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Author Topic: Manky's Pop.  (Read 1565613 times)
the coppersmith
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« Reply #8850 on: August 28, 2016, 11:07:50 AM »

Hire shop, MOSA welder. size of a small wheel barrow. They were 2 stroke, made a great whistling sound when welding.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8851 on: August 28, 2016, 11:34:16 AM »

I can just about point & squirt a MIG welder. There's a tool hire shop about half a mile from the lock-up, so renting a generator for half a day's probably the way to go.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
stinkey
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I can't stop building stuff ?,but I'm slowing down


« Reply #8852 on: August 29, 2016, 08:29:56 AM »

Bring both the pop and bike down here and let's get the bloody things done mate? Wink
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Backyard hotrodder,learnt by mistake,still learning ?
terry t
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« Reply #8853 on: August 29, 2016, 08:58:46 AM »

Bring both the pop and bike down here and let's get the bloody things done mate? Wink
Well there's an offer you cant refuse Andy
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lunatic
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« Reply #8854 on: August 29, 2016, 10:55:54 AM »

 Roll Eyes you could just get me to do them
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stinkey
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« Reply #8855 on: August 29, 2016, 05:04:47 PM »

Probably have been cheaper ? Roll Eyes
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8856 on: August 29, 2016, 06:17:17 PM »

Moving the Pop anywhere at the moment would be a major operation cos it's not running -waiting on the distributor & exhaust flanges, (both at a local engineer's). Once it's running & driveable it all becomes a lot easier.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8857 on: September 06, 2016, 09:28:52 PM »

Been waiting for a local engineering shop to fix a couple of parts for me for a couple of weeks now & moved out of Loon's workshop a week ago, so things have ground to a halt. Struggling to find my building Mojo too, so as it was my day off today I decided to take a look at the front end of the Pop.
After standing outside Loon's place under a tarpaulin for 3 years, a lot of the bright zinc nuts & bolts have rusted. I've had a few problems over the years with stainless fasteners "galling" -a reaction between stainless nuts & bolts which causes them to seize
https://www.margnor.co.uk/thread_galling
Shouldn't really use stainless on brake fittings either as it's more brittle than mild steel so will snap without warning rather than bending. So I'm replacing the rusted fasteners with new bright zinc plated ones. The brake discs have rusted quite badly too & I want to get them cleaned up before I take the Pop for an MOT. The yard outside Loony's workshop was concrete & gravel & the wind used to whip up dust clouds of grit that would shotblast everything. So the engine bay's covered in a layer of grit & sand -looks like it's been parked near a beach for years. Just to kickstart my enthusiasm while I waited for the engineers, I've taken off the discs & been to the local bolt shop with a shopping list of fittings. 
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8858 on: September 06, 2016, 09:31:34 PM »

If I remember right, (& I probably don't cos my memory is shockingly bad), the brakes are Triumph GT6.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8859 on: September 06, 2016, 09:33:36 PM »

.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8860 on: September 06, 2016, 09:35:53 PM »

A couple of engine fittings have rusted too, including this steel adaptor, used to fit the American made water temperature gauge to the inlet manifold. I've found a brass replacement for a couple of quid on Ebay.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8861 on: September 06, 2016, 09:46:37 PM »

Then, late this afternoon, Doug the engineer rang to say the parts were done. The work was actually done by ex forum member Scott, (SaddleBags). Ska Man, Flap & I built a trike frame for him a few years ago. He now rides a crazily quick Hyabusa.
He's spark eroded the hardened steel drive gear for the distributor, (safer than risking cracking it by drilling it apparently), so I can fit the roll pin & it's ready to set up the timing again.
Also bored out 2 stainless exhaust flanges for me. The old system used triangular stainless flanges welded to mild steel pipe. The new ones are stainless pipes welded to stainless silencers & I'm re-using the stainless flanges, but the pipe size is bigger. Now I need to set the pipework up in position & find a way to tack-weld it all together in situ to make sure it fits, as well as welding mounting tabs to the silencers & chassis. I'll either have to rent a large generator to run my own MIG welder, (currently fitted with a reel of stainless wire), or pay a mobile welder to do it. Scott also re-worked one of the exhaust clamps for my motorcycle.
While I was collecting the parts I dropped the brake discs off. They may only need bunging on a lathe & rubbing over with a Scotchbrite pad, but if not he'll give them a very light skim.
So now I've got some cleaning up to do & a few jobs to be getting on with.
Saw a reminder on FaceBook earlier that the Dutch hotrod show I've already booked to go to is only 6 weeks away!
« Last Edit: September 06, 2016, 09:50:14 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8862 on: September 06, 2016, 10:58:41 PM »

Looking for some wheel nuts to replace the rusting ones on the front wheels. M12 x 1.5 chrome bulge nuts, but the ones with rounded bottoms, not 60 degree tapered. Can only find ones with chromed bodies & a stainless cap, but they won't match the rear ones.
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minimutly
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« Reply #8863 on: September 07, 2016, 07:50:36 AM »

Mgzs if i recall Mm, although the chrome doesnt allways last well, you could try midland wheel supplies if you want new ones, rimmers, discount mg rover spares (dmgrs) are others. Be carefull, many other lesser rovers used taper, taper with insert, and ss covers (poo they are).
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Olds
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« Reply #8864 on: September 07, 2016, 08:35:02 AM »

Try these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grayston-Bulge-Dome-Wheel-Nut-M12x1-5mm-Radius-Seat-Chrome-Plated-SN14BR-/290859400118?hash=item43b8923bb6:g:TaUAAOxyhPxRE9l4
At least M12 x 1.5 wheel nuts are available. Looks like I will have to make mine (I'm missing a few) as they are 3/8" BSF. Huh
« Last Edit: September 07, 2016, 08:43:05 AM by Olds » Logged

Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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