Manky Monkey
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« Reply #810 on: October 14, 2015, 07:01:52 PM » |
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The engine mounting plates fitted with a little adjustment, so now I'm making the top ones. The original Yam' head steady's an immensely complicated affair, made of 6 pieces that bolt together. Without it, the engine shakes a fair bit though, so I'll make a much simpler 2 piece version. I've cut the bottom sections from 3mm angle & just need to make the top bit, then weld them together.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #811 on: October 14, 2015, 07:12:37 PM » |
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I know I've asked this before, but need to check again -the bike came with aftermarket electronic ignition, which replaces the points. There's a pick-up mounted where the points used to be & it's got a slightly more modern twin lead coil.
I've also got this little red box of tricks. It all worked when I bought the bike, but there were all sorts of dodgy connections & wires not doing anything, so I ripped the lot out & just kept the components. I also had a box of spare parts though, so now I'm not sure what I need & what I don't.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #812 on: October 14, 2015, 07:19:29 PM » |
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I've got the original Yamaha CDI unit, but not sure if I need that too? (I'm a Postie, not a vehicle electrician). It has a finned casing to help it cool & happens to have exactly the same bolt pattern as the fusebox in my 'leccy box, so I've bolted the 2 together for now, with the CDI hanging in the airflow under the box.
Not needed? The red Boyer unit doesn't have any mounts on it, but I could attach it to the underside of the box lid or the inside of a side panel with Velcro, with a multi pin plug for the wiring.
So I've got wires from the points/pick-up unit & from the alternator & from the coil -what connects to what?
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« Last Edit: October 14, 2015, 07:21:02 PM by Manky Monkey »
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BikerGran
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« Reply #813 on: October 14, 2015, 07:57:45 PM » |
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Why not just contact Boyer Bransden, send them the pic, and ask them? They do instruction sheets spo you only need to know which unit you have and you can get all the gen! http://www.boyerbransden.com/instructions.htmlThey're not the best for nothing! |
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You don't stop havin fun because you get old - you get old if you stop havin fun!
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #814 on: October 14, 2015, 08:26:34 PM » |
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Ahh, didn't know they were even still going Bobbi. Thanks.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #815 on: October 14, 2015, 10:17:43 PM » |
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O.K, looks like I don't need the CDI unit, just the Boyer red box. They recommend fixing with a cable tie or tape -very high tech  |
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goose
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« Reply #816 on: October 15, 2015, 09:51:20 AM » |
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if you need and heavy grip velcro mm i can supply you with loads and keep it neater . goose ..
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #817 on: October 15, 2015, 05:08:47 PM » |
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Now you tell me! Bought a square of black self adhesive Velcro from Ebay last night.  Nothing to show today, but lots of measuring up, buying bolts etc, then sorting a few small jobs out for the bike at Loony's workshop. After spending so long working on my truck, it's nice to work on something different for a few days.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Tony oily bike
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« Reply #818 on: October 16, 2015, 09:06:30 AM » |
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Why not just contact Boyer Bransden, send them the pic, and ask them? They do instruction sheets spo you only need to know which unit you have and you can get all the gen! http://www.boyerbransden.com/instructions.htmlThey're not the best for nothing! The guys at Boyer have been very helpful to me in the past when I had problems with a Lucas system and was seeking a Boyer replacement for an XS650, so much so that they told me how to fix the system I had (it all related to in-series coils, which I replaced with a single 12V dual output Dynacoil) The good thing with your Boyer is that the unit will still operate if the battery voltage drops a little, where as a Lucas system can simply stop operating. Its quite common for the original (40 yr old) XS650 coils to breakdown when they get hot (from the engine), stopping the sparks. Once they've cooled, they get going again. With your newer dual-output coil you'll hopefully avoid this, though it could be worth checking the coils impedance is matched to the Boyer box of tricks. |
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« Last Edit: October 16, 2015, 09:09:01 AM by Tony oily bike »
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There's nowt as light as a hole, so add lightness.
Our lady of blessed acceleration, don't fail me now! - Elwood Blues
Nitro doesn't add power, it multiplies it! Bob Loux, running 10.07 secs @138mph on a 650 normally aspirated Triumph drag bike in 1965!
"Incontinence Hotline" - please hold.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #819 on: October 16, 2015, 09:11:18 AM » |
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Thanks Tony. It seemed to work when I bought the bike but I couldn't ride it cos it had no chain or brakes! -still hasn't. Like the rest of the engine, I think I'll hook it all up & see what happens, rather than tearing it apart if I don't need to.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #820 on: October 16, 2015, 08:32:09 PM » |
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Working in a rented lock-up garage across town from Loony's workshop means constantly traipsing back & forth for even the simplest of jobs. I go to fit something, find the bolt's too long or short, have to go across town, which can take half an hour of sitting in traffic sometimes, 2 minutes in the workshop, then back again. Or I have to go & buy a couple of bolts or a clip or whatever -another hour gone.
So getting there slowly, but everything's taking far longer than it should. No front end on the bike at the moment, but at some point soon I need to turn it around to work on the other side.
A couple of bits made up in Loon's workshop this evening. I'll have to wait till tomorrow to see if they fit.
Modified side panel, (one of the mounting holes didn't line up properly). The notch in it's for the chain. When the bike was at my brother's workshop we cut the notch out & raised it to give more clearance for the chainguard.
Headsteady brackets cut & welded together. Tom, (one of the regulars at Loon's workshop), bought his from a company in the States. Lazer cut & very nice, but 50 quid a pair. Mine cost me a fiver for a length of angle iron from B & Q.
Rear mudguard mount, modified to clear the rear brake caliper, I hope.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #821 on: October 17, 2015, 06:50:50 PM » |
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Everything seems to fit, which is nice. I'm quite enjoying taking a short break from the truck to tinker with this. Mainly nuts & bolts stuff & far simpler than a full car build. Rear mudguard strut clears the brake caliper -trimming 3" off the guard meant the strut moved forward so I had to cut & re-weld it. Not sure how it'll work out when I adjust the chain though -I may add a spring loaded tensioner sprocket under the chain at a later date. The rear strut now follows the back edge of the caliper mount & the front one follows the edge of the caliper itself, so hopefully it looks like I meant it that way. |
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #822 on: October 17, 2015, 06:55:28 PM » |
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Headsteady brackets also fit. When I bought the bike the head bolts were sheared off in the ali' casting. My brother bored them out for me, but they need a small file running through them to clearance the bolts.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #823 on: October 17, 2015, 06:59:25 PM » |
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Side panel fits now too. After the discussion here I decided to go with black instead of green, but the left one needed the chainguard recess modifying, so I've rubbed the powder-coat back to key it for paint. I've notched the front edges of both panels for the HT leads to pass through, with a rubber grommet around them.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #824 on: October 17, 2015, 07:03:05 PM » |
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Lifting the chainguard to give more clearance over the rear sprocket meant the mounting hole didn't line up with the stud welded on the frame any more, (I'd slotted the hole to allow for chain adjustment). The guard's made from another length of B & Q angle iron.
Headlining panel for my truck in the background.
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« Last Edit: October 17, 2015, 07:09:52 PM by Manky Monkey »
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