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Author Topic: dobbers trike  (Read 164972 times)
dobber
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« Reply #420 on: March 18, 2012, 12:06:24 PM »

tight but does nt foul any where
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
dobber
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« Reply #421 on: March 18, 2012, 12:08:24 PM »

made a bracket for the bottom, again using the rad rubber mount.
 now im late for work.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
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steve brock
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« Reply #422 on: March 18, 2012, 12:25:19 PM »

How you going to link thermostat to the top inlet?
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zakboy
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« Reply #423 on: March 18, 2012, 01:34:51 PM »

Are you going to be able get the fan on
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dobber
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« Reply #424 on: March 18, 2012, 05:21:57 PM »

fans gonna go on the other side and blow not suck, according to dan the fans rarely needed with his [same engine and rad]. 
the top hose i was going to cut the neck of the stat housing and reweld in the position best suited, also take the rad to wakey radiators and see if he can reposition the outlets but not 100% neccessary.
            whos gonna start the list of why i can not.  [like the whole build, do now think later]
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
dobber
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« Reply #425 on: March 18, 2012, 05:24:11 PM »

bit dim i know but does the top engine hose have to go to top of rad or  don't it matter as long as it flows through?
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one arm bandit
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« Reply #426 on: March 18, 2012, 05:30:17 PM »

yeah top to top, the old water pump would be sweating its pully off trying to force the water bottom upwards. i thought about cutting the neck of my thermo housing to get better positioning,i dont want to have to use the flexi hose stuff
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dobber
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« Reply #427 on: March 18, 2012, 05:36:44 PM »

thought bout cutting it then machine up a little sleeve to slot over both ends. could be extended then if needed.. did you check the color thing  bandit?
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
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one arm bandit
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« Reply #428 on: March 18, 2012, 05:52:53 PM »

i did yeah its near as dam it opposite to mine black frame bit brighter lime green tins. but to be onest i like it your way round green frame black tins go for it,it will look a totally different trike in paint compared to what youve been looking at the past few months. are you powder coating the frame?? i havnt and regret it abit now, so i will be, when i brake it down next winter as its already a few chips. Sad
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dobber
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« Reply #429 on: March 20, 2012, 07:19:14 PM »

been tolds its best if the pump outlet goes to the top of the rad. took the r6 one to the rad shop to get it adapted, as it happens the ally ones are hard to rework. ended up with a very similar size one  brand new and the guys putting the in, out and filler just where i want for 50 quid all in.
 also today got the front pully seal, collar thing, the most expensive metal per gram ever. really easy to do and seems to have worked.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #430 on: March 20, 2012, 09:28:05 PM »

I've not heard of a Speedi Sleeve -is it literally a sleeve around the pulley shaft to take up the difference between it & the rubber seal?
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RODeo
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« Reply #431 on: March 20, 2012, 09:54:00 PM »

Im not too sure on the Powder coat VS paint thing. Mines painted and has got chipped(very fishy Grin),dropped the spanner a few times! but its easier to add brackets etc then touch up?
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fifer
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« Reply #432 on: March 20, 2012, 10:46:59 PM »

Quote
Originally posted by Manky Monkey  ;
I've not heard of a Speedi Sleeve -is it literally a sleeve around the pulley shaft to take up the difference between it & the rubber seal?
Basically yes , but more to repair a Grooved / scored / worn Shaft .
Used on any shaft which has a seal running on it gearbox output etc
Download the PDF file on Speedi Sleeves from the link at my website
http://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintsandtips/specialist-parts-suppliers/directory-of-specialist-part-suppliers/speedisleeves

.
.
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dobber
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« Reply #433 on: March 20, 2012, 11:38:26 PM »

so simple m/m. took pully off, cleaned it with a brillo. grove was really plain to see but only when you properly look at it. bit of gasket sealer on then tap it on with a cup thing that comes with it. slackened bolts on timing cover, slot pully on .nip it all up. literally a 5 min job. cured it.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
steve brock
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« Reply #434 on: March 21, 2012, 06:35:39 PM »

cut down the pedal and welded back together. the clutch works, tested with starter motor putting it in gear but when pushing the pedal which is mounted to the frame which pulls the clutch arm the first bit of movement pulls the engine and box forward  10mm or more before working the clutch. could the pressure plate be buggered judging by the odd wear of the release bearing show in earlier photo compared to new one.
Are you using the other foot peddle on the other side ?
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