shadowryder
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Posts: 35
GROWING OLD IS INEVITABLE-GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL!!
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« on: January 29, 2014, 08:57:21 PM » |
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As the title sez!! I got honda shadow trike swingarm reliant axle drum brakes,the back brakes have been constantly sh!te since I got it converted back in 2010. I have done bike m/cylinder,I have done car M/cylinder god knows how many different pedal/cylinder linkages and pipe convigurations and every year I just about scrape through the MOT.But rest of the year I run around with only a front brake and handbrake. SO if anyone can tell me how to get me back brakes to work without spending 200 nicker on a disc conversionPLEASE do tell me!!!!!!!! would be very grateful for any advice. heres the beast in question.
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scannerzer
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« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2014, 09:03:03 PM » |
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is it a hydraulic problem or could it be a hard brake lining/poor material,are yours the old sliding cylinders and if so are they sliding. very nice trike by the way
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spanners
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« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2014, 09:39:46 PM » |
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what part of the country are you in ,,
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LIVE FAST and DIE YOUNG,, past 50 AND STILL HERE NOW. WAITING. FOR. THE. GRIM. REAPER
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kapri
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« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2014, 09:43:45 PM » |
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Can you be a bit more specific as to the particular flavour of 's**te' ? Are they too stiff to push with little travel , too little results when you brake etc.? What m/c bore and pedal ratio are you currently running? Also have they checked the handbrake at MOT time and how is that efficiency?
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Olds
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« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2014, 09:46:26 PM » |
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You don't say what ratio brake lever you are using or master cylinder bore. I think that most bike pedals are about 4:1. Car ones, tend to be 6:1 or more. This gives 50 per cent greater leverage and a corresponding higher line pressure. I have a pedal ratio of just under 6:1, with a 5/8" master cylinder and can lock the rear wheels without too much effort.
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« Last Edit: January 30, 2014, 08:09:04 AM by Old Newbie »
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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minimutly
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« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2014, 09:55:57 PM » |
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I assume you've turned the axle over? Of course you have. Did you then reverse the backplates? You need to have the bleed nipple at the top of the cylinder, there may be other ways of ensuring this (just swapping cylinders?). I'm no expert on reliant rear brakes but they are essentially very simple, and similar to mini rears, you might find mini cylinders slot in, in which case you have a wealth of selection of sizes. Let us know how you get on. Huw
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shadowryder
Jr. Member
Karma: 3
Posts: 35
GROWING OLD IS INEVITABLE-GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL!!
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« Reply #7 on: January 29, 2014, 09:59:52 PM » |
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I personally think its more to hydaulics than owt else my present master cylinder is off a pan european with reliant slave cylinders on the drums,but I have also tried a "leyland" Mini type master cylinder, I struggle like fucg to get any pressure when trying to bleed the system,and what little pressure I do occasionally manage barely works the brakes.and it gets scary when that front wheel locks up. Spanners I,m in North Wales Kapri,I,m getting full travel on the pedal to the master cyl pistonI.E its pushing in far as it will go.dunno wot size bores etc that stuff baffles me. O,N, Ratio aint got a clue but I just welded an extra inch on the lower side of me pedal cos someone sez it might help but trying to bleed the brakes I cannot get any pressure. Terry thanks for the info mate but I cannot afford them nice as they look if,n I was gonna spend that money I,d go the whole hog n do a disc job on it.
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shadowryder
Jr. Member
Karma: 3
Posts: 35
GROWING OLD IS INEVITABLE-GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL!!
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« Reply #8 on: January 29, 2014, 10:03:41 PM » |
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axle has been flipped slave cylinders are at the botton of the plate on each side,one prob I think I may have is that master cylinder is mounted lower than slave cylinders.
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terry t
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« Reply #9 on: January 29, 2014, 10:11:47 PM » |
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The axle don't need turning over for the Hondas drive rotation is the same as a reliant
Have you tried reverse bleeding through the brake nipple using a syringe, or pressure bleed ezi bleed do one connect up and us the air from a spare wheel to pressure it up
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minimutly
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« Reply #10 on: January 29, 2014, 10:15:21 PM » |
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Runback is a common problem with caterham type kit cars, I've read there is a valve you can fit to prevent fluid running back into master cyl. Carbuildingsolutions.com Please make sure the bleeder is at the top of the slaves. If long travel is the problem you need a larger master. Huw
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shadowryder
Jr. Member
Karma: 3
Posts: 35
GROWING OLD IS INEVITABLE-GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL!!
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« Reply #11 on: January 29, 2014, 10:26:01 PM » |
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was just assuming with the axle it was done by a profesional company I dont know. Not sure what you mean by bleed nipple on top, cylinder is at bottom of plate and nipple/pipe are side by side at the bottom of the back plate. are these what you mean, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161014735163?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
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« Last Edit: January 29, 2014, 10:29:29 PM by shadowryder »
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terry t
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« Reply #12 on: January 29, 2014, 10:32:51 PM » |
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Olds
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« Reply #13 on: January 29, 2014, 10:37:09 PM » |
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Pan European has a single rear disc. This requires very little fluid movement to work correctly. The Reliant slaves will require much more fluid. The fitting of a residual pressure valve mounted close to the master is always a good idea if the master cylinder is lower or a similar height to the slave cylinders to prevent bleed back.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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