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Author Topic: my new trike project  (Read 200671 times)
twisted
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« Reply #390 on: June 17, 2014, 08:51:13 AM »

ok i have found someone selling fernox F3 near me. if i get this stuff how do i use it? whats the mix ratio to water?
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a man with a fork in a world full of soup
the coppersmith
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« Reply #391 on: June 17, 2014, 10:31:19 AM »

You cannot overdose this stuff, or use to much to cause damage. I bought a bottle and threw in half of it, my mate who is a boiler fitter, threw the other half in ! I then ran it for a week or two and got it nice and hot, seems it works better when hot. Drained while hot to, seems it keeps the crud in suspension I was shocked at what came out. Good luck.
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twisted
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« Reply #392 on: June 18, 2014, 11:55:36 AM »

so hope to pick up 500ml of fernox f3 tonight, have ordered new rad cap and a co2 tester kit. have been running her round a bit more locally, cant resist it, and she seems to be behaving a bit better after the last flush. water in over flow is only a bit discoloured and has some scum on top. but no burps that i have seen and the bottle isnt filling up any more. there are small bubbles that i see coming out the pipe but the test kit i have ordered should let me know where these are coming from. few pops and holding back a touch but still have to adjust timeing so that should fix that.
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a man with a fork in a world full of soup
twisted
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« Reply #393 on: June 20, 2014, 08:17:17 PM »

Well the co2 test kit turned up today so after work I done the test........... Cry not good. Fluid went yellow which means that gases are getting into cooling system gasket gone. Will have to split it and get a gasket kit. Off to find something to drink.
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a man with a fork in a world full of soup
merv
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« Reply #394 on: June 20, 2014, 08:25:11 PM »

Hope your head comes of better than what mine did
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
terry t
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« Reply #395 on: June 20, 2014, 08:39:16 PM »

Well the co2 test kit turned up today so after work I done the test........... Cry not good. Fluid went yellow which means that gases are getting into cooling system gasket gone. Will have to split it and get a gasket kit. Off to find something to drink.
Sorry to hear this Craig, have a look at this I was told it works or your money back
http://www.autosessive.com/products/61766/blown-head-gasket-repair
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scannerzer
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« Reply #396 on: June 20, 2014, 08:40:34 PM »

would you not try steel seal or k seal first just to see if it cures it?

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scannerzer
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« Reply #397 on: June 20, 2014, 08:41:58 PM »

it appears great minds think alike Terry we must have been typing that at almost the exact same time Grin
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twisted
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« Reply #398 on: June 20, 2014, 09:33:27 PM »

Had never heard of it before. Anyone every used it? Thoughts on it?
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a man with a fork in a world full of soup
kapri
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« Reply #399 on: June 20, 2014, 09:49:01 PM »

I've used K seal before with good results though it didn't seal a missing section of gasket on a wet linered block on a Honda. Then again it would have been a miracle if it had !
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hunter
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« Reply #400 on: June 20, 2014, 10:40:26 PM »

Has anyone tried this.
http://www.steelseal.co.uk/buy-now
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I
fifer
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WWW
« Reply #401 on: June 20, 2014, 10:57:40 PM »

Instead of wasting money on gasket sealers . my advice would be to buy something similar to ;  

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reliant-Robin-Rialto-Fox-Kitten-Top-End-Head-Gasket-Set-Leaded-Engines-/181425706798?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a3dd0972e

Be aware that basically there are 2 types of head gaskets ; One which has a red sealant around it and one as per link above which does not have the sealant
See my site for photo ;

https://plus.google.com/photos/103091462939236424092/albums/5554044222149616865/5883169114695550946?banner=pwa&pid=5883169114695550946&oid=103091462939236424092
...................................................................

https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintsandtips/cylinder-head
Info below copied from my site link above ;


CYLINDER HEAD ; TORQUE SETTINGS FOR 850 ENGINE

ENGINE

Manifold Nuts ......................... 5/16 UNF .......... 12 ft/lb - 15 ft/lb .
Rocker Shaft Supports ..............3/8 UNF ........... 17 ft/lb - 22 ft/lb .
Spark Plugs .................................................. ... 15 ft/lb .
........................................................................

NOTE ; RELIANT ISSUED AN UPDATED TORQUE SETTING AMENDMENT FOR THE 3/8 UNF CYLINDER HEAD NUTS AS PER ;

Cylinder Head Nuts ; NUMBERED 1 to 10 ................. 3/8 UNF ............ 25 ft/lb .

Cylinder Head Nuts ; NUMBERED 11 to 12 ............... 3/8 UNF ............ 20 ft/lb .

Cylinder Head Nuts .................................................. 5/16 UNF .......... 15 ft/lb .

