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kapri
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« on: May 18, 2015, 09:44:58 PM » |
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What's the correct method to cut and rake a frame headstock?
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2015, 05:35:22 PM » |
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Not sure there's a correct method Kev. I've always cut the top tube just behind the headstock & taken a wedge shaped slice out, then warmed the top of the downtubes & leant on the top of the yokes until the gap closes up. Then welded it up & added new triangular gussets under the headstock.
Whatcha building now?
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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kapri
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« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2015, 08:24:28 AM » |
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Just going through it all in my head right now Andy , just to make sure it's do-able  |
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saex69
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« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2015, 11:44:49 AM » |
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There are a number of way's to do it like Manky say's you could just take a wedge out or you could cut the whole lot off and make a new front end which will also tidy it up, you can chop the top tube and heat the bottom down tube's and bend the head stock back a little. hope that helps
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Life is like a s**t sandwich the more bread you have the less s**t you have to eat.
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Stix
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« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2015, 04:27:26 PM » |
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On my auto honda 400 I just cut the top of the frame, it is a pressed steel spine in two parts took a pie slice out of it lined it all back up and welded it, then all I had to do was make some deeper front engine mounts and bolt them on, the motor is part of the frame, jobs a goo dun, three inch longer fork stanchions and that gave a bit of hight on the front, could have gone with just under two to keep it level.
Stix
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terry t
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« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2015, 06:07:19 PM » |
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Or get raked yokes made |
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kapri
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« Reply #6 on: May 23, 2015, 06:17:36 PM » |
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On my auto honda 400 I just cut the top of the frame, it is a pressed steel spine in two parts took a pie slice out of it lined it all back up and welded it, then all I had to do was make some deeper front engine mounts and bolt them on, the motor is part of the frame, jobs a goo dun, three inch longer fork stanchions and that gave a bit of hight on the front, could have gone with just under two to keep it level.
Stix
It's a CX I'm thinking about John! |
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merv
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« Reply #7 on: May 23, 2015, 06:20:48 PM » |
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Or get raked yokes made Sorry Terry, this is a new one on me can you explain |
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
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Stix
Sr. Member
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« Reply #9 on: May 23, 2015, 07:09:32 PM » |
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On my auto honda 400 I just cut the top of the frame, it is a pressed steel spine in two parts took a pie slice out of it lined it all back up and welded it, then all I had to do was make some deeper front engine mounts and bolt them on, the motor is part of the frame, jobs a goo dun, three inch longer fork stanchions and that gave a bit of hight on the front, could have gone with just under two to keep it level.
Stix
It's a CX I'm thinking about John! Kev If the frame is the same then about an hour to get it cut and re welded, and if the motor is a stressed member then just make up some new engine plates and bolt em on. If you want I will pop down and take a look but it ain't rocket science. John |
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merv
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« Reply #10 on: May 23, 2015, 09:18:29 PM » |
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Thanks for the explanation Terry
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
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kapri
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« Reply #11 on: May 23, 2015, 09:32:18 PM » |
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On my auto honda 400 I just cut the top of the frame, it is a pressed steel spine in two parts took a pie slice out of it lined it all back up and welded it, then all I had to do was make some deeper front engine mounts and bolt them on, the motor is part of the frame, jobs a goo dun, three inch longer fork stanchions and that gave a bit of hight on the front, could have gone with just under two to keep it level.
Stix
It's a CX I'm thinking about John! Kev If the frame is the same then about an hour to get it cut and re welded, and if the motor is a stressed member then just make up some new engine plates and bolt em on. If you want I will pop down and take a look but it ain't rocket science. John There's a strengthening plate on the headstock I was going to take this off, cut and rake behind it and then put another plate on. What I didn't know was whether butt welds were considered acceptable or it needed an insert into both bits of tube first. |
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Stix
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« Reply #12 on: May 23, 2015, 10:03:45 PM » |
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I take it you are using a mig, if so leave a gap of 3mm all round the slot and fill it with weld use a pretty hot setting so you actually burn into the parent metal if concerned put a run over the top making sure it burns into the first weld
John
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