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Title: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on March 02, 2010, 09:14:08 PM My mate Mouse saw an 800cc,East German v twin diesel lump on e bay, and had to bid on it.
He won it and dragged it back to Newport in his sidecar outfit averaging 30mph. After finding out if it ran, he decided to put the lump in a modified BMW frame, with beemer gearbox. Pics show it in an early form, and he has been busy with a machined steel adaptor this week. Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on March 02, 2010, 09:14:39 PM And.
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on March 02, 2010, 09:15:20 PM And.
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on March 02, 2010, 09:18:05 PM Lastly.
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: tbone on March 02, 2010, 09:19:27 PM No theres something you dont see everyday
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Manky Monkey on March 02, 2010, 10:20:24 PM That's interesting Doug.
Hope you're going to keep us updated on that one. Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on March 02, 2010, 10:56:03 PM Willdo. He lives on the RatBikeZone forum. Worth a look.
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Big Uli on March 02, 2010, 11:01:48 PM Only east German manufacturer i can think of is MZ
looking at the lump i would think its a dnepr and thats not German but Czechs pre world-war 2 BMW design then again i got no idea what i'm talking about :D :D Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on March 03, 2010, 07:55:32 AM I can't remember the make now, but the lump comes out of a small truck/utillity fingy.
There are some films on You Tube. Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: trikerpete on March 05, 2010, 08:12:21 PM hhmmm thats interesting, what model beemer is the g/box from? ive got an 1800 subaru motor to go into a trike in the not too distant future and thought about using a similar g/box. i dont want to use the subaru g/box as its way too long, apart from being 4 wheel drive, for what im planning. any info would be good :)
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on March 06, 2010, 08:29:25 AM Dunno about the gearbox, but I will ask. Mouse said he was going to join on here but I don't think he has yet.
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Manky Monkey on March 06, 2010, 08:51:56 PM We had a new Mouse join on March 2nd.
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on March 06, 2010, 10:06:35 PM Ok. He's been very busy lately.
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: BikerGran on March 07, 2010, 12:19:45 AM Does that mean the forum has mice?
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Hagar on March 07, 2010, 10:54:23 AM This'll get 'em out ....
.. Hagar .. ;D Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: o0Mouse0o on March 09, 2010, 12:13:03 PM Hi,
Thanks for the interest in the Diesel Project Bike. The engine is a 15PS 800cc V twin from a German utility vehicle called a Multicar M22. this is a short vid of some in action. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNyD9SmPfL0 (http://www.trabcedes.de/images/seitefotos/schnappschuesse/ifa_und_co_heute/transporter/ifa_u_co_multicar_m22_01.jpg) This is the only time I got it to run before cleaning it and dragging it into the downstairs spare room to build the bike. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rese_X5bWXI PS I found out why the starter was not staying engaged!! My engine was allegedly fitted to a generating plant and my hope it has been on standby for the last 36 years ;) The engine is rated at 15PS at 3000rpm I'm hoping it will be reliable at 3600 and maybe produce a little more uumph! Design top speed of 63mph at 3600rpm with available BMW gears. The engine has a total marked weight of 124kg. I've lightened the flywheel by 11kg and removed a lot of the bracketery and bits so the weight is just under 100kg now. Heavy but not out of the question for putting in a bike. More detail of the gearbox flange... (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange/Flange07.jpg) (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange/Flange17.jpg) (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange/Flange28.jpg) In this shot you can see how I've cut and shaped the flywheel to accept the BMW clutch unit. If you look closley you should be able to see a bush in the flywheel centre. This accepts a 9mm silver steel bar which slides perfectly through the gearbox input shaft = gearbox and engine in alignment :) (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange/Flange34.jpg) I should be making more progress next weekend so I'll cross post the update next Sun evening or Monday depending how motivated I am. PS Any tips and tricks to statically balance a flywheel by the garden shed engineer will be appreciated. Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on March 09, 2010, 04:14:50 PM I knew that cheese would wake him up.
