topconker
Jr. Member
Karma: 1
Posts: 85
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« Reply #30 on: January 06, 2013, 08:42:31 PM » |
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Sorry to hijack the thread. I'm running a 19mm master using a AP M/M lever on the rears which have 22mm slaves. Have been told I should run 16 or 17 mm master to gain the advantage I need as I can't use a foot pedal what with no right leg an all. Anyone know where I can get a M/C master with a 16 /17 mm bore? Cheers, TC
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The most precious thing you can give your kids is your time.
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scannerzer
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« Reply #31 on: January 06, 2013, 08:53:12 PM » |
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as is referred to as 5/8 in the tread is what your after 15.85mm thats what i'm going to go for myself
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andyrennison
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« Reply #32 on: January 06, 2013, 09:00:55 PM » |
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Ha ha ha
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Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle, and the life of the candle will not be shortened. Happiness never decreases by being shared
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steven brock
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« Reply #33 on: January 06, 2013, 09:01:29 PM » |
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Triumph gt6 310520135357 on flea bay ..
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steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with!
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hunter
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« Reply #34 on: January 07, 2013, 02:36:08 AM » |
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I
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nabsim
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« Reply #35 on: January 07, 2013, 01:42:49 PM » |
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Sorry to hijack the thread. I'm running a 19mm master using a AP M/M lever on the rears which have 22mm slaves. Have been told I should run 16 or 17 mm master to gain the advantage I need as I can't use a foot pedal what with no right leg an all. Anyone know where I can get a M/C master with a 16 /17 mm bore? Cheers, TC
You can still use a foot brake if you want to, mount it on the left, that's what I normally do
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topconker
Jr. Member
Karma: 1
Posts: 85
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« Reply #36 on: January 07, 2013, 02:59:31 PM » |
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Ah but my left foot operates the clutch.
The set up I have is: Left foot = clutch Left hand = front brake and gear lever, (VW trike with gear stick in centre consol). Right foot = useless Right hand + throttle and rear brakes
The AP racing master cylinder has a 19mm bore which I'm told is too big for the 22mm slaves on the back. I have a stand alone brake servo that needs a vacuum either from the inlet manaifold or even a remote vacuum pump but not sure if that will help much.
Any help is much appreciated as I have to give the brakes a 2 miute warning before I need to stop !!! TC
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The most precious thing you can give your kids is your time.
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Olds
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« Reply #37 on: January 07, 2013, 04:58:02 PM » |
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A lot of Japanese bikes of the 80s and 90s such as the xj900 with twin discs seem to use 5/8" master cylinders, though no sure if you would push enough volume of fluid to drive the rear cylinders of drum brakes.
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« Last Edit: January 07, 2013, 05:05:23 PM by Old Newbie »
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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scannerzer
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« Reply #38 on: January 07, 2013, 07:51:38 PM » |
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would it be possible to use a cable from a cable type front brake lever to remotely operate a 5/8 bore car type m/c mounted on the frame somewhere?? would that acieve what you need to do
Sorry when i read your post i thought it was a footbrake type m/c you were after
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andyrennison
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« Reply #39 on: January 07, 2013, 09:36:37 PM » |
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Could you make something to actuate the clutch when you squeeze your leg towards the centre of the frame ?
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Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle, and the life of the candle will not be shortened. Happiness never decreases by being shared
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nabsim
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« Reply #40 on: January 07, 2013, 09:57:51 PM » |
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You can get cable on handlebar to hydraulic, is it Hunter tat has this set up, I got bits to do it but haven't done yet. In the past I have used a left hand clutch master cylinder for back brakes but that was on a single bike rear brake. I use a left foot brake on the outfit with it mounted next to the left foot gear change lever. OAB on here uses a heel brake. Doesn't mean you can only use one thing with one foot
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scannerzer
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« Reply #41 on: January 10, 2013, 11:20:49 PM » |
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ended up with this, I know it's not what everyone uses but it was available and cheap M/c bore It's from a nissan teranno clutch master and is 5/8 bore fingers crossed it will do the job
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