Manky Monkey Motors

Is there a conversion that can be done to change an engine from leaded to Un-leaded, if so what needs to be done ???

I have a spare engine for parts if needed or is it best to get new items?

yes, unleaded valve seats are macined into head.. not a diy job tho,

what head?

My reliant 850.

Could I just swap the head from my spare engine? if so is it just a case of having the head skimmed or do I need anything else done?

I -& everyone else I know, just runs their Reliants on straight unleaded. No idea what vintage most of the motors are as they tend to be mixed & matched from various donor engines. I used to add a lead substitute, (made by Wynn's), to every other tankful, but gave up in the end as it didn't seem to make any difference. Never had problems with pinking or excessive wear to heads, valves etc. I think you'd have to do a lot of miles at high speed before you did much damage.

If you work out the cost of the valve seat conversion vs the actual mileage travelled it could take A LOT of miles to recover the cost of the head work ,so its probably worth staying as is,or adding the additive ,whichever you deem ok.

I have a "straight" car for commuting up & down the motorway to work, as well as a motorbike, (Triumph Speed Triple), plus the trike & my Ford pick-up project, so my trike won't ever cover huge mileages. Isn't there a device called a Fuel Cat or something, that's supposed to gradually release lead into the fuel feed?

as a general rule engines with alloy heads have harder valve seats fitted. if i remember rightly its usually nimonic 80 hard wearing so i would,nt worry to much

Thanks guys, I think I'll just run it as is and if the valve seats wear I can replace the head if and when I need to ;)

There was a chap in the Austin Maestro club who'd been running his Maestro on unleaded for 20,000 miles and not noticed any difference in it.