Manky's Pop.

[kapri]

Spoke to "Speedy" Cables this morning -it'll be 4 or 5 weeks till they get around to looking at mine.

And they have the cheek to call themselves 'speedy' 

Then 4-6 from when you accept the quote , then case them up after two weeks because you havne't had any contact and they say they never got your confirmation ,so get quoted -6 week sfrom THAT date instead then 2-3 weeks chasing cos their late ,then send back for another 2-3 weeks cos they did it wrong , then argue for 4 weeks that they want to charge for something THEY did wrong , then get it back and it stil doesn't work , then send it back again ...and so on .All my last experience .

Still you've driven without a speedo al last year

On the other hand you could go to a smaller specialist who reconditioned a dash for a friend, charged him over £1000 and it LOOKED stunning whne it came back, shame none of the gauges were working.

So who else is there around who can deal with speedos and gauges then? ( not including Mr Sidwell) I'm going to need to have the speedo done for the Met.

Long established firm

http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/

[Olds]

Another way, rather than getting your speedo recalibrated, is to find one with the correct tpm, for your application. Smiths seem to have made hundreds of different ones over the years.

For example, using Andys 13.25/6 ratio (2.2083) and say 600x16 tyres' with an unladen rolling circumference of 88.39" or 2.4568 yards.
1 Mile =1760 yards,     1760/2.4568 =716.379 wheel revs/mile,      716.379 x 2.2083 =1582 tpm. Laden tpm approximately +2 per cent = 1614 tpm
So a 1600 tpm speedo should be fairly accurate. (if I've got my figures right).
A quicker way of calculating is
 unladen- 20160/ tyre height in inches x drive ratio (20160/28.15x2.2083 =1581.5)
 laden-     20600/ tyre height in inches x drive ratio (20600/28.15x2.2083 =1616.0)

Typical Smiths speedo tpm-
 Morrris MM ( not 1000) MG TD=1600. Morris 1000, Reliant Rialto/Robin, Scimitar, ,=1000. MGB manual pre 74 =1280 post 74 =1000. MG Midget pre 74 =1376 post 74 =1000.
Land Rover early SWB =1536 early Range Rover = 1152.
 
Please don't take any of this as gospel and please correct if wrong.

[kapri]

Fords all run at 1000tpm and vary cable rotation by mainshaft drive and speedo drive cogs.

[Manky Monkey]

Didn't understand a word of that Dave, but it looks impressive!
Wish I'd known about Richfield's before I took mine to Speedy, Kev. Just have to keep my fingers crossed that they get it sorted before I need the truck back on the road in April.
As a matter of interest, is it actually illegal to drive without a speedo? I plan to buy a SatNav with speed display for my Belgium trip,
No progress today as the electricity board cut the power at Loon's workshop for the day for local maintenance work.

[thebigdogsix]

not sure how it works while driving but last time i had an mot i was told the speedo had to be fitted but did not need to be shown working

[Manky Monkey]

Kev recently told me that the BIVA car registration test checks the speedo's accuracy on a rolling road.

[Mendalot]

I was going to send my speedo to Speedy Cables to have it re calibrated for the mew 16" wheels, but after reading this, I think I will give Richfields a try

[Manky Monkey]

I've had cables made by Speedy Cables in the past with no problems. Done in a week or two & always a good job, although they're not the cheapest.. First time I've given them a speedo.
I tried a local guy, (may have been Mr Sidwell, can't remember his name), years ago when I had a Morris Minor pick-up & eventually gave up & took the gauge back. Seems it's one of those industries that's just unreliable.
I'll let you know when I hear anything from Speedy's.

[Manky Monkey]

Received 4 90 degree stainless bends in the post today. So now I have all the necessary parts to remake the back section of the exhaust system.

[Manky Monkey]

Interior light fitting welded together, ready for a bit of fettling.

[Olds]

Polished exhausts, interior lighting, comfier seats...... 
That light mounting looks neat.

[Manky Monkey]

-Yeah, just like a real car. Who knows, it might even get some paint eventually.
Mr Loon has to weld up the last of the holes in the roof before the interior light housing goes in, or it'll fill up with rain water!

[Manky Monkey]

Interior roof seams smoothed off so the light fitting fits snug to the roofline. Wide angle lens on my camera makes it look bigger than it actually is, (missus). Once the suspended headlining panel's made & fitted around this it won't look so deep either.
Lots of half finished welding jobs that need doing while the seats & stuff are out. You can see here that I've pulled the fibreglass dashboard out too. Still driveable but I'm sitting on a plastic crate with lots of live wiring hanging in front of me.

[kapri]

If you are fitting a headliner before checking for leaks again I'd smear some seamsealer over all welds on the roof ...you really don't want a surprise cold shower !

 Only takes the tiniest hole to create a major leak ,water just 'wicks' it's way in .Yet again I have the T shirt:(. No visible sign of a leak at all. The only way we found it was in a darkened garge witha torch shone right up against all welds.

[Manky Monkey]

  Hopefully Mr Loon will fill in the last of the holes tomorrow, before the light unit gets welded in Kev. The headliner will be a simple steel panel bolted to mounting tabs in the corners of the "roll cage", using a Morris Minor roof section, & covered in tuck n roll material.
Seam sealer's a good idea though. I think there's some at the workshop.