Manky's Pop.

[gsxrsam]

Cos the one that's fitted is ugly with a capital UGG Tony. I want to keep the engine as self contained as I can, without extra bits & pieces bolted to the body panels around it & there's nowhere convenient to hide that. I was planning on replacing the coil, condensor, points, plugs etc anyway, so will look for a coil with a built-on resistor. I bought one for Taz's trike, then sold it on to another forum member, so I know they're available.
Again Sam, I don't understand vehicle electrics at all, & just feel more comfortable with more basic, non electronic stuff. At least you stand a chance of repairing it at the roadside if you have to, (yeah, I know you'll probably have to more often, but if the black box packs up, you're buggered).

i have a brand fire new one somewhere mister man.

sam.

[Manky Monkey]

A brand new what exactly Mr Sam?

[tbone]

100 pages ago  !

[gsxrsam]

A brand new what exactly Mr Sam?

new rover dizzy, or if you like i have a chevy twin points one thats been used.

sam.

[Manky Monkey]

I can't remember yesterday Tim, let alone 100 pages ago! I was kinda right though -there was a gauge involved. A tacho.
Your new distributor Sam -you mean an electronic ignition set-up?

[gsxrsam]

yep, add 12volts and go.

sam.

[Manky Monkey]

Spent a couple of hours this afternoon wrestling lengths of copper brake pipe around the chassis, plumbing the front brakes into the remote dual circuit servo under the dashboard. Not much to see, so no photos today.
A quick question- the dual circuit master cylinder has 2 outlets. Does it matter which one feeds the front & which feeds the back brakes? I know the difference between them would be miniscule, but which would act first, the outlet nearest the pedal pushrod, or the one at the other end of the cylinder? I'm assuming the brake fluid would operate all 4 brakes more or less simultaneously, but is there any sort of MOT test rule for which pipe connects to where on the master cylinder? Just need to know before I route the pipes under the floor.

[tbone]

As far as I`M aware, there is no legislation, what does surprise me though is that you are going front and rear and not diagonal.
The outlet nearest the pedal pushrod will be the first to act, but the difference as you say, would not be noticed.

[Manky Monkey]

Front & rear's a damn sight easier to plumb in Tim. Very tight for space so we're having to be quite creative with the pipe routes.The annoying thing is it'll all have to come out again at some point to fully weld the underside of the chassis & to paint it, which'll mean having to bend the brake pipes almost straight again to get them off.

[poprodder]

andy,
if you've used copper be carefull after you've bent them straight as when you rebend they could work harden and crack.
i would use kunifer, but thats just my view. i know copper is easier to use.

[NeilG]

It's the opposite of what seems normal,the front master cylinder outlet is plumbed to the rear brakes, and the rear outlet goes to the front brakes.Normally one port is bigger than the other,so more pressure for the fronts.

Might be worth an web search on copper brake lines,illegal in a few countries now  
Does depend if they are a copper/alloy mix

Like poprodder said, kunifer is best and not many more pennies.


Sorry to be so gloomy  

[Manky Monkey]

I just used "copper" as a generic term. It's nickel/copper, bought from the local auto spares shop a couple of days ago.

Picked up another switch unit at the Hotrod Drags today. I've already got a new indicator stalk, which clamps around the steering column & has an iluminated end. This one's similar but is chromed instead of black plastic & also incorporates a hazard warning switch. There are 2 green warning lights for the indicators & a red one for the hazards, though the seller said he wasn't sure there were bulb units in them. It was 17 quid so worth a go. If I don't like it, I'll use the other one.

[twolanes]

Master cylinder= large reservoir feeds front discs (as they need more fluid than drums). Gearbox rubber hoses= make sure they are for oil otherwise they will fall apart internally & knacker your box.       Distributor= you can fit a points dizzy from an earlier rover V8 & do away with the electronic stuff.
Looking fantastic in the photos mate, huge WELL DONE to you guys.

[Manky Monkey]

Cheers Dave. Looked for you at the drags on Sunday. Several Chargers there, but not the big black 'un.
The oil cooler lines were made up by a local hydraulics specialist & I did tell them they were for a cooler, so hopefully they're O.K. Got to go back there today, (my day off), to get some more P clips for brake & cooler lines, so will double check with them.
GSXRSAM has an electronic dizzy, but, to be honest, what I've already got seemed to work fine last time we ran it, & I'm old fashioned enough not to really trust black boxes full of leccy gizzmos. I'd like to lose the ballast resistor though, or at least fit a smaller tidier one out of sight somewhere. I checked a few other Rover engines at the drag meet & none seemed to be running the resistor.

[poprodder]

think i've got a ballast resister here you can have, never used.