Manky Monkey Motors

the following shows how i usually fix rear mudguards onto a trike. the only difference in this case is that they are fitted to the steel body rather than the axle. this is due to there only being a small gap between tyre and body.
the trike shown is "kingo's"
...................
firstly the bent treadplate fenders were reoved along with the rear seat. this showed up a badly rotted 20g steel section.
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fenders1.jpg)

so using top quality pattern makers card. i made a pattern of it
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fenders2.jpg)

before removing the rusted section and fabricating a new pice from 3mm plate.
this was stitch welded into place. now the fender mounts had something to hold on to.

next i started off with a pair of our own mudguards. fresh out of the mould.
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fenders3.jpg)

then 3  25mm holes were bored along one edge of each fender. this can be done with a holecutter bit, or in this case a unibit.
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fenders4.jpg)

then some erw was cut to length, this pipe measures 22mm internal. i also had some galvanvised pipe that measured 21mm external. so they were a nice slip in fit.
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fenders5.jpg)

3 of each of the larger lengths were bonded to the inside of each fender inline with the bored holes and at 90 degs to the edge.
these were held in place by sitting them on a bed of  fibreglass mixture comprising resin with a quantity of 6mm long cut strands. these can be purchased by weight. what you end up with is similar to p40 bridging filler. over each tube are 2 strips of 600 gr glass fibre matting. the tape is shown holding them in place as the resin sets.
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fenders6.jpg)

each bonded tube  then had a 7mm hole dilled into the side of it, and a 6mm nut welded in place
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fender65.jpg)

the galvanised tubes were cleaned of their coating and welded at 90 degs onto lengths of 30 x 6mm flat bar.
the intention was to drill and bolt these on. but after speaking to kingo, it was decided that they would be welded to the body.
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fenders7.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fenders8.jpg)

the completed brackets are then slid into the bonded tubes and the whole assembly offered up to the body and once set up are clamped into place. before welding the flat bar to the new 3mm plate.
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fenders10.jpg)

(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fenders12.jpg)

when welded the wheel/tyre is replaced and the fender moved along the tubes so that it covers the tyre by an equal amount both sides.
then a 3mm bit is inserted through the 6mm nut welded to the outer tubes and the inner tubes are marked by allowing the bit to bite into it.
the fender is removed and the holes are drilled out to 7mm.
the fender is then fitted and 20 x 6mm bolts are screwed into the nuts until they are tight,
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fender15.jpg)

all that remains then is to paint the fenders and in this case bore out 3 30mm holes. the 2 at the rear for the stop/tail and the indicator, and one at the front for a white marker light.
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fender14.jpg)
(http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m185/dracken1/fender13.jpg)

i always use this method to fix fenders weather they fixed to the body or move with the suspension.

Very tidy, look good  :)

very nice dracken top job  ;)