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Author Topic: Manky's Pop.  (Read 1565017 times)
tbone
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« Reply #3030 on: April 22, 2011, 06:15:45 PM »

Should be just the fuel pump and gauge left now.
Fuse 4, 17amp feed to relay terminal 87
            earth relay terminal 85
            17 amp cable from terminal 30 to pump (+ feed in)
             17 amp cable from ignition switch (start position) to relay terminal 86

fuse 8, 8.75amps to fuel gauge. then 8.75amp cable from fuel sender unit to the gauge

Your running 2 pumps so will need to do this twice, you could mount the relays next to each other and branch accross but dont forget to double the wire size for the feeds.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2011, 05:34:00 AM by tbone » Logged

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tbone
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« Reply #3031 on: April 22, 2011, 06:21:49 PM »

I have stuck to 2 basic cable sizes, 1.0mm2 & 2.0mm2 (8.75 & 17.5 amps), this is purely for ease, some circuits could be done with lighter cable.
You could double up on some of the fuses, but fuse & cable rating will be affected if you do.
The wire colours are close to the standard Lucas spec, but again for ease, I have ommitted tracer colours and stuck with solids.

I also forgot a horn!!!
Add a 8.75amp feed from fuse 2 to the horn switch, then the same cable from the switch to the horn.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2011, 07:21:02 AM by tbone » Logged

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spanners
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« Reply #3032 on: April 22, 2011, 06:27:44 PM »

nice job T.B
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #3033 on: April 22, 2011, 07:10:34 PM »

Whatdya mean, simple so I can follow it?!
Have you forgotten just how stoopid I am? I wouldn't trust me to wire a plug, let alone a whole car.
We also need to wire the test button for the low brake fluid level warning light, from the brake reservoir to the light on the dashboard I believe.
Many thanks by the way to Kapri, who I met up with at the Wheelsday show today. He donated a big bag of assorted wiring connectors. Thanks Kev.  Wink
« Last Edit: April 22, 2011, 07:12:06 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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tbone
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« Reply #3034 on: April 23, 2011, 05:28:00 AM »

We also need to wire the test button for the low brake fluid level warning light, from the brake reservoir to the light on the dashboard I believe.

Erm, you`ll see that on the fourth circuit diagram  Roll Eyes  Grin


nice job T.B

Cheers Mike  Wink
« Last Edit: April 23, 2011, 05:49:22 AM by tbone » Logged

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« Reply #3035 on: April 23, 2011, 06:57:58 PM »

See, told you I was stoopid.  Tongue
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« Reply #3036 on: April 27, 2011, 09:53:27 PM »

One bank of headers finally filed & scrubbed up.
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Clive
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« Reply #3037 on: April 27, 2011, 09:56:41 PM »

Cool!!
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« Reply #3038 on: April 27, 2011, 10:10:50 PM »

Got the other side to finish yet.  Sad
A pressie from Chevy Rick. We needed a header tank for the radiator, so I started combing Ebay for something suitable. Then Rick donated one from his Range Rover, taking it to the Picket Piece vehicle meet for Loony to collect. Rick, you're a star mate. Thank you.
Not sure if it's a standard R/Rover fitting cos it's brass. We thought we'd recess it into the bulkhead, on the opposite side from the gauges.
« Last Edit: April 28, 2011, 09:16:54 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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spanners
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« Reply #3039 on: April 27, 2011, 10:15:07 PM »

yep standard r/rover  early type,, the later /near the end of production were plastic ,,horrid,, things
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« Reply #3040 on: April 27, 2011, 10:26:20 PM »

Rick told me it was 9 carat gold.  Angry
We'll probably paint it black again, as there's nothing else in brass in the engine bay, then add a shiney retaining strap across the front.
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poprodder
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« Reply #3041 on: April 28, 2011, 08:15:27 AM »

i've one like that, was told it came of some triumph, which figures.
headers look good.
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spanners
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« Reply #3042 on: April 28, 2011, 08:20:18 AM »

yep triumphs had em

and i bet any the manky one chucked one out a while back Huh Roll Eyes Roll Eyes as they were fitted on sherpa vans too Tongue
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« Reply #3043 on: April 28, 2011, 09:50:14 PM »

Bugger. A couple of years now since I took the rear axle out of a 100 quid Sherpa van & scrapped the rest of it.
Apparently MGs & Midgets had similar expansion tanks too.
With the left bank of headers finished, I moved on to the connecting pipe between the collector & the silencer today.
I welded a stainless steel flange to a short length of 2 inch bore mild steel toob, slotted it over the end of the silencer, then sliced the tube & pulled it round until the flange met the collector. Some strategically placed tack welds & it's ready to fully weld so it's gas tight. 
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #3044 on: April 28, 2011, 09:53:39 PM »

I'm curious to hear how it runs once both silencers are hooked up.
4 inches of ground clearance under the cab.
« Last Edit: April 29, 2011, 09:38:29 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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