BikerGran
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« Reply #30 on: November 12, 2018, 10:38:31 AM » |
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just for something to do, I charged the battery, just been out and about on it, and its fine ?? lights are great, bike ran great, wonder if the alternator is not quite chucking enough charge into the battery.
Loose connection somewhere? Intermittent faults are the worst!
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You don't stop havin fun because you get old - you get old if you stop havin fun!
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the coppersmith
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« Reply #31 on: November 12, 2018, 05:19:00 PM » |
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been fussing, the alternator seems to be kicking out 11.26 volts. Then you blip it and it chucks out 13.4 volts. But it needs a few revs to get it going, then its fine. Time to stop poodling around on it then ![Grin](http://mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/forum/Smileys/default/grin.gif)
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stinkey
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I can't stop building stuff ?,but I'm slowing down
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« Reply #32 on: November 12, 2018, 05:20:36 PM » |
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And do what? Push it about again? Oh no! ![Shocked](http://mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/forum/Smileys/default/shocked.gif)
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Backyard hotrodder,learnt by mistake,still learning ?
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BikerGran
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« Reply #33 on: November 12, 2018, 05:44:12 PM » |
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No, rag the arse off it! ![Grin](http://mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/forum/Smileys/default/grin.gif)
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You don't stop havin fun because you get old - you get old if you stop havin fun!
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #34 on: November 12, 2018, 07:17:43 PM » |
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Sound advice! ![Smiley](http://mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/forum/Smileys/default/smiley.gif)
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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morrag
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« Reply #35 on: November 12, 2018, 08:09:50 PM » |
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11.26v at 'tick-over' speed is insufficient to keep your battery fully charged, hence the miss fires. At a tick-over speed of possibly nom. 800 rpm, you should be developing in excess of 13V dc, progressing to 14.5v dc, at 5000rpm plus, all voltages/RPM's nominal, of course, anything much over 15v will destroy your battery, and would generally indicate a knackered Reg./ Rect. unit anyway. If Mr.M can find the original data sheets for the PMA system you have fitted, you can then be more specific with the figures, but you should not need to screw the motor just to get a sufficient charge rate, that's why we abandoned Dynamos ![Wink](http://mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/forum/Smileys/default/wink.gif) ...Morrag
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stinkey
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I can't stop building stuff ?,but I'm slowing down
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« Reply #36 on: November 12, 2018, 08:12:16 PM » |
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Nice bit of advice Mr Morrag..even I understood it ![Grin](http://mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/forum/Smileys/default/grin.gif)
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Backyard hotrodder,learnt by mistake,still learning ?
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Tony oily bike
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« Reply #37 on: November 12, 2018, 10:37:53 PM » |
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There's nowt as light as a hole, so add lightness.
Our lady of blessed acceleration, don't fail me now! - Elwood Blues
Nitro doesn't add power, it multiplies it! Bob Loux, running 10.07 secs @138mph on a 650 normally aspirated Triumph drag bike in 1965!
"Incontinence Hotline" - please hold.
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minimutly
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« Reply #38 on: November 12, 2018, 10:54:48 PM » |
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Old yamahas never charged the battery under 1300 rpm - your pmg unit might be different, but it doesn't sound like it. My xj needs 1300 rpm...
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morrag
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« Reply #39 on: November 12, 2018, 11:59:42 PM » |
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That's the reason for a change to a PMA device, over the previous separately excited type of alternator, and which will certainly charge in excess of 13v dc from relatively low RPM! The outline values I have given, whilst not particular to this machine, are certainly, as a general application, a fact, and as such obtainable. Indeed for trouble free use, this is what should be aimed for, ![Wink](http://mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/forum/Smileys/default/wink.gif) ..Morrag
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Olds
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« Reply #40 on: November 13, 2018, 06:19:13 AM » |
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For some reason my trike is exactly the same. On start up ign./charge light stays on until the engine is blip'd or reaches about 2000 revs then it's fine even at tickover (13.6v) so have never worried about it. I've never measured the output voltage at higher rpm but seeing as I've knackered a couple of batteries perhaps I should.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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morrag
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« Reply #41 on: November 13, 2018, 01:34:50 PM » |
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That's usually the case if you have a servo/electric voltage regulator in circuit, as opposed to fully solid state, unlikely in your case, I would guess, Dave, but worth checking, as is the over voltage control settings if you are going through batteries. What size/type of battery do you use?... Morrag
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the coppersmith
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« Reply #43 on: December 14, 2018, 07:14:34 PM » |
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Frog update: well its idle in the cave at present. I have put it on sorn, getting a tad chilly for my old bones. Lat trip of the year I rode it to Bude and back 85 miles of lovely Devon roads. Got about 20 miles away from home on the return trip and noticed the smell !! Oil leak returned from cam oil seal. Drips on to the casing and the exhaust and stinks. Plus it gets on your boot, your jeans, your socks and on my nerves !!. A quick wipe with some bracken leaves and carried on home gingerly. At least my left boot or my left ankle will go rusty, long story shortened. The seal failed again. Asked advice of experts, need a silicone one, they are orange in colour. Bearing shop had them on the shelf !! Then I had a message from a XS650 guru, pointing me to a Dutch builder, power of the internet kicks in and 3 days later I have a genuine Yamaha oil seal. Noticed that it is a lot thicker, a lot more flexible and is double lipped. So over the next month or so I will try again. Love the bike, people pass good comments. Roll on spring
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