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Author Topic: Manky's Pop.  (Read 1565613 times)
spanners
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« Reply #4125 on: November 14, 2011, 09:36:05 PM »

is it charging now HuhHuh??
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LIVE FAST  and  DIE YOUNG,,  past 50 AND STILL HERE  NOW. WAITING. FOR. THE. GRIM. REAPER
Manky Monkey
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« Reply #4126 on: November 14, 2011, 09:40:39 PM »

Haven't changed the warning light yet Mike, so no, not yet.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
gazzagood
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« Reply #4127 on: November 14, 2011, 09:48:40 PM »

well done sir keep up the great work !!  Grin
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I always know what I'm doing. Can you help me
PLEASE
terry t
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« Reply #4128 on: November 22, 2011, 03:49:54 PM »

Alternator all cleaned up & refitted. Shortened brake pedal welded back together. Extra exhaust tubing started on. Dashboard panels trimmed & gearbox tunnel being reconstructed.
We ran the engine again this afternoon -until it suddenly stopped. Turned out the earth terminal had come adrift from the fuel pump. Love the way the whole truck lurches to one side when we blip the throttle   Grin
Any more updates on Pop Andy.
i will be up soon the sort the wiring out to the alternator and fan
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« Reply #4129 on: November 22, 2011, 11:55:51 PM »

Hiya Terry.
I've been at the workshop most days, but not a lot of progress worth photographing for a while.
Loony's been busy with other vehicles, plus had a few days away from the 'shop, so I've been pottering with various parts, building up a pile of bits to be welded. With the darker evenings now, I'm only getting a couple of hours per day before it's time to head home.
Today we tacked the stainless exhaust extension together that will connect the left pipe to the new Cherry Bomb silencer. I was juggling bits of pipe & guessing where they'd go, so needed at least one section glued together. Once the left pipe's sorted & I've worked out where the silencer needs to be fitted I can make the mounts, then start on the right side.
I've made mounting tabs for the curved panel that fits under the passenger side of the dashboard & we also tacked them in place today. Once it's hung in position I can make up a flange to attach to the bottom edge to bolt it to the footwell panels. Once in place, I need to mark & cut out an access panel so we can get to the windscreen washer bottle inside.
I've also started reworking the gearbox tunnel sections, adding new flanges & captive nuts, so that they'll bolt together, rather than using self tapping screws -the test examiners picked up on the pointy screw heads poking through under the cab in a couple of places. Bolts will also be more re-usable than screws. I'd like to re-work the front of the tunnel, where it fits under the dash, with a section attached to the bulkhead & the rest bolting to it. Otherwise, we won't be able to remove the tunnel for gear selector access without removing half the dash pannelling first.
We used stainless steel MIG wire to weld the exhaust together, so while we were at it, I removed the stainless headers, cut off the turn-outs that we've decided to do away with & cut fill-in pieces to replace them. So we welded those in today too. I'll need to spend some time soft padding them & hand filing them flush.
I've also cut fill-in pieces for the corners of the dash, where it runs up into the windscreen pillars, ready to be tacked in place.
The dashboard's currently held with nuts & bolts, but once the under-dash panels are in, we won't have access to the nuts. So when the dash comes off to fix the charging light, I'll drill the bolt holes out to a larger size & tap a thread into them, so the dash can be bolted in place from the top.
I've ordered a brake master cylinder from a mate & when it arrives I'll pick up a reel of copper brake pipe as it looks like half the system will need replumbing anyway. Might be able to re-route some of the brake lines, further from the exhausts, but probably still a few places where we'll need to use heatproof sleeving to please the examiners. I have to make a metal cover to bolt over the bunch of wiring connectors under the passenger seat too.
So we're still plodding on, but as I said, not much worth photographing at the moment.
Give us a shout when you're ready to come back.  Wink
« Last Edit: November 27, 2011, 12:35:44 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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terry t
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« Reply #4130 on: November 29, 2011, 09:17:05 PM »

Andy i know you have sorted the master cylinder. but have you sorted out brake proporting valve yet
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« Reply #4131 on: November 29, 2011, 09:32:17 PM »