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on March 27, 2010, 04:00:22 PM Mouse took the bike for an MOT today and stopped in on the way home.
It failed, but only on small items so it should be sorted soon. Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Manky Monkey on March 27, 2010, 07:53:25 PM That's fabulously ...odd.
Love the car battery strapped to the saddle, & a second cable tied to the engine. Wonder what the tester made of those! Can we have a write-up for the site when it passes please. Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on March 27, 2010, 10:02:56 PM I think he needed the second battery in case the first one died too early. The lump is supposed to be cranked by hand, but it turned over well with the starter.
Reason it looks a bit iffy is that he has been working on it all week to get it finished for the weekend. Still a work in progress but a bloody good job. Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Manky Monkey on March 27, 2010, 10:05:13 PM I think it's brilliant!
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: panthershaun on March 28, 2010, 08:09:43 AM 8) 8) 8)
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: trikerpete on March 31, 2010, 09:43:55 PM :) :) :)
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: o0Mouse0o on March 31, 2010, 10:55:57 PM The next and final instalment of my bike build.
I wrote this for another forum and don't really have the time to redo any of it so please excuse my potty mouth if I've left any foul language in it. :oops: First was the exhaust. After a brief discussion over at the Diesel Bike forum I found out that Diesels don't need as much silencing as a comparable petrol engine. So armed with this gem of knowledge I set about resuscitating The Sorties that got me pulled by the cops on their last outing. I think bought for a tenner about 18 years ago when I was on an XS250. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Exhaust01.jpg) first was the flanges, using an old gasket as a template and a hole saw bought for about 50p from a carboot sale. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Exhaust02.jpg) Then it was a rummage right to the bottom of the shed to find The Sorties. They are in a bit of a state but..... (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Exhaust03.jpg) Some soapy water and a scrubbing pad soon brings a glint back to them. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Exhaust05.jpg) A ninety degree bend was cut in two to give two forty five degree bends that were then brazed together. I'm running real low on Mig gas and want to avoid buying more until after the bike is finished. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Exhaust07.jpg) Cut short ready to fit the flange bits. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Exhaust08.jpg) The finished exhaust and a handful of real exhaust fiberglass wadding I bought many moons ago for the GSX550 rat exhaust. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Exhaust12.jpg) Pokeing it in with a Pokey Dokie! (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Exhaust13.jpg) The finished thing all ready to install on the bike. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Exhaust15.jpg) :D (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Exhaust10.jpg) You get rather a lot of wadding for your it for your money This has packed the GSX550 exhaust the Diesel ones and there is this much left over! ALTERNATOR I've been hoarding a spare Bandit 1200 alternator (Actually the same as a whole bunch of the larger GSX based engines) the alternator has a tapered shaft which holds a cush drive and gear for driving it. Rather than spending a whole lot of time on a lathe turning a tapered boss up I simply dismantled the cush drive and the pulley wheel from a car alternator slipped over the shoulder on it with minimal filing. The two were brazed together after which it can be easily bolted to the alternator shaft. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Alternator01.jpg) The tapered part fo the cush drive and the car alternator pulley. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Alternator02.jpg) The pulley filed out and placed in position on the cush drive bit. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Alternator03.jpg) Brazed together and cooling before I pick it up. :wink: (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Alternator04.jpg) (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Alternator06.jpg) Bolted onto the tapered shaft of the alternator. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Alternator07.jpg) The position it will be fitted in. Opposite the starter motor in a futile attempt to balance the bike. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Alternator08.jpg) Mounted and adjustable. This is fully one way... (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Alternator09.jpg) and this is fully the other way! Now all I need is a belt to fit, This will wait until I can ride it to the Bearing & Pully shop so they can measure it themselves. I've had trouble specifying belts with them in the past. