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ROD
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« on: September 14, 2012, 07:53:33 PM » |
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If I used a chassis with a car engine mounted in line at front,how would I transfer the power to the rear wheel? Could I use a rear wheel and parts from a shaft driven bike,then ,in basic terms,connect the propshaft from the engine to this? Im presuming they run on a 1:1 bevel box,therefore this wouldnt work? If not what else can be used?  |
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ROD
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« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2012, 08:15:29 PM » |
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So,what about using a car engine front mounted in line,g/box/prop and a diff from spitfire or Sierra. Weld up the diff inside,then fit a sprocket to one flange with a chain to rear wheel,then fit a disc to the rear car type wheel for the brake?
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hunter
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« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2012, 08:26:03 PM » |
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Rod when you say chassis,Do you mean car or tubular built,
If tube you could incorporate a bike wheel swingarm and suspension and stay with the shaft.
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I
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ROD
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« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2012, 08:33:09 PM » |
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Im actually thinking summat like a spitfire chassis/engine and box,chop chassis in front of rear wheels,mount swingarm with single wheel on.Mount diff with shortened prop.
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hunter
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« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2012, 08:54:49 PM » |
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Shouldn't be to difficult then,Get some box tube make yourself a subframe to take the swingarm.
Try and find yourself a modern swingarm and wheel.
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one arm bandit
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« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2012, 08:59:11 PM » |
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why not use a bevel box but backwards, gearbox to bevel box then chain from bevel to rear bike wheel, its far to complicated for me to work out if it will have 5 reverse speeds or 5 forward speeds, ile leave that to someone with thinking power  |
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ROD
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« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2012, 09:58:55 PM » |
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Think the spit diff idea is better,as keeps all the gearing more or less correct.Anyways,5 mins ago have commited to a complete spit chassis/eng/box etc,picking up tamara! So here we go again! Just need to get out in that workshop again,so bored!  Gotta now research/find sprockets and heavy duty chain.May use a Metro swing arm,or poss build my own might be better. COMMENTS PLEASE GUYS! |
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spanners
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« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2012, 10:39:58 PM » |
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whats the rear axle like ? is it on wire wheels by any chance |
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LIVE FAST and DIE YOUNG,, past 50 AND STILL HERE NOW. WAITING. FOR. THE. GRIM. REAPER
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ROD
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« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2012, 06:04:34 AM » |
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lol! No Mike ,frustratingly it isnt!He had already sold the wires and adaptors! Bugger!  |
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Olds
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« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2012, 06:23:52 AM » |
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Seeing as you now have the spit chassis and running gear i think that the idea of using the existing diff is probably the way to go, nowt to lose in trying . Metro rear radius arms ar cheap and strong, one on evilbay new for under £20 at the moment. Only real probs that i can see is the mounting of the rear sprocket, as the existing hub and brakes are within the wheel and moving the wheel outwards may put excessive forces on the stub axle. A deep dished sprocket sandwiched between the hub and brake disk might work. Good luck, you're gonna need it |
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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ROD
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« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2012, 06:47:49 AM » |
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Thanks!..designed this all in my head whilst trying to get to sleep last night! ............ What Im hoping to do is mount the (welded up internals) diff so that its output flanges are in line with the pivot point of the trailing arm. As far as I can fathom,this will mean the chain is always the correct tension as the arm moves up/down.Dont know how this achieved on a bike,cos dont'do' bikes! Because the diff will be in between the pivot points of the swing arm,it will need a custom built arm that has wide mounting points.I think this will be better for stability of the rear wheel anyway. I'll then machine up a hub to take either a Ford wheel(cos they have lots of different widths/offsets available on the same pcd)or maybe a spitfire wheel(cos that will mean one spare can be carried ) Im leaning toward a Ford wheel with Ford disc and caliper. Hopefully I can find summat that incorporates the h/brake.Will have to visit the local Ford breaker. The other way to go is have the caliper and disc mounted on the opposite side of the diff. This would be much easier,but I dont think a remote brake is MSVA compliant,probably cos if the chain snaps,you lose the rear brake.Gotta go research this ...... UPDATE...I was right ,the manual says that the brake has to be mounted directly to the wheel/hub,as does the h/brake. I think Mondeo's have h/brake in the rear calipers.Maybe Sierras as well. |
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« Last Edit: September 15, 2012, 07:03:26 AM by ROD »
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ROD
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« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2012, 07:05:01 AM » |
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So my next question........Are 'normal' m/cycle rear axles made from some sort of special steel?
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spanners
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« Reply #12 on: September 15, 2012, 07:34:54 AM » |
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got a couple of mondeo v6 rear hubs /calipers and discs ,, |
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LIVE FAST and DIE YOUNG,, past 50 AND STILL HERE NOW. WAITING. FOR. THE. GRIM. REAPER
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ROD
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« Reply #13 on: September 15, 2012, 12:28:21 PM » |
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Have they got the h/brake attachment Mike?
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Cabman77
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« Reply #14 on: September 15, 2012, 02:06:17 PM » |
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..........and Joshua entered Jericho on his Triumph..............
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