Hi Terry. 90 quid?! Haven't got any spare pennies at the moment, but Mr Kapri reminded me about it just a few days ago. He talked of a compensator valve, rather than a proportioning or bias valve. I'm not sure if they're the same thing or not.
Mr Loony's had a few days away from the workshop in the past week or two & the onset of the Christmas rush at work, (I'm a Postie -everyone's buying Christmas online this year), means I'm finishing work & getting to the 'shop later now. Coupled with colder, darker, wetter afternoons means progress is frustratingly slow at the moment.
I've spent the last couple of afternoons cleaning up the stainless exhaust headers after we decided to cut off the 3" bore turn outs -there must be a proper name for these, but I don't know what. The idea is that you can run your car with a standard, street legal exhaust system all week, then unbolt the blanking caps when you go racing at weekends to run with a straight-through, open headers set-up. To be honest, when we built the header pipes, we just thought they'd look cool.
We're struggling to keep the exhaust quiet enough for the test as it is & with the caps off it sounds a bit agricultural, plus we'd have to alter the carb/ignition timing every time we opened them. Also the design we came up with, with a single centre bolt holding the caps on, meant the heat would probably seize the bolts in place after a while. We reckon it'll look more subtle without them too.
So I cut them off & made up curved repair patches, which Mr L welded in place. A bit of grinding & filing, a few extra dabs of weld in the low spots, some more filing & they're as good as new. Yeah, it would've been easier, quicker & cheaper not to fit them in the first place, but sometimes you've just gotta try these things & see how they look.
« Last Edit: November 29, 2011, 09:38:43 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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« Reply #4132 on: November 29, 2011, 09:33:50 PM »

Invisible mending. 3" hole plated over & cleaned up. That's tidier.
« Last Edit: November 29, 2011, 09:38:53 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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« Reply #4133 on: November 29, 2011, 09:34:18 PM »

they look nice andy.
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dobber
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« Reply #4134 on: November 29, 2011, 09:44:44 PM »

how long before it has to go back in m/m. and whats left to do from the list.  seems every job in this game makes two jobs.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
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« Reply #4135 on: November 29, 2011, 10:00:35 PM »

That's very true!
We had 6 months to get it re-tested, from the date of the first test, which was the 10th of October. So that makes it the start of March. I was really hoping to get the SVA test out of the way before Christmas, but don't think I can even afford the necessary parts before then, so looks like it'll be as early in the New Year as possible. Once we've passed the SVA, it has to be MOT'd, which means sorting things like seatbelts, wipers etc, which aren't included in the SVA. Then it has to be insured, before being inspected by the DVLA to check all the details in the paperwork are correct. Once that's done, I have to pay for the road tax, then they issue the logbook & registration number.
After all that, we strip it down to the last nut & bolt to finish everything properly, then paint & plate it, as well as adding the upholstery etc.
So my target date of having it ready for the annual Wheelsday show in Hampshire on Good Friday, (April), ain't looking promising at the moment.
We need to completely rebuild the brakes, buying a new master cyliinder & proportioning valve, plus new brake pipe -which means finding several hundred quid as soon as I can. Then sort out the exhaust as it's too loud. Then check the emmissions. Then look at tweaking the front suspension, (it should self centre to some degree when you let go of the wheel, but it doesn't really at the moment). Then clear up a few oil & water leaks. Then shield the brake pipes & wiring from the heat of the exhaust. Then box in the bundle of wiring connectors under the seat, etc, etc.
Lots of little bits, but mainly the brakes. Hoping to have a new master cylinder by this weekend, which will mean notching the chassis cross member to fit it. Then I need to sort out a prop' valve & new brake pipe before Kev can come back to show us how to put it all back together properly.
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poprodder
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« Reply #4136 on: November 29, 2011, 10:23:08 PM »

i know how you feel andy, i've spent some of my engine money on a beam axle!!!
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kapri
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« Reply #4137 on: November 30, 2011, 11:24:21 AM »

When you install the m/c Andy , you'll need to fit the pedal again and ensure that as it passes 90' point it becames parallel to the cylinder bore so you don't lose performance. That means that probably either the pedal pivot will have to go up or the m/c mount down If you're not sure give me a shout when you get the m/c and I'll pop by.
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« Reply #4138 on: November 30, 2011, 11:54:30 AM »

Will do Kev. Moving either the pedal pivot or the cylinder mount will mean major surgery to the chassis, which will involve cutting a section out of the floor for access, but has to be done.
Do we need a brake compensator valve, like this:
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« Reply #4139 on: November 30, 2011, 11:56:32 AM »

Or a proportioning valve, like this? (I know it needs to be locked in one postion for the test, but we could drill & wire the knob, or fit a locknut under it maybe).
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