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twisted
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« Reply #480 on: August 29, 2014, 12:19:35 AM » |
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Olds. I will try connecting up that pipe and see if it helps. Spanners. I am using halfords vintage 20/50w oil. Thick and green like olive oil  Fifer. I will have a closer look at the gaps and look at fitting a washer. If I've got a big hole and thin shaft  any ideas on a fix? Metal putty and file it back? Cheers guys |
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a man with a fork in a world full of soup
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fifer
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« Reply #481 on: August 29, 2014, 07:47:51 AM » |
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Do you have the standard Reliant breather cap with the gauze still fitted ?
If blocked it causes back pressure in the crankcase .
If it is the standard breather cap , check if it is bunged up by removing the cap and , away from the engine , turn it upside down and pour petrol into the gauze .
The petrol should pour right through in a steady stream .
If blocked , rinse thoroughly until the petrol runs through easily , dry and refit .
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Doing that might be enough to stop the leak from the distributor hole .
A thin " O " ring or gasket under the clamp plate might help as well .
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Confucious ; He say that man who take woman up hill , him not on level
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morrag
Hero Member
Karma: 49
Posts: 2875
Carpe diem!
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« Reply #482 on: August 29, 2014, 04:04:27 PM » |
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Is it not possible to machine the distributor body to accept an "O" ring?.Morrag
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Beware the Ides of March, But!
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digger06
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« Reply #483 on: August 30, 2014, 03:52:23 PM » |
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every reliant dizzy I own already has an O ring on there, try a slightly thicker one?
nothing silly like too much oil in there is there?
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twisted
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« Reply #484 on: September 02, 2014, 04:01:52 PM » |
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update. removed the dizzy and found that the new O ring we had put in had split  . so put a new one on. whilst at it i put a washer under the bracket that holds the dizzy in place to space it correctly and also took the pipe from the breather out of my catchment bottle and connected it up to the carb. one or all of those three things seem to have cured the problem  so far no more oil down the side of the engine. onwards and upwards cheers again for the advice everyone. strangely although i only live about a mile from work it seems to be taking me 45mins and about 20 miles to get home |
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a man with a fork in a world full of soup
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Olds
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« Reply #485 on: September 02, 2014, 07:58:23 PM » |
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strangely although i only live about a mile from work it seems to be taking me 45mins and about 20 miles to get home Glad to hear the problem is sorted and that you are enjoying using the trike. |
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Manky Monkey
Administrator
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« Reply #486 on: September 02, 2014, 08:10:12 PM » |
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Well done lad -just what it was built for!
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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merv
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« Reply #487 on: September 02, 2014, 08:38:11 PM » |
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Well done Craig
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
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gazzagood
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« Reply #488 on: September 02, 2014, 08:51:53 PM » |
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Glad you got it sorted. happy riding b safe
Gaz
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I always know what I'm doing. Can you help me
PLEASE
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terry t
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« Reply #489 on: September 02, 2014, 09:01:40 PM » |
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update. removed the dizzy and found that the new O ring we had put in had split . so put a new one on. whilst at it i put a washer under the bracket that holds the dizzy in place to space it correctly and also took the pipe from the breather out of my catchment bottle and connected it up to the carb. one or all of those three things seem to have cured the problem so far no more oil down the side of the engine. onwards and upwards cheers again for the advice everyone. strangely although i only live about a mile from work it seems to be taking me 45mins and about 20 miles to get home I have heard the traffic around the A40 is bad , glad you got it sorted Craig now you can enjoy riding it  |
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andyrennison
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« Reply #490 on: September 02, 2014, 10:28:46 PM » |
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update. removed the dizzy and found that the new O ring we had put in had split . so put a new one on. whilst at it i put a washer under the bracket that holds the dizzy in place to space it correctly and also took the pipe from the breather out of my catchment bottle and connected it up to the carb. one or all of those three things seem to have cured the problem so far no more oil down the side of the engine. onwards and upwards cheers again for the advice everyone. strangely although i only live about a mile from work it seems to be taking me 45mins and about 20 miles to get home Making good time rather than quick time hey! (Thanks to Robert Pirsig for that insight) |
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Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle,
and the life of the candle will not be shortened.
Happiness never decreases by being shared
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twisted
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« Reply #491 on: September 07, 2014, 10:47:54 PM » |
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making good time i like that fitted a temperature gauge and the temp sender it came with today so i could keep an eye on things. have a problem. after fitting i took her out for a run and the gauge read 110 before my fan kicked in but i have a fan switch fitted which comes on at about 90! because she is not blowing water out the rad ,as i am sure she would if the temp was actually 110, i am guessing that either i have done something wrong or the new sender/gauge is faulty? any ideas? sender and gauge are earthed to frame at same point as fan switch. one feed from sender goes to one terminal on gauge, live to gauge from the coil nearby. i have then looped from the live and earth to the terminals to make the gauge light come on. anyone see anything i am doing wrong there? this is the gauge i bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171126336749?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT |
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a man with a fork in a world full of soup
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scannerzer
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« Reply #492 on: September 08, 2014, 06:10:29 AM » |
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may try taking the supply voltage from a voltage regulator or sourse rather than the coil as a varing voltage will give a false reading the other thing is to check what the temp actually is,we fitted a guage similar to this in Alans camper and it read high we had to put a variable resistor in line with the sender and set the guage to read what the temp was on the external guage ,in this case my multimeter
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fifer
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« Reply #493 on: September 08, 2014, 07:54:41 AM » |
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Confucious ; He say that man who take woman up hill , him not on level
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Olds
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« Reply #494 on: September 08, 2014, 10:14:42 PM » |
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If changing the feed doesn't help it's easy to add a resistor and they cost pence from somewhere like Maplin.
Run the engine until the gauge shows what you think is the correct running temp. remove the lead and check the resistance at the sender. Then run the engine until the engine reaches actual operating temp measure the resistance again. The resistor value you need is the difference between the two readings.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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