somthing else! ??? ???...........................Morrag

Anuvver.................

Nice.  ;)
Did you form the rolled bulkhead edge, (the grey primered bit), or is that a panel from something else?

I formed it out of 1.2mm m/s sheet Mr M, why 1.2 mm you may ask? well thats what I was able to "liberate" fom British Steel many years ago, and still happened to be knocking about the workshop! as it does :D, and m/s because, once again, I can weld it! Not to Dave's exacting standards, but as it's likely to be travelling at such high speeds, generally, what with a 500cc motor,'n all ;D no one will tell..........................well, thats my logic!  Morrag

A view from the O/s rear, must admit that I'm finding forming largish lumps of sheet into compound curves more than a little daunting, still, short of an English Wheel, which I have only ever seen pics. off! its the only way, I assume, ho, hum,  ???..Morrag,ps.... hey Dave, how do I get rid of all the dings I have created in the alloy panels?

The front panels are ok for dents, well, ok for my needs :o it's the rear bulkhead I ned to "de-dent"...................

Think you are doing great Morrag
Must admit that most small dings I'm not to worried about on mine and though it's going to be painted, I wont use filler on ally panels. I figure it's going to end up with loads more dings in use.
Once the panels have been riveted on getting dents out will be much harder.
Small dings I try to gently hammer out. If the material has stretched I go for the heat it up locally and push it into shape approach while hot and rarely use a steel hammer direct onto the aluminium.
This is my favourite shaping tool. A bit of mahogany chair leg. The ends are now scorched and it's getting bruised (a bit like me ).

Cheers for that info. Dave, and I now have my own, personal, table leg tool! although the wife's still giving me earache about the dinner slipping off the table now ;D...oops, just realised you said chair leg, ho hum, well too late now, and anyway, I blamed you..... ::)..Morrag

 ;D ;D ;D
I should have been specific.  It has to be Cuban mahogany, from a Regency period, sabre leg, dining chair. C.1815. :D

So, from what you imply Dave, that is unlikely to be Ikea, or MFi then, so that,s me buggered......................... :D

Well, after three years and a bit, close-ish to the finish line. I shall have to post the pics one at a time as even severely reduced in size, its a problem to do otherwise!! Morrag

The front mudguards, rad. trim and boot are all steel, hence the need for paint! Morrag

A view of the.....back end really" why steel, well because I have no facilities to weld alluminium :o :o :o :o simples...

Looking very nice Sir. Don't remember the green paint when I saw it in the flesh.

The paint is Arc-Rite Machinery & Tractor enamel, and it appears you can brush paint it with good results, so I understand, however I sprayed this on, nearest they had to BRG, although I think it's probably a John Deere colour!! ;D ;D..Morrag

I like it lots, but then half my projects have ended up green.

That went on in the lowering gloom of the end of the day last Thursday! Mr. M. in the poor light of my inner workshop, but having been waylaid hanging an outside door for my younger son for most of the day, that was the only time to fit it in! still its ok, just !:D.. but I would use the paint again as the shine is excellent, and it should be hard wearing from what it is more commonly used for, don't you think? Morrag

Near side of the GL motor, complete with household plumbing!!!.....

your trike looks really tidy ,good job

Coming on very nicely. Liking the colour.  Lighter than the more common BRG and should fit right in at agricultural shows.  :D

Last one for now....

 :)

Remember Mr.M, the bottom lip may tremble, slightly! but never the upper, sirrah........................... ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) Morrag

Been making a drivers flyscreen over the past couple of days, the materials were all from around the workshop, so other than labour, nowt, so being the theme of this build, ie. "cheap skate!" ;D I'm reasonably pleased with the result, Morrag

Another view of same screen...Morrag

So you should be boyo! That's neater than a Brooklands screen. :)

From you Dave, thats appreciated.... :D

That's very nice.  it's the part of a project that gives me the most pleasure, making  parts required from things you can find in the 'I MAY NEED IT ONE DAY DEPARTMENT' :D   I love it when people ask me where I purchased something that I have made........ Great work Morrag.   

Its now finally on Terra Firma........

Like this...

Very nice. I am liking that a lot.
Will you be fitting a front bumper or are you fitting rubber covers to the steering and suspension components ?

Very nice look forward to seeing it up close one day the attention to detail makes any build and you are nailing it or should I say rivet well done Mr morgue

Hopefully, neither Dave, not keen on bumpers for this type of motor, and rubber, er...I don't think so unless forced by circumstances to fit some form of cover for the steering/suspension, and Stump, I'm hoping the "morgue" is a way off right now!! ;D ;D ;D ;D, but appreciate the thought! :D...Morrag

Oooooops predictive text sorry

Its your worst enama
 ::)

 :D

Isn't it just ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Thats going to look good on the twisty roads of the Gower.

