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Author Topic: trike radiator reliant...  (Read 8314 times)
dobber
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« Reply #15 on: November 15, 2011, 12:36:38 AM »

does look good....
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #16 on: November 15, 2011, 05:41:05 AM »

 Grin
Having the rad at the back meant I couldn't use the normal sloping rear hardtail design cos I wanted to mount it inside the line of the frame, rather than hung behind it. So the back end had a sort of flat deck area. I used the space either side of the pillion seat for a box with flush mounting lid. One held the battery & the fuses, while the other was a storage box, big enough for my gloves, goggles & a few tools. I fitted aluminium runners with rubber inserts, as used on the running boards of some vintage cars, across the decks to give me somewhere to strap luggage to without damaging the green powdercoat.
Only problem I ever had was the coating would sometimes soften a little on a long run because of the heat of the water running inside it -I could push my fingernail into it after a couple of hundred miles. Never did any permanent damage but meant the bottom loop of the frame, that carried the water, wasn't quite as shiney as the rest.
I started with a standard Harley Sportster tank & welded a steel "tail" onto it to give that sloping look, then during it's first Winter rebuild, sent that to The Tank Shop in Scotland, who made a copy in aluminium. The speedo was set into the top of it.
« Last Edit: November 15, 2011, 04:17:25 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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Bus Boy
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« Reply #17 on: November 15, 2011, 11:55:50 AM »

both veeeeeeery nice............i remember when the red one was in AWOL mag years ago, hit me instantly as a well engineered & alternative styled piece of kit.......spent many hours drooling over it !
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andyrennison
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« Reply #18 on: November 15, 2011, 06:26:43 PM »

Dobber, then narrower the pipe, greater the pressure at the pump, lower the pressure at the rad, lower the flow. The pump will develop a max pressure, the least resistance to flow will result in the greater flow, so keep them pipes wide Smiley

MM did you even need a rad if you used the frame - I bet that did most of the cooling work? 

Were there any corrosion issues using a steel frame, alloy engine ?

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dobber
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« Reply #19 on: November 15, 2011, 06:59:26 PM »

crossed my mind Andy. we have a radiator maker in wakefield. going to see about a custom made one for the front. got no  practical route for the water pipe to the rear.
you got one for your build. got a goldwing one with its own filler neck and cap, few mm too wide to fit in mine.   no forward planing.... again...
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« Reply #20 on: November 15, 2011, 07:08:49 PM »

I have a reliant rad here, but have been thinking of one at the rear with a fan.  Had this in mind :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-CORSA-COMBO-DIESEL-1993-2000-NEW-RADIATOR-/190556582949?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c5e0eb425

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spanners
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« Reply #21 on: November 15, 2011, 07:22:16 PM »

mondeo rad is another rear mount option along with the like,s of citroen AX,,, puegoet  106,,,306 etc,,
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dobber
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« Reply #22 on: November 15, 2011, 07:24:40 PM »

how do you put the filler/cap set up in?
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thebigdogsix
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« Reply #23 on: November 15, 2011, 07:29:24 PM »

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/In-Line_Radiator_Filler_Neck_25mm_INF25
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andyrennison
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« Reply #24 on: November 15, 2011, 07:30:34 PM »

Perfect!
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andyrennison
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« Reply #25 on: November 15, 2011, 07:32:17 PM »

with a bit of lever jiggery pokery you could even allow hot air to go to yoiu passenger on cold days, to keep them warm Smiley
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thebigdogsix
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« Reply #26 on: November 15, 2011, 07:32:30 PM »

but for what its worth i think unless your going to hide it Andy that most modern rads are just downright ugly  Smiley
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dobber
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« Reply #27 on: November 15, 2011, 07:34:38 PM »

aint nowt you cant get.. rethink time on mine
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andyrennison
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« Reply #28 on: November 15, 2011, 07:45:32 PM »

but for what its worth i think unless your going to hide it Andy that most modern rads are just downright ugly  Smiley

Couldn't agree more! It will be hidden if I go that route.  My build is planned a 3 seater, with the rear end looking a bit like a cut down Morgan, ie sweepy back mudguards and some form of enclosure around the seats, possible a bathtub appearance.  So I can hide the rad under that, of have it crosswise at the rear behind a nice grill.  I want to keep the seats low, if possible down between the wheels rather than above, and keep the wheelbase as short as possible.  Moving the rad to the rear *may* help on the wheelbase slightly.

Still drawing / redrawing / cursing at the moment Smiley
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Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle,
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spanners
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« Reply #29 on: November 15, 2011, 07:51:48 PM »

but for what its worth i think unless your going to hide it Andy that most modern rads are just downright ugly  Smiley

Couldn't agree more! It will be hidden if I go that route.  My build is planned a 3 seater, with the rear end looking a bit like a cut down Morgan, ie sweepy back mudguards and some form of enclosure around the seats, possible a bathtub appearance.  So I can hide the rad under that, of have it crosswise at the rear behind a nice grill.  I want to keep the seats low, if possible down between the wheels rather than above, and keep the wheelbase as short as possible.  Moving the rad to the rear *may* help on the wheelbase slightly.

Still drawing / redrawing / cursing at the moment Smiley

 what you need    is  an IZAL bog roll and a pencil next to the throne in the ,lavvie,,
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