Manky's XS650 Yamaha

[Manky Monkey]

Yeah, I was going to put them about 6" into the pipe end, so they can't be seen. O.K, no wadding first then.

[mrhutch]

didn't know that about conical baffles, makes sense

ta Olds

[Manky Monkey]

Captive nuts welded into the baffles & the damaged paint on the tank rubbed back, ready for Mr Loon to spray in 2 pack high build primer.
I'd really like to ride this to the Nostalgia Nationals drag races at Shakespeare County Raceway in Stratford on Avon, which gives me just a couple of weeks to get the tank done, exhausts done & the clutch rebuilt, plus the new carbs fitted & tuned. Oh & an MOT & tax. Easy. 

[Manky Monkey]

*Sigh*
5 hours spent on the clutch this afternoon & I'm just about ready to beat the cr*p out of the thing with a hammer.
New worm drive fitted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8EJ4oBWNe8

New pushrod fitted -it's a new style, one piece one instead of the old 2 piece with ball bearing in between type. Might not look it in this photo but they're exactly the same length.

[Manky Monkey]

New clutch plates already fitted, but I took them out again & checked them. All look O.K -a little black gunge in the oil in the clutch basket, but it looks like fibre dust from the friction plates mixed with the oil. 5 steel plates & 6 friction ones as previously stated. There's also another steel plate which sits against the back of the basket & I wasn't sure if that should be one of the 5 steels. Tom's got my Haynes manual, but I checked a couple of YouTube how-to videos, (the wonder of Smart Phones), & I'm pretty sure it's 5 plus that one. If it wasn't, the first friction plate would sit directly against the inside face of the basket.

[Manky Monkey]

Opened the box of new clutch springs & ...poo. They ain't right. Nothing like the originals & what are those 3 screws for? The springs are far too short & don't even fit onto the shaft of the screws. So back to the old ones.

[Manky Monkey]

With the clutch basket cover on & the old springs refitted, I hooked up the cable to the worm drive.
Still not right. With everything adjusted as far as possible, the plates move maybe 3mm when the lever's pulled right in to the bars. Looking at this video, that seems to be about all this guy's move:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oYFW1rycKU
But it's not enough to disengage the drive -when I put the bike in gear & rock it back & forth, it's not releasing. That's with the adjusting screw on the worm drive screwed in until there's no free play & the cable adjusters at both ends on their maximum setting.
Really don't know what to do now, although hitting it with a hammer's a tempting option. Maybe the friction plates are too thick? Maybe they need really soaking in oil so they slip more? Maybe there's not enough travel in the new worm drive to move the pushrod & push the plates apart?
With the lever pulled in, I can push a screw driver, (carefully), between the plates, so they are separating, but apparently not enough. Shouldn't have to have everything on it's maximum adjustment either.
I'd planned to get most of the jobs done this afternoon, but fell at the first hurdle.
I'll go back to the garage in the morning, with a fresh eye & see if I've missed anything. I'll have another look at the worm drive to check it's moving freely & maybe try the old one again. Maybe the plates just need some use to bed in & wear down a little, but it stalls when you try to change gear, so isn't rideable as it is.
Any suggestions before I fetch my hammer?

[stinkey]

Go home n have a cuppa/pint and leave it for a while ?

[Manky Monkey]

Yeah, that's what I decided. Got to wheel it out of the garage to work on it & ended up getting rained off, so gave up for the evening. Never ever buy a motorcycle, that's my advice. 

[Olds]

Think those short red springs may be cush drive springs and the screws woulld be to replace the rivets.
Are you using the standard clutch lever or at least one with the same amount of cable movement ?

[Clive]

What he said^^ (about the Cush drive springs)

https://www.mikesxs.net/parts/yamaha-xs650-clutch-hub-cush-spring-repair-kit

[Manky Monkey]

Aah, yes. Of course you're both right. Thanks. They'll be in the spares pile for future use then.
It's a pattern lever Dave, bought from YamBits, so ought to be right.
Woke up to rain this morning, which is refreshing after the heat of the last week, but means I can't work outside till it stops, so can't work on either my bike or my truck.
So- clutch basket assembly all looks good, spring bolts are tightened down correctly, pushrod moves freely, new lever is pulling the new cable correctly as far as I know. I'm guessing the worm drive mechanism isn't sitting at the right angle, so that it runs out of travel as it winds out. I'll take a look at that first later. May need to use the operating arm from the old one on the base of the new one. Nothing's ever easy is it. 

[BikerGran]

I've had that problem with the worm drive thingy on my GT when refitting the cover.  Do it the same every time, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.  No idea if yours is anything like mine of course, but you seem to have to have it in a certain position - no idea what that position is though.  Very frustrating.

[Manky Monkey]

Certainly is Bobbi.
Well I took the lefthand cover off again & checked the worm drive. New one installed, compared to the old one.

[Manky Monkey]

You can see that the new one has 2 clevis holes. I've tried the cable fitting in both.
The outermost hole effectively makes the arm longer, which makes the clutch lever feel softer, but gives less clutch plate movement for the amount of lever travel.
The inner hole makes the arm shorter, so a stiffer lever but it pushes the pushrod further, so separating the clutch plates more.
I decided to go with the inner hole, which is in the same as the old worm drive.