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Author Topic: Powder-coating  (Read 2920 times)
Clive
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« on: May 11, 2009, 05:52:57 PM »

Ooh, ooh, thought of another stupid one while i'm at it!!

Can only metal be powder-coated, or will it go over filler etc.

You'd think I'd know this as a painter..................................but don't!!!! Grin

Clive
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2009, 06:08:05 PM »

Hi Clive. Powder-coating is, as it says, a powder. It's applied by hanging the parts in a spray booth & adding an electrical charge. Then the powder's sprayed on & clings to the metal by static electricity. After that it's loaded into a drying oven & baked, turning the powder into a gel coating.
So obviously plain metal parts are best, but I've been told by the guys who do my trike frames that certain fillers will work. There's a few on the market that contain aluminum powder. Having said that though, my guys won't accept any filled items, just to be on the safe side.
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Clive
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« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2009, 06:29:45 PM »

So, to smooth the welds on something, it needs to be over-filled with weldy stuff, and filed away??

Clive
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tbone
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« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2009, 06:41:37 PM »

oh no, smooth welds!!!
Your safety is paramount. As i found out to my cost, there is an extremely fine line between smoothing a weld and filing the weld away. Whilst i am still of the opinion that you can happily smooth a weld, i would advise very strongly against trying to achieve the sort of smoothness that Mr M regulaly manages. When i say smooth a weld, i only mean evening it off, which, depending on what and how you are welding you wont need to do that often.
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brock
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« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2009, 06:48:47 PM »

 Wink
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2009, 10:42:51 PM »

A contentious issue obviously.  Smiley
I'd never recommend anyone to try unsafe workshop practices, (mainly cos I can't afford to get sued), but have filled in low spots with extra weld, then rounded them off with a sanding disc for a few years now, with no problems at all. However, it's my own bum in the saddle & I'm happy the welds are perfectly strong enough for their intended purpose. I don't sell frames or other parts commercially so can only show you my own personal projects. You're responsible for your own safety, (MMMotors get-out clause), so make your own decision.  Wink
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madron
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« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2009, 11:24:46 PM »

if you run one bead of weld dont touch it with a grinder but if you want a nice radius put two beads of weld down either side of the first weld slightly over lapping in the cetre and then use a flap wheel on your grinder it turns  out with a lovely radius to the join    well thats wot i do anyway
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ROD
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« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2009, 04:43:14 AM »

Just my 2p..............I like to see smooth welds,but I do mine with filler ,and altho' not compatible with powder coating,it is easier.Gonna paint my frame anyway. Im always very much aware of cutting the weld back too much. I want all the welds to show on my trike,so hoping to get a welder who is very neat!
   BTW in the past Ive filled welds on go karts etc ,and have noticed fine stress cracks in the filler as the joint possibly flexed.I painted a few frames light grey. I was told by an old guy (actually older than me!lol!)that frames on race cars back in the day (20's /30's?) were painted light grey. Cos this was the best colour to show up any stress cracks etc in the frames. Dunno whether this is correct tho'.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2009, 03:28:24 PM »

Taz's trike's going to be grey, so I'll keep an eye on it!  Smiley
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SteveRedd
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« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2009, 05:11:56 PM »

Desperate did an article on this in a recent mag....the aluminiun type filler is ok if it isn't put on too thick...he did it on his Indian trike
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ByzMax
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« Reply #10 on: June 24, 2009, 09:45:58 PM »

As has been said. Ali filler (Isopon metalik) is acceptable to some places but you need to have the frame shot blasted first then fill it. Then you send it to the powder coaters and tell em it's been blasted already. Ask first ans many won't do it


Not sure of you welding skills as Madron said Grinding and filing welds is fine just not the root weld.

Lay down your main weld so you have the strength and then lay more on top or either side. Beware though cos at some point it all looks the same and you will be grinding the root weld.

The best practice however is to practice.

If you prep the parts properly and have enough power in your welder and wire speed etc is set correctly (I assume your using Mig) then you should be able to get the weld flat enough to leave it be and it will look great.

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