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Author Topic: my new trike project  (Read 200700 times)
hornet6
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« Reply #60 on: September 21, 2012, 04:32:46 PM »

Hi...just looking in as an outsider on this thread. If it was possible,Ime sure these could be made in stainless for less than that amount.
All you need is a long reach 32mm elbow, and then some clever sod to laser cut the 2 flanges. Then another clever sod to tig weld em up.Looking at the photo of the set up on the trike,it looks fairly simple to achieve. If a jig was made they would turn out all the same.  Grin Grin
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Olds
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« Reply #61 on: September 21, 2012, 05:46:20 PM »

Half the fun of building a trike is making the bits you can't find, can't afford or just to see if you can.
Mine was made with a hacksaw, electric hand drill and an old stick welder and files. Not a laser cutter in sight Grin
Dont get me wrong, i'd love to have access to a mill, flowjet cutter,decent tig etc but you make do with what you have.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2012, 06:18:30 PM by Old Newbie » Logged

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steven brock
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« Reply #62 on: September 21, 2012, 05:51:12 PM »

I'd better not show you my latest laser cut job then.. Lol
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hornet6
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« Reply #63 on: September 21, 2012, 06:03:57 PM »

Right steve....you cut the flanges and send em to me..I will order the elbow and tig weld it all together. Job done. Grin Grin
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zakboy
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« Reply #64 on: September 21, 2012, 06:53:16 PM »

Right steve....you cut the flanges and send em to me..I will order the elbow and tig weld it all together. Job done. Grin Grin
your the best man for the job John  Wink
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steven brock
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« Reply #65 on: September 21, 2012, 07:31:47 PM »

Sorry but I'm not running a stainless cutting job in the near future.. For a one off it's probably easier to do the ole fashioned way
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zakboy
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« Reply #66 on: September 21, 2012, 08:13:15 PM »

Any one with a lathe and face plate could drill the flanges to center and bore the holes out to size
« Last Edit: September 21, 2012, 08:15:47 PM by zakboy » Logged

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twisted
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« Reply #67 on: September 21, 2012, 10:00:40 PM »

cheers everyone for the help. this adaptor thing is driving me up the wall because i cant even attempt to do it  Angry. i have never been near a welder of any kind and next to no tools here or at my place of work.
anyone that could make me one would help me out alot and it would be very appreciated.
i would really like a bigger tank on her to get me further, change the lines a bit and i have the memory of a fish so i dont want to be stuck in the middle of nowhere with no go go juice.
but i have tried to start making stuff for her. with the few tools i have at work ( hacksaw, vice, file and rivet gun ) i have started to make a cover for the starter motor bit that i was told might try to eat my trouser leg.
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb347/twistedspirit76/mobile%20pics/IMG-20120921-WA0008_zps7d1274c4.jpg
my new trike project

once i start her and make sure nothing is rubbing i might neaten it up a bit with fiberglass then paint it.
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twisted
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« Reply #68 on: September 21, 2012, 10:05:06 PM »

does the adaptor have to have a bend in it? cant it just come straight of the manifold and go out to the left at an angle?
does the carburettor need to sit at that slight angle to work or can it sit up straight?
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triker_Chewie
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« Reply #69 on: September 22, 2012, 03:18:51 AM »

carbie is sendig atomised fuel to the engine. curves are best as the fuel may hit a "wall" and liquefy
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ROD
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« Reply #70 on: September 22, 2012, 05:22:47 AM »

'tis a shame some of us dont live closer to each other,as something like this could be knocked up by a couple of guys ,even with basic tools,(and a welder!) in a workshop/shed in quick time.
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Olds
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« Reply #71 on: September 22, 2012, 05:46:44 AM »

The carb is designed to be at that angle and you should try to keep it as close to that as possible, a few degrees either way wont make much difference though.
You really have to find the tank you want, fit it and see what space is left. Your existing tank seems to sit quite high relative to the engine so if you are after a similar but slightly larger one you may be able to get away with just changing your existing adaptor studs for longer ones and fitting a thick insulating spacer (or two) as fitted to minis etc can't remember off hand how thick they are but about 3/4"-"1 I think". Be warned, new they are expensive, but there are plenty of old minis about.
OR you could fit a rear mounted tank and not worry about the size of the existing tank etc. Grin
PS liking the goose necked frame.
PPS in the photo of the trouser eater guard I think I see a brake pipe below the frame, I suggest you move it to above the brake pivot and bottom frame line, road humps and misplaced jacks tend to crush pipes (and the MSVA man wont like it).
« Last Edit: September 22, 2012, 06:19:30 AM by Old Newbie » Logged

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steven brock
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« Reply #72 on: September 22, 2012, 06:43:32 AM »

Are these earlier gearbox housings? mine is cast with no hole and a mini/rover starter Huh
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Olds
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« Reply #73 on: September 22, 2012, 06:56:56 AM »

Yep,  for inertia type starter motors. Nicer lookin with no massive solenoid stuck on the side to dig into your leg.
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nabsim
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« Reply #74 on: September 22, 2012, 08:28:57 AM »

If you get the inlet manifold from a 750 engine it is 90 degrees around so carb faces from or back depending which way you mount it. I will se if I have any pics of it kicking about but if you use the 750 inlet and the Zenith carb you can fit a standard tank. Well my Jawa frame had a CX500 tank fitted and it cleared okay.

There isn't a problem running the Zenith with the 850 or the SU with the 750, some of these were mixed and matched from the factory. Bet Fifer can give more detail on this
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