May 05, 2024, 07:24:07 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Manky Monkey Motors Merchandise now available Cool Items at cool prices http://www.mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/merchandise.html
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Gallery Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2 3
  Print  
Author Topic: tube bender guides  (Read 11357 times)
klogan45
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 30
Posts: 3394



« on: October 21, 2006, 08:28:25 PM »

Hi Guys,
can anyone tell me where I can buy really good tube bender guides.
A mate has loaned me a tube bender (he's not used it for ages and says that I can look after it for as long as I need too and that if he does need it he will bring it back!!!!!!!! COOL) but the guides do not fit the tube exactly and the sides are a bit shallo, so the tube creases.
Any ideas anyone.
Thanks
Take care ride safe have fun.
Keith
Logged

Confucius say woman who flies upside down has crack up!

He who holds The Angle Grinder of Destiny holds the fate of bikekind in his hands.

Where did that 13mm spanner go then?
trikerpete
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 30
Posts: 3585


like a head with a sore bear :)


WWW
« Reply #1 on: October 21, 2006, 08:32:56 PM »

what type/size tube & make/modelbender are you using?
Logged

what do you mean, I cant do that !! Smiley
Manky Monkey
Administrator
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 264
Posts: 55102



WWW
« Reply #2 on: October 21, 2006, 08:37:43 PM »

We've got a Clark's bender, (about 80 quid from Machine Mart), & use 4mm wall thickness ERW tubing. Seems to bend with no problem, though the 1 1/2" bore  I use for top tubes tends to leave two small indentations where the rollers have been if I pull it through more than 45 degrees.
Logged

On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
klogan45
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 30
Posts: 3394



« Reply #3 on: October 22, 2006, 08:35:05 AM »

Hi Guys,
I'm using a clark bender, and 40mm tube with a wall thickness of 4mm.
Tha problem that I have is that the dies seem to be just slightly too large and not deep enough so that the tube starts to collapse. Thats why i'm thinking that more accurately made dies with deeper walls might help.
Thanks
Take care ride safe have fun
Keith
Logged

Confucius say woman who flies upside down has crack up!

He who holds The Angle Grinder of Destiny holds the fate of bikekind in his hands.

Where did that 13mm spanner go then?
Manky Monkey
Administrator
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 264
Posts: 55102



WWW
« Reply #4 on: October 22, 2006, 09:28:37 AM »

Hmm, the ERW's not the best quality tube in the World -it does what we want of it, but it's only a nominal size. It varies slightly from one batch to the next. Never had a problem bending it though. I once tried some other tube & had to pack the die with duct tape to make it a tighter fit. Could try that. The dies are shallow though & only come up to the centre line of the tube. As I said, it's never been a problem so not sure what to suggest.
Anyone else?
Logged

On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
reliantman
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 32
Posts: 1265



WWW
« Reply #5 on: October 22, 2006, 11:35:47 AM »

Where abouts are you putting the seam inside the metal? Is it facing the die, or outwards?
Logged
klogan45
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 30
Posts: 3394



« Reply #6 on: October 22, 2006, 12:08:36 PM »

Hello all,
reliantman asked where I position the seam, it obviously makes a difference.
The question is ...where should the seam be?
Thanks to all for the help so far.
Take care ride safe have fun.
Keith
Logged

Confucius say woman who flies upside down has crack up!

He who holds The Angle Grinder of Destiny holds the fate of bikekind in his hands.

Where did that 13mm spanner go then?
reliantman
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 32
Posts: 1265



WWW
« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2006, 02:49:20 PM »

Keith.
I have dropped myself in it now, as I was going to come straight back and tell you which way, but I can't remember myself. I think the bead has to be against the die, but I am not 100% sure.
I have been on the net all afternoon, and cannot find the answer yet, but I am sure it is there.
Logged
trikerpete
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 30
Posts: 3585


like a head with a sore bear :)


WWW
« Reply #8 on: October 22, 2006, 04:23:06 PM »

We've got a Clark's bender, (about 80 quid from Machine Mart), & use 4mm wall thickness ERW tubing. Seems to bend with no problem, though the 1 1/2" bore  I use for top tubes tends to leave two small indentations where the rollers have been if I pull it through more than 45 degrees.


Suggest cutting two "Saddles" from next size up and place ontop of the tube your going to bend and directly under the rollers. "Saddle" = a half section of tube about 50mm long. This helps me when I have that problem.
Logged

what do you mean, I cant do that !! Smiley
klogan45
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 30
Posts: 3394



« Reply #9 on: October 22, 2006, 06:42:16 PM »

Hi Guys
Had a go at bending some more tube, tried with seam up, seam down and seam at the side. Its still not happening.
The top goes flat in section and the bottom creases really badly, even with a bend of 45 degrees from straight. The problem is not ocuring where the tube meets the rollers but on the bend itself.
Any other suggestions will be most welcome.
Thanks again,
Keith.
Take care ride safe have fun.
« Last Edit: October 22, 2006, 06:44:22 PM by klogan45 » Logged

Confucius say woman who flies upside down has crack up!

He who holds The Angle Grinder of Destiny holds the fate of bikekind in his hands.

Where did that 13mm spanner go then?
Manky Monkey
Administrator
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 264
Posts: 55102



WWW
« Reply #10 on: October 22, 2006, 09:27:26 PM »

You sure you're using 4mm thick tube? Shouldn't be folding up like you describe. If it creases that easily I'd be a little worried about it's strength for frame building.
Where have you got the rollers positioned? They're adjustable on ours -half a dozen hole positions. We usually use the middle one. Personally I've never worried about the seam position. Can't say I've noticed it's made a difference to the bends, but I guess facing into the die would be least stressed.
I suspect you're not using the same kind of tube we are. How about warming it with a blow lamp before bending?
Logged

On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
reliantman
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 32
Posts: 1265



WWW
« Reply #11 on: October 22, 2006, 09:58:46 PM »

Mostly agree with above. You could try packing it with wet sand, or if you had enough, melt some lead and pour it down the tube, then heat it up after you have finished. The sand is supposed to be better though.
Logged
Manky Monkey
Administrator
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 264
Posts: 55102



WWW
« Reply #12 on: October 22, 2006, 10:12:23 PM »

Plumbers' merchants sell a long coil spring for putting inside copper pipe when you bend it to stop it collapsing, in much the same way as the sand works.
Logged

On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
trikerpete
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 30
Posts: 3585


like a head with a sore bear :)


WWW
« Reply #13 on: October 23, 2006, 07:25:24 AM »

Keith, exactly what tube are you using??  As for the "welded seam position".... I often produce "compound" bends (I think thats what Manky calls them) which means that they will curve different ways along the length of the tube. Although I may start with the seam facing down into the former, when I move tube along for the next bend it maybe facing up or to the side. I have never had a problem with this. I really think you need to look at exactly what specification your tube is. Dont despair, we''ll help you through this Roll Eyes Grin
Logged

what do you mean, I cant do that !! Smiley
Manky Monkey
Administrator
Hero Member
*****

Karma: 264
Posts: 55102



WWW
« Reply #14 on: October 23, 2006, 10:59:32 AM »

We will?
Oh right, we will.  Wink
Logged

On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
Pages: [1] 2 3
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!