Ain't that a fact, my own IoM circuit, as that's where I live! Morrag ;)

Are we likely to see it out and about this year Morrag?

Well, depending on the weather, and what side of the bed I get out on! very likely. There are a number of odds 'n' sods to do, but none that would stop its maiden forray, so, we shall ponder the situation and I shall keep you all posted. As theress no hood planned, I need to get a tonneau cover made, and I'm awaiting a QD boss for the steering wheel, so I can at least get in and out of ther bloody thing without too much embarassment ;D, bits of trim to do, but nothing too significant as its decidedly minimalist! yeah, not far away....so, watch this space. Mind you, I could get side-tracked into putting my T100 back into action, so..... ???..Morrag

C'mon, c'mon, let's go for a spin!

After a Winters hibernation, I have made a tentative re-start on my Three Wheeler, by making a small, jack operated, louvre die & stamp tool, and the pics are of the bonnet of my "3", suitably now louvred! and I'm reasonably satisfied....

Well I'm impressed!

Very nice and neat. :)

Well, its finally emerged from the workshop for its "shakedown", yesterday, at a disused Karting track not too far away. Back in the workshop now with a list of 'things to do', such as rear suspension mods. to harden it up, and increasing the rear of the 3 part prop. shafts clearance to the swinging arm, etc. Plenty of other minor bits to mod. but all in all not a bad first run, so, more to come....Morrag.

That is looking really good, something to be proud of

Looks great, and it's really different!

very nice. i likey

OH! I like that too, well done. More pictures please (for us that cant do words ;D)

So how did it go? Quick? Did it handle O.K? As you expected it to be? Are you pleased?

I am awaiting a few more pics, and when I receive I shall post. Regarding handling, Mr M, steering is excellent and positive, but back end is too soft so some quite serious "surgery" will be required there I feel, including a revised sub frame. There is also an issue that I feared regarding prop. clearance where it passes under the swinging arm mid brace, is too limited on suspension compression, so that also needs removing and sorting. Other various unforseens, of course, but all in all, promising, but better 1 up than 2 up! So, things to do, but other more pressing issues need my attention else where, so this may have to be put on the back burner for a spell, we shall see, anyway, as Bugs Bunny always said, "That's all for now, folks!"....Morrag

Found a couple more, and Mr. M, speed wise, well its a 500cc motor so it ain't going to light up no Xmas Tree ;D, but having said that it was ok, although hindered by the driveline and suspension mods required, but, and if I ever get the hang of driving it! reminds me a bit of the culture shock of the first sidecar outfit, or trike ride! but I warmed to those, so...... Morrag

If it creates 2 grins like that, you must've done something right!  ;D

Well done sir. A few adjustments are always going to be needed on something like this.

I have now modified the "too soft" rear suspension, by prefabricating a sub-frame that brings the suspension units nearer vertical, and moving the damper bottom mounts nearer the wheel spindle. At the same time I have added a "tunnel" in the swinging arm upper X-brace for added prop.clearance on full "bump", and included a removable lower X-brace to run below the prop shaft. The rear end certainly feels a great deal "stiffer" and I have room to stiffen further with the pre-load adjusters , should it be required, was next n the list?........... ??? ???

Anuvver view....................

Well that certainly looks like it'll work Dave. Nicely done.

Well, I'm currently using the pair of XS Spring/dampers that you kindly "donated" Andy, but the springs are rated at 97 Lbs ,which is on the low side, but just about manageable, unless I can find a 2.5" diam.springs, 8" or 9" long, rated at 125/150 Lbs, which would be better, but for now I reasonably satisfied, Morrag.

I'd forgotten that's where they went!

I have just taken a pair of 2.5" 140lb springs off my car, but I think they are longer than 9", I will measure them on Monday. You can have them with pleasure if they are any good.

Paul.

Appreciate that Paul, even if longer I can probably accommodate if you could let me know general dims. length o/d and I/d plus spring wire diam. if possible, that would b3e a great help, Regards, Morrag

These are from Rally Design (still got the sticker on them ::) ).   Length = 10"    OD= 2.67"    ID= 1.90"   Wire Dia= 0.34"   SR= 140lb
If you think you can use them PM me your address and I will send them down.
Paul.

