Well, still pulling bits off
Fuel tank was next and it was nearly full, which I was to discover that the sender unit float was full of fuel and showing the tank to be empty. So people in the pas had been adding fuel thinking it was empty.
It’s also contaminated with water, so it’ll get used for cleaning!
Top side of the tank looks ok, but there is a leak on one point of the seam.
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Underside is pretty scabby, looks like someones “repaired” a damaged part by fixing in (welded, stuck, soldered?) a square plate. Upside, it’s not leaking.
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I’m thinking, when it comes to it I’ll fabricate and have TIGed up a replica in 2.5 or 3.0 aluminium.
This is pretty much the last of the stuff underneath, battery cable, brake pipes, master cylinders and brackets, steering idler, etc. The pedals are soaking in WD to get them apart. Other than that there’s only the front and rear axles/suspension to remove.
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So before the car is stripped completely and the block is sent for boring, I need to check on engine/gearbox clearance issues, if there are any.
I assembled the block, front mount plate, rear plate and the transmission together. The whole idea of this is to check clearances with new engine and gearbox mounts. The transmission that the car came with is a Borg Warner 35 box. This would not have been fitted as standard, it had a 3 speed manual column change box (not he easiest thing to master), and as Sue would prefer the auto box, it’s staying.
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With that done the engine/transmission was slotted back in the car and bolted in. The new head rested on and the carbs as well, as this is all a strange combination for this car. The new starter, having been modified already, was bolted in and the clearances checked all round.
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Seems to be ok. Just one more thing to check is the transmission dip stick. It’s slightly too long and from the engine/trans split comes up at the wrong angle. Fitted it back on and marked where it needs to be reshaped and shortened slightly. This can be done once the unit is back out of the car.
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Later