NOTE THE FOLLOWING ADDITIONAL INFO FROM RELIANT ;
Cylinder head nuts MUST be re-torqued after running in .*

Nuts should be backed off1/2 turn & re-tightened to the recommended torque


...........................................................
My Comments
Remember when torquing to start at 5 lb/ft then 10 then 15 then 20 and finally 25 { remembering to only torque studs 11 and 12 to 20 lb/ft

I personally would not back the nut of half a turn and I only do 1/8 turn .

*
If you torque the cylinder head then wait till you have done the recommended 500 miles , chances are that you will develop head gasket problems !
The gasket will have compressed /bedded in after the first heat up / cool down cycle .

After the first heat up / cool down cycle as above , let it lie dormant for 8 hours or so and then whip the rocker cover off and the rocker shaft and retorque .
Run it back up to hot again and let it cool down .

Let it lie dormant for another 8 hours or so  and then whip the rocker cover off and the rocker shaft and retorque .
Run it back up to hot again and let it cool down .

Should be ready for many trouble free head gasket miles .



« Last Edit: June 20, 2014, 11:04:20 PM by fifer » Logged

Confucious ; He say that man who take woman up hill , him not on level
terry t
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« Reply #402 on: June 21, 2014, 07:31:05 AM »

Instead of wasting money on gasket sealers . my advice would be to buy something similar to ;  

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reliant-Robin-Rialto-Fox-Kitten-Top-End-Head-Gasket-Set-Leaded-Engines-/181425706798?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a3dd0972e

Be aware that basically there are 2 types of head gaskets ; One which has a red sealant around it and one as per link above which does not have the sealant
See my site for photo ;

https://plus.google.com/photos/103091462939236424092/albums/5554044222149616865/5883169114695550946?banner=pwa&pid=5883169114695550946&oid=103091462939236424092
...................................................................

https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintsandtips/cylinder-head
Info below copied from my site link above ;


CYLINDER HEAD ; TORQUE SETTINGS FOR 850 ENGINE

ENGINE

Manifold Nuts ......................... 5/16 UNF .......... 12 ft/lb - 15 ft/lb .
Rocker Shaft Supports ..............3/8 UNF ........... 17 ft/lb - 22 ft/lb .
Spark Plugs .................................................. ... 15 ft/lb .
........................................................................

NOTE ; RELIANT ISSUED AN UPDATED TORQUE SETTING AMENDMENT FOR THE 3/8 UNF CYLINDER HEAD NUTS AS PER ;

Cylinder Head Nuts ; NUMBERED 1 to 10 ................. 3/8 UNF ............ 25 ft/lb .

Cylinder Head Nuts ; NUMBERED 11 to 12 ............... 3/8 UNF ............ 20 ft/lb .

Cylinder Head Nuts .................................................. 5/16 UNF .......... 15 ft/lb .

NOTE THE FOLLOWING ADDITIONAL INFO FROM RELIANT ;
Cylinder head nuts MUST be re-torqued after running in .*

Nuts should be backed off1/2 turn & re-tightened to the recommended torque


...........................................................
My Comments
Remember when torquing to start at 5 lb/ft then 10 then 15 then 20 and finally 25 { remembering to only torque studs 11 and 12 to 20 lb/ft

I personally would not back the nut of half a turn and I only do 1/8 turn .

*
If you torque the cylinder head then wait till you have done the recommended 500 miles , chances are that you will develop head gasket problems !
The gasket will have compressed /bedded in after the first heat up / cool down cycle .

After the first heat up / cool down cycle as above , let it lie dormant for 8 hours or so and then whip the rocker cover off and the rocker shaft and retorque .
Run it back up to hot again and let it cool down .

Let it lie dormant for another 8 hours or so  and then whip the rocker cover off and the rocker shaft and retorque .
Run it back up to hot again and let it cool down .

Should be ready for many trouble free head gasket miles .





What like other members who done a head gasket change and still had the same problems, if its only affecting the water side on the gasket try the sealer
« Last Edit: June 21, 2014, 07:40:16 AM by terry t » Logged
twisted
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Posts: 879



« Reply #403 on: June 23, 2014, 07:35:55 PM »

After alot of thought I have decided to pull the head off. Gasket and valve seals ordered. Had to remove rockercover studs and rocker studs then unmount engine and move it sideways to get it out. Now to get it skimmed, valve seals put on then clean and put back together  Smiley
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a man with a fork in a world full of soup
terry t
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Karma: 35
Posts: 2475



« Reply #404 on: June 23, 2014, 08:01:39 PM »

After alot of thought I have decided to pull the head off. Gasket and valve seals ordered. Had to remove rockercover studs and rocker studs then unmount engine and move it sideways to get it out. Now to get it skimmed, valve seals put on then clean and put back together  Smiley
Hope it all goes to plan Craig, and your back on the road soon Smiley
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