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeLQwl3zJ-s Video of the smooooth adjustable action. FRONT END After abandoning the idea of building my own front suspension for the moment as the work and effort is worthy of a project of its own. So instead I will fit a Bandit 1200 front end as I have one on a dead bike. I've fitted new bearings to the BMW headstock and the Suzuki spindle is just as wrong as it could be so I heated up the ally bottom yolk and beat out the spindle so I could for a new one. I turned down some 25mm bright bar I already had and will hold it and the yolks together with a nut at each end. I'd prefer to use metric fine and also not use chunky nuts. After a lot of hunting about for cheap dies and nuts I chose to use M20 metric fine (1.5 pitch) because it... A] Is the same thread as a VW car front hub nut and therefore cheap light weight nuts are available. B] It is the same thread as electrical conduit trunking and therefore cheap dies are available. Don't underestimate the cost of dies. If I went to a machine shop and bought a good quality M20 metric fine die it would be about £90 but a conduit die, Screwfix sell them for about a tenner but suspect the quality. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Spindle01.jpg) This is the blank spindle turned down from a piece of 25mm bright bar. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Spindle02.jpg) One end is shoulderd to take the top yolk and a nut. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Spindle03.jpg) The other end is turned to take a nut. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Spindle04.jpg) After going to the shed to cut the thread I realised I didn't have a die holder thingy so I made one with a bit of tube and some bar. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Spindle05.jpg) This took about 45 mins to make and worked very well. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Spindle06.jpg) After struggling to start the thread straight I simply popped my spirit bubble on the die and all went well after that. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Spindle07.jpg) The El Cheapo die was s**t, it cut the thread but only just and it lost cutting teeth as about 5 - 6 of them chipped off. I didn't enjoy using it at all as it felt like it was going to lock up and smash the whole time I was using it, but at least it did the job for £10 :D (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Spindle08.jpg) One thread cut. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Spindle09.jpg) Other thread cut. GEARBOX FLANGE ALIGNMENT. I've been putting this off for a bit because I have to completely dismantle the bike to get to the flywheel. For this to work properly I need to get the engine shaft and the gearbox shaft aligned as best I can, preferably perfectly. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange35.jpg) I've borrowed a friends magnetic surface gauge to help me. The magnet is stuck to the cast cylinder fins and the business end is on the inside of the flywheel centre bush I made. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange41.jpg) Now in order to turn the engine with minimal force I took the rockers off and removed the push rods so I'm not having to compress the valve springs. I also inserted the bit of wood so the valves are kept open a bit and there is no compression. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange36.jpg) The error is 0.006" or 0.15mm. I'm not happy but continue. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange37.jpg) Inserting a length of 9mm ground bar the error is now 0.005" 0.13mm. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange38.jpg) The gearbox slides over the 9mm bar and the flange is held down but not tightened so as the engine is rotated the surface gauge will indicate the error in alignment. It is unsurprisingly 0.005" out :( Not happy with 0,005" I tok it all apart and back together about three times and after a bit of tapping with the rubber mallet I managed to get it so the surface gauge didn't flinch at all as the engine was rotated :D (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange39.jpg) You'll have t take my word on it that this is where the needle stayed!! After this was achieved the bolts holding the flange plate to the bell housing were carefully nipped up tight. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange40.jpg) After that the gearbox was removed to that locating holes and pins could be fitted. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange42.jpg) These are the engineering pins and the hole they go in. They are tapered ones so I had to ream the 6mm hole out with the correct matching tapered reamer. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange43.jpg) In it goes.... (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Flange44.jpg) And tapped home with my smaller hammer = Everything in alignment again :D (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Gearboxs.jpg) I then had to reassemble the gearbox because I was suffering a severe case of lazyc**titus when I decided to mend it so I'd have a working spare on the shelf. This was about 5 years ago. The original fault that made me take it apart was a broken Shift Pawl Return Hair Pin Spring!! GEARBITS (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/GearBit1.jpg) The foot lever is connected with two ball joint thingys like this one. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/GearBit3.jpg) However I'm missing the 'ball' bit of the second one so a fix is needed. After a bit of a rummage in the bits box I found a couple of grease nipples and the body of the nipple is almost exactly what I need. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/GearBit2.jpg) The foot lever was then tapped out to M7 (Yep you read that right!) (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/GearBit4.jpg) In action and working!! (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/GearBit5.jpg) I also had to adjust and fit the break lever arm bits. