Manky's Pop.

[Tony oily bike]

That should compliment the lines pretty well.

Here's an idea for inside-the-cab badges:

Take one of these (see photo)

[Tony oily bike]

Take it to the workshop and technically modify like this

[Tony oily bike]

Continue the modification process to end up with this

[Tony oily bike]

Clever huh! ? !        

So where did I get this incredible idea from - see picture below    

[steven brock]

A volksmanky..

[Cabman77]

The Real Beasty Boys??

[Manky Monkey]

 
Hardly important I know, but while Loony was busy painting this afternoon & Chris was welding his Moggy Minor, I pottered at the workbench with the swage line letter thingy.
I can weld, but haven't for 5 or 6 years & it's just easier to shove stuff in front of Loony to do. Chris MIG'd this together for me today though, then I cleaned it up with the trusty handfile.
The "swage" is actually made from half round bar left over from the tailgate handle, with the curved ends bent around a welding gas bottle. I've already drilled a series of holes in the cab. The bar will be welded through these from inside the cab to try & keep the lines tidy outside. Once the edges are smoothed in with filler or lead & it's painted along with the rest of the body, it should look like a factory pressed panel. 

[Olds]

A very neat and subtle touch 

[Manky Monkey]

Thank you. Don't want to over-badge the thing & clutter it up, but after Chewie posted the Mercury grille badge that was on Aussie Ebay, I just liked the idea. There's a joint in the cab back panels right along the line of the swage, so this should hide it.
Back to the doors tomorrow, which are slightly more important.

[triker_Chewie]

looks great! subtle

[The North]

 Its looking good, the details make the car/ truck bike whatever  complete,  you are finnishing this ow and i like it more all the time.

[Manky Monkey]

Young Master Loon was doing some paintwork this afternoon, so I couldn't work on the driver's door & I need the repair piece welded into the passenger door before I can do much about the new latch.
So I spent my hour or 2 at the 'shop after work today messing with the A pillar repair panel. I bought a pair of these from Pop Browns ages ago as the bottom of the door posts were pretty rotten. Had to cut them down a bit as we're not running standard bodywork, but should do the trick. Pops normally have inner arches, ("flitch" panels), with wide sweeping wings bolted over the top that curve from the sides of the grille shell back to the bottom of the door. Pattern parts like these are notorious for their bad fit & I had to bash this one about a bit with a panel beating hammer, but near enough now. Taped in place ready for welding.
We plan to run an inch deep sill panel along under the door, shaped to the contour of the door skin, (standard Pops use a straight sill). So I've left this repair piece an inch lower than the door. The sill will tie it into the bodywork at the other end of the door.
I might fill in those semi circular cut outs above the exhausts.

[Manky Monkey]

Again, not much to show, but I've cut the same latch section out of the driver's door & cut a repair piece from a spare door to replace it.
Hopefully Loony's got some time free tomorrow afternoon to weld a few bits in place for me.

[poprodder]

might be of some help andy.

http://www.hotrodphotos.co.uk/bearclawlatches.htm

[Manky Monkey]

Yup, Brock emailed me the same link!
I've read that before but couldn't remember where. Looks like the way to go as we'll be able to retain the interior handles too.
Finished work very late today, (less than a week to go till Christmas so everyone's panic buying online & I'm delivering it all). So just called at the workshop for a quick chat on my way home.
I've left Loony a list of bits to weld. Also had a look at the curved panel above the exhausts. Never been happy with the 2 notches out of it to clear the header pipes. The 2 banks of cylinders in the Rover V8 are actually staggered -one side's further forward than the other. So there's less clearance between the pipes & bodywork on one side of the truck than the other. I also think it looks a bit ...flangey -it looks like what it is. A flat mating surface to bolt the original front wings to. I've decided to trim the panel back further, (marked here in white Tippex pen), & radius the bottom corner. That should make it appear a bit more intentional rather than just like we've left some bits of bodywork off. We'll finish the cut edge with a length of 6 or 8mm round rod to form a beaded edge.