am i being over causious with my not yet run in in engine

[one arm bandit]

since the rebuid ive now done 300mile kept under 3000rpm and done lots of uphill accelaration and down hill decelaration to get a good ring seal. she seems now to be running very well a little hotter than id of thought at sometimes 105c/110c highest temp but norm around 100c im not all that faithfull in the gauge @£15 new but its an indication.     the noise im concerned about is in 3rd and 4th gear around 2000rpm/2500rpm when i accelarate fairly hard or up an incline i hear like a slapping sound from the engine.... i cant tell if it goes as the revs increase as the wind noise to much round my deaf lug holes. tell me that its just me being over causious as im still noticing every sound at the mow, is it just as the revs are to low to put a hard load on the engine and if i could hear it would go as the revs increase, i go up steep hills in 2nd and dont hear this sound but the revs are around 3k i just hold it at that and tootle up fine

[Manky Monkey]

We're talking Reliant car engines are we?
Fifer would be the chap to ask. None of my engines have been rebuilt -just run more or less as they came out of the cars. They tend to be a bit mechanically noisy anyway, but obviously, without the bodywork around them, that noise is a lot more noticable.
Mr Fifer, where are you?

[nabsim]

You need a noisy exhaust OAB

[Manky Monkey]

Hum louder while you're riding -am I the only one who hums or sings while riding?

[nabsim]

No I do that as well, I also shout and swear at myopic old fogies who cut me up on the roundabout in Bakewell but think it is okay because they keep looking at you while they pull out grrrrrrrrrfr

[digger06]

manifold area leak?

[one arm bandit]

We're talking Reliant car engines are we?
Fifer would be the chap to ask. None of my engines have been rebuilt -just run more or less as they came out of the cars. They tend to be a bit mechanically noisy anyway, but obviously, without the bodywork around them, that noise is a lot more noticable.
Mr Fifer, where are you?

yes shes the trusty old reliant,the very same idea that flap invented a few years ago

You need a noisy exhaust OAB

ive been toying with the cherry bomb idea, but ive been told by many it sounds really nice as is, ive got a viper race can and the more you rev the nicer and louder it sounds, havnt let anyone else ride so i can hear but my brother said it sound more like a bike than car engine

manifold area leak?

ive done the spray test on inlet/carb etc and its all ok.

[ROD]

the noisiest part of these engines IMHO is the distributor! Sounds a lot like tappets need adjusting(which mine do a bit). Ive done about 500 miles on my new engine,being careful with revs and speeds,but it is hard to stay below certain revs. Going to do a service ,new oil/filter,plugs ,torque down head,adjust tappets etc soon. The misfire I recently had seems to be the timing needed adjusting,cos Ive test ridden it a lot since,on local runs and it seems ok now.Would like to do a longer run,but bored riding on my own.

[one arm bandit]

yeah i found the dizzy noisey,a louder tap than the tappets, ive been reading up on my noise its either telling me to knock down a gear and use a few revs or detination from over advancing, personally im thinking its the first conclusion and im being a d**k just ride the damn thing, but when i go for an evening trike in a bit ile just take the advance/retard pipe off and block the hole see if it makes any difference as its only harder accelaration when it does it, not on flat or down hill when there would be less vacume

Would like to do a longer run,but bored riding on my own.

give me 200mile rod & we'll go cruising

[digger06]

dont take too much notice of the timing marks on a rat engine, some run better with a bit less/more retard/advance, set it where its happiest, could be 5 or 6 deg different from the markings,
also, make sure the dizzy is correct, theres a few that fit but the advance is totally wrong

[one arm bandit]

its the 45d and ive fitted electronic ignition like i say the running/ tick over/ engine sound is spot on with near no flutuation.



, so can i run without advance/retard vacume pipe?? what effect would this have?? not anything to do with this thread but i have wondered about it for a while just never tryed to see the crack?

[Manky Monkey]

I didn't have one on my last trike. I took it to a local tuner, (Tom Airey in Cheriton, near Winchester. A well respected ex grass track racer). First thing he did before he put it on his rolling road was to take the vacuum pipe off the dizzy & pop a rubber blanking cap on in it's place. I'm no engineer so don't know why it would help.

"bored riding on my own".
-kinda busy with my Pop at the moment, but I fully intend to get back to working on my own trike once that's done. At the very least I should have my XS650 Yam done for the Spring. Maybe we should arrange a mass ride out somewhere.

[andyrennison]

When I was knee high to a grasshopper my regal 3/25 (deluxe!) used to suffer from what was labelled as "piston slap" if I floored the accelerator. Backing off the timing a degree or so cured that.  Later I heard it referred to as pinking. I understand that under heavy accelleration the dizzy advances the spark to give the greater volume of petrol in the chamber time to burn, and this can sometimes be to much, so the explosion in the chamber accours when the piston is not yet just over the peak of its travel (I have often wondered if a weak spring in the dizzy would allow that to happen more readily than it should).

The premature ignification causes the effect and will eventually wear your little ends. Of course all this may be Bo**ocks

[one arm bandit]

When I was knee high to a grasshopper my regal 3/25 (deluxe!) used to suffer from what was labelled as "piston slap" if I floored the accelerator. Backing off the timing a degree or so cured that.  Later I heard it referred to as pinking. I understand that under heavy accelleration the dizzy advances the spark to give the greater volume of petrol in the chamber time to burn, and this can sometimes be to much, so the explosion in the chamber accours when the piston is not yet just over the peak of its travel (I have often wondered if a weak spring in the dizzy would allow that to happen more readily than it should).

The premature ignification causes the effect and will eventually wear your little ends. Of course all this may be Bo**ocks

from what ive found out, piston slap(as ive always known it)detination/pinking/knock are all different names for the same thing. so as you said andy backing off the timing may cure my prob too. ile mark the dizzy before i alter this time

I didn't have one on my last trike. I took it to a local tuner, (Tom Airey in Cheriton, near Winchester. A well respected ex grass track racer). First thing he did before he put it on his rolling road was to take the vacuum pipe off the dizzy & pop a rubber blanking cap on in it's place. I'm no engineer so don't know why it would help

im sure ive read this on a tuning guide somwhere a while back thats what put the thoughts in my head, i may be talking s***e but im sure they said it was done for better mid range power,sacraficing top end power. id rather mid tbh for how i ride

[ROD]

After it developed a misfire,I set up the strobe and found the dizzy needed to turn about 1/4" anti clockwise(cant remember if thats advance or retard at the mo')to get the timing marks more or less lined up. But it ran well before the misfire and ticked over steady,so summat was/is amiss!