Manky Monkey Motors

As the original reliant disc converter, Lord Monkey, can you please advise me on the exsessive pedal travel i have ended up with, please?

ive gone to the book, fitted mk4 golf calipers, nova discs, gti carriers, stainless braided hose, and a fireblade 5/8" master cylinder on my xs1100 hardtail trike.

i had a nightmare bleeding them, and now, with no air left in the system at all, i get rear brake, but with huge pedal travel and brake biting hard just as the cylinder reaches its internal stops.

help please!

i would have thought that the pedal should be rock hard well before the end of cylinder pushrod travel!

lev

hi Levin, sounds like the master cylinder is bottoming out before the brake pads have enough pressure behind them to bring them up against the disc,s sufficiently, you need a bigger master cylinder you may be better off using a landrover master cylinder or the kit car copy of them you get on ebay instead of a bike master cylinder they have a 3/4" bore and should cure the prob work,s a treat on mine,all the best zak

hi Zak,
the problem i have is the trike s bike derived with std pedal, vertical throw, and all the car cyls ive seen have to be mounted horizontally with res on top.

bike style as you know have res via a hose and operated from below.

any suggestions on how to fit a car style cylinder this way?

lev

hi Levvin, i know exactly what you mean i also had to do it on the xj900 project as well because the bike cylinder was just not delivering enough fluid before the piston bottomed out (not big enough) for the disc covertion, not sure what the pedal set is on yours but i would imagine it was pretty much the same as the xj with the master cylinder mounted vertical with a remote reservoir, so we had to do away with the short rod on the pivot arm on the pedal and connect a much longer one and mount the landrover cylinder horizontally on a bracket further back on the frame but also had to fit a pivot arm on the bracket that the master cylinder was on,its a little hard to explain, but if you have a look though my thread xv 750 virago project i did go into in more detail with pic,s i all so went thought in more detail with the xj900 witch i think is on page 4 0r 5 of the trike page entitled gnash and zakboys xj900 trike project,another alternative is that recently i have seen some larger bore master cylinders on eBay with remote reservoirs that i think could be mounted vertical but cant remember witch section they were in i think it may have been in the kit car spares,

old style mini  master cyl.s mount vertical with the res, built in  ;)

Hi, here is picture of how i did mine on my last GS850 Suzuki. The linkage changed vertical throw to horizontal for the Landrover clutch master cylinder. hope this helps.
regards
]pete

another photo

well its nearly horizontal ::) :)

Looks good TP. I was gonna suggest using a cam to change direction ,but wasnt sure of the existing bike set up. The only thing I would suggest from Levvins point of view is to make the cam 'legs' longer with various holes drilled in them. That way you can keep adjusting until the pedal height/pressure etc feels ok ,then chop off the excess metal.
 
        Rod

Or you could use a 5/8" Girling master cylinder with a remote reservior and knock up a mounting bracket to fit the existing cylinder mounting holes.
Or you could use your bike setup to power a slave cylinder mounted on the rear frame.

hi guys.
sussed it!

ordered a landie clutch mc a few days ago.

no need for loads of bracketry, by simpley rotating the brake pedal spindle 90 degrees anti clockwise, so it is protruding from the bottom of the spindle at 5'o'clock, and removing/rewelding the stop buffer, the arm on the spindle naturally moves the mc pushrod horizontally with pedal depression.

i tried a 5/8" fireblade mc, and it was totally useless with 2 golf mk4 calipers.

would apply the brakes at the exact moment it reached its fullest travel.

hoping this 3/4" landie mc will do the job on my xs1100 hardtail.

lev

The 3/4 mc will do the trick Lev, and if the cam on your pedal shaft can operate at the 5.00 o'clock position it will make life allot simpler,could not rotate mine to that position because it would fowl on the frame and had to keep it at the 12.00 clock position witch meant when depressing the pedal the brake rod had the opposite action to what i needed it pulled instead of pushed so i had to add another pivot leaver at the mc end to reverse the action of the brake rod when depressing the pedal.  zak

Aah, the joys of custom building!

still cant show off my handywork on here!!

just cant seem to post pics from my pc!

real easy on uk triker forum!

Anyways, ive fitted the 3/4" landie mc, just cut off the pedal spindle stop, as the frame acts as a stop now i've turned the pivot arm so its at 7'o'clock. (5'o'clock was too steep!)

fitted the mc plunger straight onto the pedal pivot arm, made a funky bracket for the mc mounted just off horizontal and it all works fine now! locks wheels up a treat!

lev

try re sizing your pics. There is a thread on here somewhere about it (now some clever a**se will pop up with the link !!! ;D ;D ;D ;D)

Yeah,but not me  :D

thats great news Lev me ol mucka

my master arrived yesterday morning, as did the new 3/8 hydraulc brake switch, went out to start designing a bracket to mount it, and rear brakes started working fine sodding things

turns out it was to do with the way you setup the handbrake, need to wind the pistons back with cable off, fit new pads, pump them out, then use the handbrake a few times, this takes up all the slack and moves the pads out

DOH

so now have 3/4 master with brand new goodridge 3/8unf hydraulic banjo brake switch, sat doing nothing, oh well put then in a corner for the next build

I could have a use for them!!!! Wanna deal????  ;) ;) ;) ;)