(http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo343/PDSheridan/2016-07-18%2010.30.05_zpsukmpydlv.jpg) (http://s390.photobucket.com/user/PDSheridan/media/2016-07-18%2010.30.05_zpsukmpydlv.jpg.html)

Paul, I shall do some measuring and figuring! tomorrow and get back to you, many thanks, Morrag

Got around to setting up the SU on the "3" yesterday, and the under bonnet area looks like this. Anyway, it needs some further minor "tweeking" when run under load, but I have lost interest for the moment, so, moving on to an overhaul of my trusty '65 T100!..................

I've been catching up on this build with real interest.
It's turned out a cracker of a creation, I must say.
Hmm... I have a mouldy Scimitar outside with Triumph TR6-derived front wishbone suspension and a fairly dodgy chassis (as they all are, with the ravages of time). I also have an RX-7 lump and gearbox in the kitchen...
It would be perfectly possible to discard the outriggers of the chassis and build a tandem -seater trike out of the bones, using a GS 1100G or a GV1400 swingarm for a wider tyre. I'm sticking with the GS origins of that purely for convenience, as I know the Suzuki parts bin reasonably well.
Your method of space framing and cladding with alloy, intrigues me.
I shall re-visit the idea when I finally get my outer workshop floor down and a proper vehicle entrance made in the front wall.

Dear newbie,not that I'm an expert but I'd check with other members before you start building anything which evolves cutting off outriggers etc ?
DVLA are cracking down on stuff now.. :'(

Hiya. Welcome to the World of Mank :)
As Steve says, cutting the outriggers off the Scimitar chassis will put you into MSVA territory. You can add mounting brackets, or re-use original mounts for other purposes, (bolting a new suspension system to the old mounts etc), but as soon as you cut or heavily modify the chassis it should be inspected & re-registered.
Having said that, there's several guys here who've built trikes from scratch & put them through the MSVA test -it's not as difficult as you might think & there's always advice available here. Building a new frame may well be easier, (& prettier), than modifying an old one.
We like lots of photos to look at by the way :)

Agreed. When DVLA are involved it's usually best to make a new chassis rather than cut up and use parts of an old one.

Points taken and heeded, thanks chaps.
The situation is slightly different in Ireland, but whether it's different in a better or a worse way, I've yet to find out.
I know that (same as the UK) a few years ago I could have done what I'm planning and nobody would have batted an eye, but now it's probably tighter.
One thing that used to be, and still will be, required is an Engineer's Report, insisted on by any insurance company (Carole Nash being about the only one that covers trikes here) before they'd issue cover. That was (and is) common for anything out of the ordinary.
I'm uncertain as yet what the legal status of the chassis will be, as it's not yet officially imported as a car, and has been sitting in my yard with its UK plates on for 15 years   ::)
I might just say I bought from some mad geezer up North.

Anyone we know? :)
Didn't realise you were in the Emerald Isle. As you say, it may be different there.
I've had to submit engineers reports a few times over the years, but they were usually just a matter of ticking boxes on a form & they accepted my local MOT bloke as a qualified auto engineer.

A slight update (tis just vapourware and in the realms of thinking about it, no metal has been cut yet).
A conversation with the Carole Nash rep on the phone, when I was renewing my bike insurance, revealed that a car-based trike needs an engineer's report, whereas a bike-based one goes through on the nod.
This changes things slightly (or a lot, depending).
I could, for example, get a Goldwing frame with logbook, rake and stretch the s**t out of it, and incorporate the frame into a spaceframe chassis with the Scim suspension at the front. Still a bike-based trike, from what they say.
Anyway, given it's not exactly unknown for one rep to say something and another one to contradict it, I'll be confirming this, and tell them exactly what I want to do.
As soon as I start cutting metal, I'll start a build thread.

Not sure that an insurance company rep. is the right person to give advice on vehicle modification legality. Thinks that a conversation with someone from the RSA might be a better start.
http://www.rsa.ie/Documents/NCT/NCT%20Manual%20Revise%20JULY%202014.pdf

I think the relevant matter is whether or not it's a 'bolt-on' type conversion, ie could be easily changed back to a bike.

My conversation related only to the insurance aspect of it.


Unwilling as I am to butcher a perfectly good GS850 frame of a bike I have a lot of time on (and attachment to), I think I'll dip my toe into the water with a bolt-on kit for the other GS, before I start the main project.
When it comes to cutting up a Goldie frame I've never ridden and don't care about, well that's different.

I know that the laws are different in your country but seeing as they have embraced European type approval, and all that entails, I'd be surprised if cutting up a frame would not involve some sort of inspection/registration procedure.
Perhaps start your own thread rather than tack this on to another persons build thread.

Yes, you're right. I've simply replied to others here, but this needs a thread of its own.
Apols for swerving this one.