archiebrown
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« on: June 07, 2012, 12:01:33 PM » |
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Any suggestions guys? I finished the wiring project and everything works but She won't start on the key.
If I short accross the terminals of the solenoid she starts and runs. Fitted a new Solenoid and checked all the fuses, I can't find anything that I might have forgotten to connect. I am at a loss of where to try next.
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"Too old to die young"-The Big Yin
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skiprat
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« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2012, 12:15:46 PM » |
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Hi sorry Im not aware what your build is, but the problem will be the wiring connections at the ignition
from what you say you have a turnkey start ignition, Im assuming that when you turn it to start your starter cranks over but wont fire??, however with the key in just the on position, you can short the solenoid, motor cranks and runs
you need to buzz it all out and check it, whats happening is that when you turn the key your supplying power to the solenoid, but taking power from the ignition
what you will find on your barrel is that you have a battery connection, thats power in, then what you need to check with a DVM on continuity test, is that you have a circuit thru from battery to your ignition when the key is in start position
some boat ones do this, but the ones from VWP are fine
you end up with power in, to the Batt connection, then live coming out of acc or ign connection, and when you turn it to start position, it will stay supplying power to the ign output, as well as the momentary supply to the starter
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« Last Edit: June 07, 2012, 12:18:24 PM by skiprat »
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spanners
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« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2012, 01:09:53 PM » |
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just a thought is the body of the selonoid ,earthed ,,,
some earth through the starter windings but some need to be ,earthed ,, i.e fastened to something metal that is earthed ,,
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LIVE FAST and DIE YOUNG,, past 50 AND STILL HERE NOW. WAITING. FOR. THE. GRIM. REAPER
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ROD
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« Reply #3 on: June 07, 2012, 02:42:04 PM » |
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Ive recently had my solenoid sticking,preventing it throwing in the connector. ...just an idea,but Skiprat is probably correct.
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tbone
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« Reply #4 on: June 07, 2012, 05:42:49 PM » |
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Will need to know exactly what, if anything, happens with the key in the start position.
Is the coil live feed from the ignition switch or the fuse box?
Is the solenoid pulling in (clicking)?
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
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archiebrown
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« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2012, 08:04:47 AM » |
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Cheers Guys,
The build is a Reliant Trike I am refurbishing (Flying Dutchman), the coil is fed from the ignition switch.
With the ignition in the on position I get lights and everything else, I can start her by shorting across the terminals of the Solenoid, when in the start position I get nothing (no click). With the ignition off it turns over by shorting across the terminals but does not start, as I would expect. It has a new Solenoid, Alternator and Ignition Switch and new wires between ignition and solenoid.
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"Too old to die young"-The Big Yin
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one arm bandit
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« Reply #6 on: June 08, 2012, 09:39:44 AM » |
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may sound really daft and im sure you will have checked a thousand times,but is the solinoid feed from the st terminal on the ignition switch?? i have the same type of switch st= starter with inline fuse acc= fuse board ign= coil bat=battery live feed the live fuse is also fed off this for hazzards
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tbone
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« Reply #7 on: June 08, 2012, 11:13:47 AM » |
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Wot he said  (now there should be an upward pointing arrow here, but I aint clever enough to do that). No clicking = No feed to the solenoid from the switch In the start position the switch feeds the soleniod to activate it, which in turn, feeds the starter motor. When the switch is returned to the `run` or `on` position, the solenoid is no longer being fed and stops, and so does the starter. |
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
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nabsim
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« Reply #8 on: June 08, 2012, 12:39:20 PM » |
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Does it need the oil light/ammeter in line before it will start off the key Tbone?
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tbone
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« Reply #9 on: June 08, 2012, 01:05:11 PM » |
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Hi Nabs, the simple answer is no.
Both the oil pressure warning light and ammeter are accessories and not connected to the running of the engine or the starting process.
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
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spanners
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« Reply #10 on: June 08, 2012, 01:12:08 PM » |
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why not take a spare lenth of wire ,, connect it to the ,trigger,, terminal of the solonoid (small ,lucar,, spade,,) and touch the other end to + live ,, if the solonoid ,clicks, in and the starter turns it will rule out a solonoid fault ,,
then find the triggers wire from the ignition /start switch and connect a test light or meter and turn the key to the start position if it doesnt light ,,or show on the meter ,, then the fault is with the ,start/ign switch ..
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LIVE FAST and DIE YOUNG,, past 50 AND STILL HERE NOW. WAITING. FOR. THE. GRIM. REAPER
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steven brock
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« Reply #11 on: June 08, 2012, 06:11:02 PM » |
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You could always check if you have 2.1 gigawatts at the flux capacitor! that helped my friend Marty ...  |
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steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with!
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archiebrown
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« Reply #12 on: June 08, 2012, 06:49:18 PM » |
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You could always check if you have 2.1 gigawatts at the flux capacitor! that helped my friend Marty ... Now your talkin a foreign language |
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"Too old to die young"-The Big Yin
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archiebrown
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« Reply #14 on: June 08, 2012, 07:45:50 PM » |
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"Too old to die young"-The Big Yin
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