kapri
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« Reply #15 on: October 06, 2015, 08:37:02 AM » |
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You were a propshaft salesman?! How does that work then Kev? Did you go door to door or is there some sort of mail order catalogue?
Just be grateful for Sercks liking to train their sales guys well ! One of my other specialist products was braking
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Olds
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« Reply #16 on: October 06, 2015, 08:50:40 AM » |
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What about the other end.
The other end would be easier but then it would definitely have to be re balanced. Still sticking with the 'if I can't do it at home, then it don't get done' rule of building. Think I'm just going to go for it at the diff end and see what happens. With a bit of luck there may be enough spigot left to hold on the chuck.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Manky Monkey
Administrator
Hero Member
Karma: 264
Posts: 55102
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« Reply #17 on: October 06, 2015, 09:15:23 AM » |
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Olds
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« Reply #18 on: October 06, 2015, 11:29:34 AM » |
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No such luck. Not enough spigot to grip so some slightly iffy use of the 4 jaw chuck and a running centre. Last cut and it's a light press fit, into the tube. Damn I hate machining welds. Even tungsten carbide tips go blunt and they are not cheap.
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« Last Edit: October 06, 2015, 11:33:20 AM by Olds »
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Mendalot
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« Reply #19 on: October 06, 2015, 11:39:57 AM » |
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Where there's a will ......... even if its iffy ....... there's a way
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Precision Guesswork ......... What else do you need?
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Olds
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« Reply #20 on: October 06, 2015, 12:27:08 PM » |
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Is this what you mean Kev ? OK so the light press fit turned out to be a slightly heavy press fit. Think i will assemble it all with the old spider just to check all is fine before welding.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Olds
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« Reply #21 on: October 06, 2015, 03:00:51 PM » |
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Tried it on the car and it fits with clearance, so welded it up. Not my best welding to date, but it's good and strong. Thanks for all comments and suggestions folks.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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the coppersmith
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« Reply #22 on: October 06, 2015, 07:04:17 PM » |
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Slightly off track, I'm putting together a project and the gearbox end is a doughnut, rotoflex? coupling. So that cannot slide in and out, so how do I manage?? There was a fixed diff but this car has a live axle, working with a jack and stands it doesn't seem to alter in length much. Have I boobed??
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Olds
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« Reply #23 on: October 06, 2015, 08:11:32 PM » |
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As far as I know, rotoflex are used where there is little or no linear deflection. Such as certain drive shafts or between gearbox and a fixed diff where the only deflection is caused by by the likes of changes in temperature or vibration. Might be worth checking that the prop is not limiting the axle movement both in loaded (bump stops) and unloaded (wheels off the ground) conditions.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers. The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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hunter
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« Reply #24 on: October 06, 2015, 08:35:37 PM » |
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Looks good to me.
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I
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morrag
Hero Member
Karma: 49
Posts: 2875
Carpe diem!
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« Reply #25 on: October 06, 2015, 08:46:09 PM » |
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Proper job Dave, she'll be right! and if a tremor be detected, then the old "Jubillee" trick will cure it I'm sure! ..Morrag
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Beware the Ides of March, But!
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kapri
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« Reply #26 on: October 06, 2015, 09:10:35 PM » |
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Slightly off track, I'm putting together a project and the gearbox end is a doughnut, rotoflex? coupling. So that cannot slide in and out, so how do I manage?? There was a fixed diff but this car has a live axle, working with a jack and stands it doesn't seem to alter in length much. Have I boobed??
When using the rotoflex coupling and movement is normally a slide joint in the middle of a 2 piece prop . Rotoflex should have NO misalignment as it will eat it in very short order.
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the coppersmith
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« Reply #27 on: October 07, 2015, 02:06:32 PM » |
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many thanks for the pointers. This morning, I went and investigated the prop shaft and at the centre bearing there is indeed a slide fitting, trouble was it was siezed. Big fire axe and a trusty hammer soon freed it up, now have it soaking in special brew to keep it free. Any idea how much it should be engaged? Cannot see a rub mark.
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minimutly
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« Reply #28 on: October 07, 2015, 06:08:00 PM » |
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I did one for a mates kit car, exactly the way your doing it, then fitted it to the car, with a dti. Turned the prop, tapping to eliminate throw, tacked it, then took it off to weld. It was spot on, even though i say so myself. For balancing a jubilee clip to find where to tack a weight on will do. Diy city
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