dave 67
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« on: January 29, 2013, 08:16:07 AM » |
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So if you swap the clutch control arm around does it still need to be pushed or pulled from the foot controll just asking Befor going into the shed to create more scrap metal Thanks all
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never to old to learn
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Olds
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« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2013, 08:30:13 AM » |
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Assuming you are talking about the Reliant box and the pedal is toward the front of the frame, or at least in front of the gearbox,and you are swapping sides, then it stays a pull action.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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dave 67
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« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2013, 08:56:18 AM » |
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Thanks for that old newbie The clutch isnt conected to the arm as im waiting for parts so could not check
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« Last Edit: January 29, 2013, 08:57:57 AM by dave 67 »
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never to old to learn
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steven brock
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« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2013, 03:02:13 PM » |
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Jus to add confusion mine pushes forward with a slave cylinder.. Push or pull clutch control arm ???????
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steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with!
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dave 67
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« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2013, 03:09:10 PM » |
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It was one off those moments this morning im off for 7 days now and want to crack on with the trike so thought id start on the foot controls but could not think which way the rod went to operate the clutch steve I do like your trike but you need to paint you control arm steve you can see rust on it
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never to old to learn
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Olds
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« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2013, 04:05:46 PM » |
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Jus to add confusion mine pushes forward with a slave cylinder..
Forgot about that OK, if you want to complicate things be different, you can go hudraulic . SB, are you using foot or hand operated master cylinder on that?
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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steven brock
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« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2013, 06:55:49 PM » |
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Foot .. An a little rust don't harm
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steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with!
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #7 on: January 29, 2013, 09:42:09 PM » |
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Same set-up I used on my last trike, (I understand it's new owner visited you for a chat the other day Newbie, so you can go & have a look at his/mine & compare notes). The hydraulic slave cylinder gives a nice smooth action to the pedal with very little effort needed -I used to find the Reliant clutch got a bit heavy when sat in slow moving traffic.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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one arm bandit
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« Reply #8 on: January 29, 2013, 09:57:45 PM » |
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very much stop or go with no inbetween was my prob, and felt quite notchy. i could live with it though.. only going hydraulic for symetrical purposes
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #9 on: January 29, 2013, 10:22:04 PM » |
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Yeah, the notchiness is the sprung "fingers" in the middle of the clutch popping in & out. My pedals were quite short & I found it hard work to hold the clutch down while pootling through slow traffic. The hydraulic set-up cured that. I had pedals up front, with long pushrods going back to the master cylinders. If I'd kept the trike, I would've done what I'd originally planned to do & move the cylinders up to the pedals, then run the hydraulic hoses inside the frame tubes to make everything tidier.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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steven brock
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« Reply #10 on: January 29, 2013, 11:25:08 PM » |
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I think the two cylinders at the rear look better than two stuck at the front but yeah I guess it tidier Andy how powerful we're your brakes ?
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steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with!
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #11 on: January 30, 2013, 12:02:57 AM » |
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How do you measure them? They stopped it with no problems at all.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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one arm bandit
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« Reply #12 on: January 30, 2013, 03:35:21 PM » |
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Yeah, the notchiness is the sprung "fingers" in the middle of the clutch popping in & out. My pedals were quite short & I found it hard work to hold the clutch down while pootling through slow traffic. The hydraulic set-up cured that. I had pedals up front, with long pushrods going back to the master cylinders. If I'd kept the trike, I would've done what I'd originally planned to do & move the cylinders up to the pedals, then run the hydraulic hoses inside the frame tubes to make everything tidier.
thats what im doing two up front sorry steve
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dave 67
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« Reply #13 on: January 30, 2013, 07:24:24 PM » |
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Same set-up I used on my last trike, (I understand it's new owner visited you for a chat the other day Newbie, so you can go & have a look at his/mine & compare notes). The hydraulic slave cylinder gives a nice smooth action to the pedal with very little effort needed -I used to find the Reliant clutch got a bit heavy when sat in slow moving traffic.
Im thinking off this what is the best set up in the master & slave and what make and size please
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never to old to learn
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one arm bandit
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« Reply #14 on: January 30, 2013, 08:17:18 PM » |
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well im using 3/4 masters for linked brakes and the clutch, then for the slave im looking at rover 600 or classic mini as they look good and the mounting holes are on the side oppose to land rover etc the mount from the front like the masters do, but they all work the same dave depends where your mounting it from, some mount them on the frame but im looking at mounting off the gear box/bell housing
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