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Author Topic: Manky's Pop.  (Read 1553049 times)
Manky Monkey
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« Reply #2010 on: April 22, 2010, 04:23:23 PM »

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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
Manky Monkey
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« Reply #2011 on: April 22, 2010, 04:23:57 PM »

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panthershaun
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« Reply #2012 on: April 22, 2010, 04:33:47 PM »

nice job  Cool
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you ain't it, till you've "Bobbed" a Brit!!!
poprodder
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« Reply #2013 on: April 22, 2010, 05:48:08 PM »

very neat.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #2014 on: April 24, 2010, 05:28:26 PM »

I added a couple of triangular gussets top & bottom of the box section today, then tack-welded the whole ensemble to the tubular framework that loops under the dashboard. I'll eventually glue a strip of thick rubber to the inside of the box section, where the pedal arm stops against it, so that it doesn't clang every time you take your foot off the gas. Job done.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #2015 on: April 24, 2010, 05:31:54 PM »

Following PopRodder's post in his Pop build thread about swivel bearings to support the bottom of the steering column where it passes through the bulkhead, I ordered a 7/8" bore one. It arrived today. Including postage, it came to 16 quid. From bearingboys.co.uk
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poprodder
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« Reply #2016 on: April 24, 2010, 09:05:43 PM »

i've been fitting mine tonight!!!
excellent service from them. 
will put some pics up on my thread tomorrow.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #2017 on: April 26, 2010, 07:58:42 PM »

I haven't got a bulkhead to fit mine to yet, but it's a perfect fit on the bottom of the steering column. It's held in place by 2 tiny grub screws.
I've shortened the V shaped column hanging bracket a bit more to tidy it up. Next job is to add mounting tabs to the frame loop under the dash & hang the column in place.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #2018 on: April 26, 2010, 07:59:36 PM »

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« Reply #2019 on: April 26, 2010, 08:00:37 PM »

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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #2020 on: April 27, 2010, 08:41:43 PM »

Steering column fitted.
I made new mounting tabs to weld to the loop under the dash & we shuffled the column around until we got the best compromise of clearance for the shaft between chassis & starter motor, clearance for the driver's hand between steering wheel & door & got the wheel sitting as square to the dashboard as we could. 
Loony's spent the afternoon clambering around in the cab, welding up as many tacked together chassis sections as he could reach. Managed to get most of it done before giving up when he ran out of places to sit that weren't red hot from welding.   Cheesy
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #2021 on: April 27, 2010, 08:46:25 PM »

Squatting in an imaginary driver's seat, Loony tried the steering, pedals & gearchange & pronounced them all working well & comfortable to use. That's lucky then.
In a moment of boredom we uncovered the shiny red snooker ball gear knob that Doc machined for us. It's been covered in a protective layer of masking tape, so it's bound to get scratched now.
« Last Edit: April 28, 2010, 08:01:19 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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poprodder
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« Reply #2022 on: April 27, 2010, 09:22:29 PM »

looking very nice, amazing the different steering wheel angles people have in pops, mines totally different with measurements from my daily.
i'm guessing theres a lot less room in your pick up. i've managed to get 2 ft  between seat and pedals.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #2023 on: April 27, 2010, 10:10:58 PM »

I can get both feet between the seat & pedals too!
I had a sit in a couple of 40s/50s American pick-ups at Derek's barbeque the other night, (the guy has an amazing collection of vehicles in his yard). I was suprised how little room there was in such big trucks -made my Pop seem positively spacious.
In that last pic, the front edge of the seat will be level with the cross member, behind the front flange of the propshaft.
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« Reply #2024 on: April 28, 2010, 08:07:40 PM »

Had a quick measure today- 18 inches between the front edge of the seat & the pedals.
I arrived at the workshop late this afternoon to find Loony had finished welding as many chassis joints as he could reach, then got bored. So he'd cut open one of the tacked shut doors. There's no sills yet to tie the front & back of the cab together, so he had to add a couple of extra tack welds to pin the cab to the chassis. But now we have a door that opens & closes -just like a real car!
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