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Author Topic: swing arm pivots  (Read 16783 times)
steven brock
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« Reply #15 on: October 11, 2012, 06:42:41 PM »

Could you use a bearing pillow block .. Ummm
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ROD
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« Reply #16 on: October 12, 2012, 04:07:22 PM »

Maybe they could be used if the swingarm pivoted on a single bolt that runs across the car,but mine have seperate bolts .
 Well I decided on using 22mm i.d. oilite bushes for the pivots. Found the bushes,(simply bearings) but couldnt find proper High Tensile 10 (or 12) grade bolts from a supplier who would sell me a small amount(4 off). I then dropped the bush size to 20mm id and after a lot more searching have hopefully found the correct HT grade of bolts.Using the old method of twice the diam of the bolt +6mm,gives the approximate thread length,Im hoping the bolts Ive found have the correct 'shank' length ,so that the bush wont sit on the threaded part.
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morrag
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« Reply #17 on: October 12, 2012, 04:53:38 PM »

Rod, if you are going to use oilite then you need to reconsider the pins, as they have to be a machined or ground finish, be a good "Fit" as you should not ream Oilite as it closes the surface 'grain'. If you were using synthetic bearings or 'Silentblocs' well its not then a prob. as you are merely bolting up tight, Morrag
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ROD
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« Reply #18 on: October 12, 2012, 06:37:33 PM »

Thats a good point Morrag! So what do you mean by 'synthetic'? As in polybush type? I can only find them for bolts up to 12mm,and I think they should be larger diam.bolts.P'raps Im looking too far in to this (as usual!)but I think theres going to be a lot of side ways movement on the bushes (ie push/pull of the arm) as the chain takes up the strain,whereas I reckon your shaft drive rearend is going to have a different set of forces applied to the bushes.
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morrag
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« Reply #19 on: October 12, 2012, 07:20:08 PM »

Personally I don't see silentblocs a problem, but whatever type of bush you use, other than rubber in shear, or similar, the pin to bush "fit" will need to be good. By synthetic, I was referring to 'Delryn' or similar, which can be machined from solid, so any size and combination is possible. If you use metal bushes then you should line ream them to the pin size and fit
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morrag
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« Reply #20 on: October 12, 2012, 07:36:07 PM »

Rod, I may have mentioned this before, but check out and old style "Dry" mini rear suspension as its pretty much what you seem to be after. They use 20mm,( act. 3/4" in "Christian" units!!),bore bronze bushes, and long, EN8 pins to spread the load and provide positive location. The whole arm may be transferable to your project. Another route may be a "CV rear suspension arm, reversed to fall along the centre line of your chassis, might be worth a "lookin'at"............ Huh Huh Huh Huh ???Morrag
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ROD
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« Reply #21 on: October 13, 2012, 06:13:23 AM »

Im not using single sided arm Morrag.
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Olds
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« Reply #22 on: October 13, 2012, 09:52:27 AM »

Rather than use bolts , have you thought about using ground stock bar? Pillow block bearings should be available in self aligning form.
Unless your frame and swing arm are really accurate and flex free i feel either line reaming, self aligning or bearings with some flex will be required.
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steven brock
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« Reply #23 on: October 13, 2012, 04:55:58 PM »

Is this a mini suspension knuckle?
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ROD
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« Reply #24 on: October 13, 2012, 08:11:14 PM »

Huh?
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v8dodger
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« Reply #25 on: October 13, 2012, 08:15:47 PM »

im not sold on my swing arm points being strong, so getting that engineer chap to make me some bits up as id like to us two  tapered roller bearings sid by side on both sides, i feel this for me this is  is the way to go.  Smiley thats just me
two bearings side by side is not going to add any more strength than one.......... if its the bolt though the middle that go's
not saying it will work zac but going to try first and see Smiley
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zakboy
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« Reply #26 on: October 13, 2012, 08:20:03 PM »

You have to go with what ever you feel happy and confident with v8  Smiley
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ROD
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« Reply #27 on: October 14, 2012, 07:13:13 AM »

Yes I agree Zakboy. I realise that the rod ends are your choice of 'weapon' and they do work,as you have definitely proved ,but I just feel that they are being asked an awful lot of in the swing arm situation. When I look at them insitu,I feel that they must be 'on the limit' of their ability,but thats definitely only my humble opinion.
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nabsim
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« Reply #28 on: October 14, 2012, 08:39:51 AM »

Sorry Rod I don't want to derail your thread but want to put something about rod ends. On a swing arm you only have a hole a bolt goes through or you have studs holding it on yes? With Zacs method you have the same thing but done differently, I am missing what people are seeing here I think, I can't see a difference so long as it is all set up okay. Sorry for the detour Smiley
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zakboy
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« Reply #29 on: October 14, 2012, 08:45:12 AM »

Yes I agree Zakboy. I realise that the rod ends are your choice of 'weapon' and they do work,as you have definitely proved ,but I just feel that they are being asked an awful lot of in the swing arm situation. When I look at them insitu,I feel that they must be 'on the limit' of their ability,but thats definitely only my humble opinion.
you realy need to do your home work on bearrings and rod end's or any thing else you may be thinking of using, read there load specs find out there draw backs
THE INFORMATION IS OUT THERE, theres rose joint and theres rose joints i use only top grade rose joint the best there is they are no wear near there limit you don't go by the way somthing looks thats no test, read the Radial Static Load Specification of top grade rose joints there aerospace grade  Angry i dont use £4 low grade joints joints
« Last Edit: October 14, 2012, 08:52:46 AM by zakboy » Logged

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