Olds
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« Reply #45 on: August 20, 2014, 04:08:42 PM » |
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Chassis now stripped of all panelling. Need to make new engine and gearbox mounts. The mounting points on the gearbox are too far back unless I make a new cross member but the whole point is to not alter the chassis at all. Seems the original Morris 8 gearbox, had brackets held in place by the tail extension bolts. so I will replicate this to suit the new box.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Olds
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« Reply #46 on: August 20, 2014, 04:27:39 PM » |
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Could also do with moving the engine back a touch. Bye the way MM being as you said that "fins are always cool" I have kept the tail fins. Thought you might like them for the T bucket.
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« Last Edit: August 20, 2014, 04:31:39 PM by Olds »
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #48 on: August 20, 2014, 06:41:11 PM » |
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Thanks Dave! Kev, can you drill the existing chassis to bolt/rivet in a new cross member, to keep it looking original, or does it need to be welded? Weren't older frames designed to flex with riveted joints, whereas welding would create a rigid area in the chassis that could fracture?
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Olds
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« Reply #49 on: August 20, 2014, 09:56:39 PM » |
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Thanks for the link Kev. Trying to do this without any mods at all to the chassis if possible. This means undoing some awful mods like angle iron welded to the top of the rear chassis rails to flatten them to allow a flat floor. . and an angle iron cross member, that the axle would hit . Keeping the std. axles, steering, brakes and suspension as well, but may have to remove a leaf from each rear spring as it's going to be a lot lighter.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Olds
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« Reply #50 on: August 21, 2014, 12:15:34 PM » |
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First purchase ( apart from the heap) a radiator grill. I know there is a long long way to go before fitting but I needed to know the shape to work out the body drawings, That and the fact it was straight, shiny and dirt cheap It was this or a battered original early Morris 8 one at £110 The bars will be replaced with mesh.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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panthershaun
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« Reply #51 on: August 22, 2014, 09:22:52 AM » |
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nice
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you ain't it, till you've "Bobbed" a Brit!!!
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #52 on: August 22, 2014, 06:22:08 PM » |
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That's a really nice grille Dave. I like the bars!
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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hunter
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« Reply #53 on: August 22, 2014, 07:28:21 PM » |
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I like the bars to.
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merv
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« Reply #54 on: August 22, 2014, 09:04:51 PM » |
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I to bars I like
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and if it can go wrong it will go wrong
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Olds
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« Reply #55 on: August 24, 2014, 07:51:07 PM » |
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New rear crossmember parts ready to be welded in. The only real bit of corrosion on the chassis. For some dumb reason Morris decided to make a channel section, from only 16swg (1.6mm) thick steel. Decided to do a double channel section with a 25mm gap between the front and rear walls forming a narrow box within the channel with spacing/anti crush tubes where bolts go through. Should look original at a glance but be much stronger. I really must get a folder. Making two channel sections that fit together took a while.
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« Last Edit: August 24, 2014, 07:55:58 PM by Olds »
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Manky Monkey
Administrator
Hero Member
Karma: 264
Posts: 55102
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« Reply #56 on: August 25, 2014, 06:27:45 PM » |
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At the moment it's all looking a bit too normal.
-fins Dave, it needs fins!
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Olds
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« Reply #57 on: August 25, 2014, 08:20:21 PM » |
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At the moment it's all looking a bit too normal. -fins Dave, it needs fins!
Funny you should say that. Been sketching out aircraft style tail fin Rear crossmember in and now I'm cutting out the bits of angle iron bed frame, someone added. Jeez they used a lot of weld.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Olds
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« Reply #58 on: August 27, 2014, 07:46:05 PM » |
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Now the back end is pretty much sorted, I am trying to work out engine/gearbox position. Seems the engine position (too far forward),was determined by the length of the prop and 'mounts' made to suit. While pondering I noticed a slight problem with this engine conversion. To remove the distributor cap the steering column needs to be removed first. Looks like I will be moving the engine back (and perhaps down and across ) a bit further than anticipated.
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« Last Edit: August 27, 2014, 07:50:34 PM by Olds »
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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panthershaun
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« Reply #59 on: August 28, 2014, 08:57:00 AM » |
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the engine being back a bit won't hurt, these cars look best with long noses
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you ain't it, till you've "Bobbed" a Brit!!!
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