May 18, 2024, 12:05:34 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Manky Monkey Motors Merchandise now available Cool Items at cool prices http://www.mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/merchandise.html
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Gallery Login Register  
Pages: 1 ... 14 15 [16] 17 18 ... 43
  Print  
Author Topic: dobbers trike  (Read 164942 times)
dobber
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 20
Posts: 1494



« Reply #225 on: November 07, 2011, 12:37:47 PM »

dont recall seeing a center bolt when i stripped the reliant.  know what you mean mike, like the old escorts etc... had a bolt through the springs to hold the leaves together then the bolt head sat in  a hole on the plate welded on the axle.
Logged

no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
nabsim
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 51
Posts: 1539



WWW
« Reply #226 on: November 07, 2011, 02:06:01 PM »

sorry to keep pinching your thread dobber but it may be useful to you to

If I am using the original spring plates on the axle tubes as one of the frame attachment points is this sufficient then? I know the axle tubes wont be able to turn but is that going to hold the diff as well?
Logged

zakboy
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 179
Posts: 5296



« Reply #227 on: November 07, 2011, 02:41:31 PM »

no prob, nabsim,that will hold.....yes sorry for taking over your thread dobber  Smiley
Logged

Give me the strength to except the things in life i can not change
dobber
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 20
Posts: 1494



« Reply #228 on: November 07, 2011, 04:09:07 PM »

all info graciously absorbed.
               if the spring plate is still welded to the axle and the trike chassis bolted or welded to that ,then i would concure with zakboy that its plenty strong enough.
I was going to try use the plate origionally on mine but the angle was wrong. It meant the diff would be pointing upward and i needed it straight. but could have put steel spacers or done something to the chassis to make it line up straight.
       moving on, when i line the axle center up with the gearbox would a lazer sat behind the axle running down the center of the diff, middle of the prop and onto the gearbox end work?
Logged

no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
steve brock
Sr. Member
****

Karma: 8
Posts: 384



« Reply #229 on: November 07, 2011, 04:22:37 PM »

sorry to keep pinching your thread dobber but it may be useful to you to

If I am using the original spring plates on the axle tubes as one of the frame attachment points is this sufficient then? I know the axle tubes wont be able to turn but is that going to hold the diff as well?
Are you stressing the axle mounting it like that? The tubes are quite thin into the diff housing I'd be worried !
Logged

Steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with..
RODeo
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 21
Posts: 879


« Reply #230 on: November 07, 2011, 05:01:21 PM »

I may not be understanding whats being said here,but surely its mounted in the car on those perches ,so should be ok?
Logged
zakboy
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 179
Posts: 5296



« Reply #231 on: November 07, 2011, 05:25:31 PM »

all info graciously absorbed.
               if the spring plate is still welded to the axle and the trike chassis bolted or welded to that ,then i would concure with zakboy that its plenty strong enough.
I was going to try use the plate origionally on mine but the angle was wrong. It meant the diff would be pointing upward and i needed it straight. but could have put steel spacers or done something to the chassis to make it line up straight.
       moving on, when i line the axle center up with the gearbox would a lazer sat behind the axle running down the center of the diff, middle of the prop and onto the gearbox end work?
Think the laser will do the job just fine Dobber the fin or rib on top of the diff will be the center of the axle if i remmember correctly....... presuming every thing else is running straight through to center of your front wheel when straight
« Last Edit: November 07, 2011, 05:34:18 PM by zakboy » Logged

Give me the strength to except the things in life i can not change
steve brock
Sr. Member
****

Karma: 8
Posts: 384



« Reply #232 on: November 07, 2011, 05:32:26 PM »

I may not be understanding whats being said here,but surely its mounted in the car on those perches ,so should be ok?

Hardtail?
Logged

Steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with..
zakboy
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 179
Posts: 5296



« Reply #233 on: November 07, 2011, 05:37:35 PM »

i think steve has a point on a hard tail trike it will be prone to a little more stress unlike the car witch has the springs to absorb some of the stress
Logged

Give me the strength to except the things in life i can not change
andyrennison
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 44
Posts: 1714



WWW
« Reply #234 on: November 07, 2011, 06:29:52 PM »

Ive been drawing and redrawing my design for weeks now, softail and hardtail. 

One thing is sure, the neared to the wheel you can get a fix, the less leverage there will be on the shaft end at the diff. 

The diff should not be experiencing much vertical strain at all when you go over a bump if the load on the axle is transmitted to a fixing vey near to the wheel. As far as i can see, the fixing from the frame to the axle will become a fulcrum, so an upward load from hitting a bump will translate into a downward load at the diff, and vise versa.

There is no reason on a hard tail that the tube ends at the diff can't also be attached to the frame is there?  From what I have seen this is just overkill though.

This is, if I recall my school days aghem..... a long time ago.. a couple.  And as we were taught, "Every couple has its moments"  Wink
Logged

Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle,
and the life of the candle will not be shortened.
Happiness never decreases by being shared
steve brock
Sr. Member
****

Karma: 8
Posts: 384



« Reply #235 on: November 07, 2011, 06:48:24 PM »

I have over 7 inches each side clamping the axle tube after the spring bracket thingy i want no movement at all.. I also wanted a good few inches to weld my frame to as I have the same as mr manky. Ever considered the weight of the diff bouncing up and down full of oil if it's supported only at the wheel end? Ummm rhino trikes also mentioned loads of trikes snapping half shafts and the tubes cracking the diff housing all scary stuff... Copy a tried design that works my two cents Smiley be safe...
Logged

Steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with..
zakboy
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 179
Posts: 5296



« Reply #236 on: November 07, 2011, 06:56:22 PM »

I like a bit of over kill,i believe rhino, remake the tubes on there reliant axle,s with thicker wall tube
Logged

Give me the strength to except the things in life i can not change
andyrennison
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 44
Posts: 1714



WWW
« Reply #237 on: November 07, 2011, 06:57:57 PM »

Steve, that's a good point.  Would that not be the same for the original reliant, which was fixed to the chassis by the springs and the shock slighly inwards from that?

Maybe someone knows enough maths to work this out. I don't Smiley
Logged

Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle,
and the life of the candle will not be shortened.
Happiness never decreases by being shared
steve brock
Sr. Member
****

Karma: 8
Posts: 384



« Reply #238 on: November 07, 2011, 07:04:03 PM »

Maths....AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Logged

Steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with..
one arm bandit
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 50
Posts: 1343



« Reply #239 on: November 07, 2011, 07:40:01 PM »

i do its somthing like a=c+9% of b/2   bacically make it as tough as you can Grin
Logged
Pages: 1 ... 14 15 [16] 17 18 ... 43
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!