Okay, friends, here it is, such as it is...
On my 8 1/2" X 11" drawing pad shown, 1 inch [25.4mm] equals 1 foot [304.8mm] so you're looking at 8' 4", or 100" [254cm] wheelbase, may shorten it up a bit? All but trans dimensions very close to actual, sump not shown, would hang below frame 1.5" with stout skidplate.
Hidden in downtube is a solid shaft, such that upper part of downtube slips over and separates from lower as needed. At rear seat post's top there's a structural plate face-to-face. All these members thru-bolted [Grade 8 fasteners 187,000 lbs sq in sheer strength] . I didn't draw in one gusset, running forward from that structural plate under top tube, atop seat tube, toward front to tank back end. May just run it in that wee little gap above plate, up to about shifter handle?
Checked out my 35mm Suzi forks, not confidence inspiring, so I'll fab up some Earl's/leading link. Have 2 nice 36" [91cm] pieces, ID 1.375" [34.925mm] by 3/16" [3mm] wall tube that should do it, they're within 6mm of exact length needed!
Back rest folds fully down and will adjust angle and height. Gauge panel at seat front, another at bars headstock. Tank a fab job, looked this morn at a large tube, flattened a bit [25%-35%] top to bottom, ends cut off at angle and it looked good, fabbed it up out of a cardboard oatmeal cannister & still looked good, so? Have a steel cylindrical fuel tank, not big enough, but can cut and weld it up to eyeball it before fabbing one from scratch.
Rear axle may get mounted from coil springs, lateral coil-over shocks & Panhard rod to stabilize side sway, leading link locators to frame. Possibility of doing a slant parallelogram 4 link instead, upper/lower leading links, fairly easy to fab and incredible handling & articulation, plus adjustable for mean terrain. Earl's adjustable also.
Actual length of trans tailshaft comes out about where the tire outline intersects driveshaft, that not to scale. Will do a double Cardan joint only and that alone will dictate actual length of chassis. Well, some room to play with Earl's fork too, and making that adjustable.
Flat steel plate 2 foot X 4 foot to build off of, set it true to the world and hope for the best symmetry. That will result in a portable jig to build one anywhere anytime.
Feel free to be brutal with comments/suggestions, could save lives, ummm, like mine?