skates
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« on: January 05, 2012, 07:36:00 PM » |
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hope someone can help me here. iv got a reliant 850 trike. was running good the tried to start her up but i have no spark. thought it was maybe the coil so got a new one but still no spark. i dont really know anything about pionts. i have power to the coil so i know it aint that but then im a compleat numbnuts
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if at first you don't succeed. hit the fecker with a hammer
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tbone
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« Reply #1 on: January 05, 2012, 08:00:56 PM » |
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Where don`t you have a spark?
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
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skates
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Posts: 215
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« Reply #2 on: January 05, 2012, 08:05:22 PM » |
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at the plugs mate as far as i know
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if at first you don't succeed. hit the fecker with a hammer
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tbone
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« Reply #3 on: January 05, 2012, 08:28:02 PM » |
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Coils tend to break down over a period of time, producing a weaker & weaker spark but rarely fail completely.
Remove the king lead (the one from the coil to the centre of the distributor cap) & using something insulated, or 2 bits of wood if you must, hold the end of the lead close to the block, hit the starter button/key. You should have a nice strong spark jumping from the end of the lead to the block. If not, replace the lead.
You can do the same with each plug lead in turn, by disconnecting them from the plugs. Obviously if they all spark then you need new plugs. If they don`t then put them back and check inside the distributor.
WITH THE IGNITION OFF
remove the distributor cap (leave the other leads in place), wipe it round with a dry cloth and check that the 4 electrodes are not corroded up, check the centre bush for corrosion and make sure it moves freely on the spring. Check the cap for any signs of cracking.
Visual check on the rotor arm, again making sure its not rusty and is in one piece.
Points next, my guess is they are either worn or the securing screw is loose and they have moved. Check the screw is tight, clean both contact faces with some wet/dry paper. Check the gap, 15thou is your starting point.
To check the gap, use a 9/16af spanner on the crank pulley nut and turn the engine over till the rotor is pointing towards No.1 cylinder. This is the connection on the cap where the lead goes to the spark plug at the front of the engine (the rotor will not necessarily point towards the front of the engine)
Now, gently turn the engine until the points are fully open, you will notice the distributor shaft is not round, it has 4 corners, the points are fully open when the distributor shaft corner or cam is in contact with the points at its highest point.
If the gap is out, loosen the points securing screw, using a small blade screwdriver, prise the points either closer of further apart, depending on your gap reading, until you can slide a 15thou feeler gauge blade between the 2 faces without pushing the points apart. Tighten the screw back up.
Make sure the wire connections to the points are clean and tight and that they are not earthing out on the body of the distributor.
Although condensers can be checked, they are really a `replace if suspect` component, again like the coil, its very unusual to have a condenser fail completely, thats why you leave it till last.
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« Last Edit: January 05, 2012, 08:34:40 PM by tbone »
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
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skates
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Posts: 215
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« Reply #4 on: January 05, 2012, 09:33:59 PM » |
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thanks for that mate. will give it a go
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if at first you don't succeed. hit the fecker with a hammer
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tbone
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« Reply #5 on: January 05, 2012, 09:38:49 PM » |
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No problem  Make sure you come back and let us know how you get on. |
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
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skates
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Karma: 1
Posts: 215
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« Reply #6 on: January 05, 2012, 09:47:20 PM » |
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if there is no spark from the coil lead what could that be?
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if at first you don't succeed. hit the fecker with a hammer
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tbone
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« Reply #7 on: January 05, 2012, 09:53:26 PM » |
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Could be a faulty lead, corrosion on the end that goes into the coil.
Could be a faulty coil, but new units are very very rarely faulty so make sure your getting a good earth through the body of the coil.
Could be no power into the coil, but you say you have power,but its worth makeing sure its 12volts.
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NO I WON`T. aye ok then, i will
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spanners
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« Reply #8 on: January 05, 2012, 10:13:55 PM » |
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,,,,points,,?  maybe worth checking the baseplate ground lead too  |
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LIVE FAST and DIE YOUNG,, past 50 AND STILL HERE NOW. WAITING. FOR. THE. GRIM. REAPER
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rob62
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Posts: 202
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« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2012, 12:40:38 AM » |
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can you still get a passing child to stick his finger in a plug cap while you crank the engine.....or have social services put a stop to that? |
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dobber
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« Reply #10 on: January 06, 2012, 02:31:55 AM » |
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sweet rob62, used to get girls to try get the metal bit out of the plug lead on my gt 250 then crank it over. still single now, dont know why...
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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rob62
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« Reply #11 on: January 06, 2012, 03:26:59 AM » |
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my dad did it to me when i was changing the coil on a hillman imp (my first car).Taught me to keep the keys in my pocket when im working on anything!!
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RODeo
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« Reply #12 on: January 06, 2012, 02:56:29 PM » |
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If the leads are the silicone type sort of limp and floppy (heard that somewhere else before )they tend to break down. try better copper leads?Hows the plastic spacer (tiny,top hat shape)between points spring and base plate? Clean up the points with fine sandpaper? |
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