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/GearBit6.jpg) Making little fiddly bits like this adjustable cable end holder bit takes about an hour! SIDE STAND (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Stand01.jpg) Next was a side stand. the wheels are on the bike and I need to move it about without having to chock it up on bricks every time. This is a spare stand from the sidecar project of yesteryear. (It can stand up by its self :wink: ) (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Stand02.jpg) LOOK! The bolt holding the stand on is a tad smaller then the hole in the mounting bracket cut from the bike frame so I could fit the diesel engine. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Stand03.jpg) (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Stand04.jpg) After another rummage in the gas fittings bits box I found this bit that looks like it may be brassy and useful. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Stand05.jpg) It was then up into the attic to my epically s**t mini lathe for some rotating butchery. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Stand06.jpg) More uber s**t lathe action. I am not cutting with a trowel I am using it as a shim :wink: (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Stand07.jpg) From another angle - Note the lay-shaft assembly. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Stand08.jpg) The business end! (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Stand09.jpg) There we have it a s**tty turned brass bit. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Stand10.jpg) Does the job simply perfectly. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Stand11.jpg) The bracket bit welded in place and the side stand assembled in place! HEADLAMP (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Headlamp02.jpg) I was relying on the leftover Bandit 1200 headlamp and shell but when I went to mount it I saw that the reflector was shagged, The photo hides a lot but you see the orange tint which is the rust inside it (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Headlamp01.jpg) After a hard think I remembered I had a VW reflector left over from something else and probably only set me back a fiver or so. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Headlamp03.jpg) It is the same diameter (almost) to the damaged one except for the mounting brackets. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Headlamp04.jpg) The other mounting bracket. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Headlamp05.jpg) Half a cup of tea later I decided to swap the brackets over. SO using some cunning and a pair of mole grips I removed the bracketry bits. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Headlamp07.jpg) Then I marked out the mounting points and cleaned the paint back to the bare metal ready for fitting.. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Headlamp08.jpg) Using the welder on its lowest setting I welded the buggers on! (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Headlamp09.jpg)# The brackets line up with the rest of the bits. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Headlamp10.jpg) :D Finished. a completely refurbished headlamp. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Headlamp12.jpg) Head lamp shell fitted and the main wires poked through ready to connect up. FINISHED!!!!!! (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Finished1.jpg) The finished Bike ready for MOT. (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Finished2.jpg) (http://www.aarrgghh.co.uk/ratbikes/DieselBike/Finished3.jpg) VIDEO. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MdpgARjh8M It Failed the MOT on a few things but the main ones were, A] Knackered rear disc, I didnt spot some rust pitting that almost caused the needle on the brakeometer in the test station to snap off. B] Knackered pissing oil and 'riding low' rear shocks. C] Cant turn the engine off without letting go of the bars ie Kill Switch inoperative, he dug his heals in over this one So not serious just a pain and having to spend money on a rear disc :( PS:I've done about 300 miles on it now and its running OK. Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: SUMO on April 01, 2010, 10:49:08 AM C] Cant turn the engine off without letting go of the bars ie Kill Switch inoperative, he dug his heals in over this one
strange - i run a mag on my shovel and it has a ground wire on the mag body that you have to lean down and squeeze to kill the engine - one of the few things my mot man doesnt rais an eyebrow at... Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on April 04, 2010, 11:04:33 AM I just spoke to Mouse after he posted on the Rat Bike Zone.
His bike passed the MOT, but the oil filler cap fell off on the way home and the engine seized. I do feel sorry after all that work. Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Manky Monkey on April 04, 2010, 11:29:14 AM Bugger. >:(
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: panthershaun on April 04, 2010, 11:36:44 AM Bobcat doesn't have a means of turning her off, I just retard the ignition and put me hand over the end of the carb... ;D ;D
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: voodoo on April 04, 2010, 02:55:20 PM HHmm mine has no kill switch either?...I have to turn it off with the key that is on my Electrics box under my seat.....never had anyone say anything at mot times and ive used a few different garages over the years...Voodoo....
After looking through your build I must say very impressive work a man of great skill....Hope you get it sorted out again... Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: madron on April 04, 2010, 04:58:21 PM wow what a build love the engineuaty if thats the correct spelling and will be useing a spirit bubble fom now on when tapping threads thanks for that learn sumat new everyday lol
shame it seized but it still ran an only few teething problems for mot and as for kill switches EVERBODY SHOULD FIT ONE as now got a nakerd leg when throttle stuck open an had to step off and my eldest son didnt even get that choice rip shane n still missin ya so please make sure you have an easy to reach and quick means of killing ya engines Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Plasticpig on April 08, 2010, 03:01:04 PM Mouse ripped off the right hand cylinder and found some possible previous damage around the join, and some scoring in the bore. After further stripping he found plenty of oil in the sump so it was not a serious sieze.
Has since taken it to a local company and was quoted a good price for a rebore. I will nag him to give us an update asap. Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: TwistedPatience on April 08, 2010, 05:41:35 PM I do like your layshaft set up, I have plans for an electric hacksaw that uses con rods somewhere.
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: afghanman on April 15, 2010, 11:09:35 AM Just out of curiosity, why did you mount the engine across the frame? and not front to back.
I would have thought it would have been less work drive wise. But then again I know nothing ::) Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: o0Mouse0o on June 01, 2010, 11:42:01 AM Just out of curiosity, why did you mount the engine across the frame? and not front to back.... This was the orientation of the original engine so to connect it to the gearbox I only needed to make an adaptor. Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: o0Mouse0o on June 01, 2010, 11:49:31 AM The overheating on one side was tracked down to a little valve thing bit that opened when the decompressor was operated that dropped a drop of oil into the inlet manifold. The 35 year old rubber had gone hard and as a result it was continuously dribbling sump oil into the intake and over fuelling the engine which I've learned is a very very bad thing for a diesel engine. It was a simple fix that took 10 mins but I think the damage had already been done by this point. This would also explain why it was so hyper sensitive to crank breathing / pressure and I had resorted to having a rag stretched over the oil filler to stop it smoking badly. After this fix the cylinder head temperature dropped and both were between 120°C and 145°c depending on the conditions and it even sounded like it was running a lot better, it was certainly more responsive.
Prior to the last and final fail I had got it working very well. It was starting straight off the button and running well and for a brief moment I had it at the staggering speed of a mile a minute. The last outing was in idyllic late afternoon summer sun and warmth through some country roads and then over the old Severn bridge to Bristol which including a few stops to check temperatures took about an hour. I thoroughly enjoyed it and the bike was running well and was everything I dreamt it would be. The engine then died again when I tried to start it to return home. No compression which could have been something simple but as I couldn't start it the recovery bloke came and took me home. When I took the head and barrel off of it the piston skirt was cracked. However further investigation reviled a warped and badly distorted cylinder head which had ultimately resulted in the piston contacting the head and causing the cracked skirt. I never got to the bottom of why the valve clearances keeped closing up but a softened head that was distorting would explain it. I suspect the ally head was over heated before I got the engine or during one of the more unsuccessful outings. Spares are hard to get and very very expensive. So that's the end of the line for that particular engine and indeed the whole project. I've now given up hope on the whole engine as a badun. RIP the V Twin Diesel Project. :'( Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: Manky Monkey on June 01, 2010, 10:25:24 PM That's a shame Mouse -sounded like it had real promise.
Title: Re: Mouse's Build Post by: morrag on June 01, 2010, 10:45:58 PM Well, that's another piece of lateral thinking sadly reaching an all too early demise, but while it lasted it showed great promise and ingenuity Mousey, and a credit to the tradition of "suck it and see" Engineering endeavor! I await your next scheme with interest, and trust that it will be similarly diametrically opposed to the more familiar "bling" concept of customising,i.e acres of shiny paint, but little novelty, as this effort, more strength to y'all,.......Morrag
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