Manky's Pop.

[hunter]

And most importantly,

          Half the price of a rebuild.

[BikerGran]

And half the time!



Look at it another way, you were really lucky to get away with the driving you did last year!

[bigdarren]

cant do till after 4mate

[Manky Monkey]

Hiya Daz. I was going to give you a shout tomorrow.    Any evening next week if you're free, (obviously I shall buy you a jelly baby or 2 for your troubles). The engine's actually in Woodley, on the outskirts of Reading.
Yeah Bobbi, we were on borrowed time with the engine I guess, but had a lot of fun in it, (the trip to Holland will be remembered for a long time to come).
While the engine's out I hope to clean up some of the half done bits in the engine bay. If I can get it fixed, running O.K, MOT'd & taxed before I go back to work in 2 1/2 week's time, I'll be happy.

[kapri]

DON'T mess with the half done bits, just get it in and running!  One in ,one out in a day, no probs. Just don't forget to order exhaust gaskets, fresh oil, antifreeze, new oil filte,r VASELINE ( for oil pump )  etc so they are there for when you do the job.

[merv]

Hi Kapri
Vaseline for oil pump, would you explain this please has I haven't heard of this and whatever you do with the Vaseline would you do for all car fitted oil pumps.

Thanks in advance of reply
   

[Olds]

Certain oil pumps are not very good at self priming (Rover/Buick V8 in particular). That is to say sucking up the oil from dry. A bit of Vaseline packed into the pump gives it that bit of extra suction at first start up. Not needed during normal oil changes but if the engine has been left without oil for a long period or has been rebuilt it is a good idea. We also used to crank engines, without ignition (or fuel), until oil reached the rockers. The pump should have been packed on rebuild. Might be worth asking/ checking.
Hope you don't mind me butting in Kapri

[Manky Monkey]

So cranking the motor over with the distributor cap off would be enough? I've never professed to be a mechanic. I know what goes on inside an engine, but fault diagnosis & set-up/tuning have never been my strong point. I'm going to be extremely short of money for the next couple of weeks -I can just about pay for the engine, so need to keep the extras to the bare minimum, (obviously without risk to the new motor).
Looks like we'll have to pull the engine & gearbox out together as there's probably not enough room to split them in situ, (only about 4" of clearance between the front pulley & front chassis rail).

[Olds]

Not sure you can call oil, antifreeze etc. extras.
Cranking without the ignition or fuel just ensures oil has got fully around the engine before running. Last thing you need is to find that the engine has been dry assembled and it starts up dry. And yep it has been done.

[kapri]

Certain oil pumps are not very good at self priming (Rover/Buick V8 in particular). That is to say sucking up the oil from dry. A bit of Vaseline packed into the pump gives it that bit of extra suction at first start up. Not needed during normal oil changes but if the engine has been left without oil for a long period or has been rebuilt it is a good idea. We also used to crank engines, without ignition (or fuel), until oil reached the rockers. The pump should have been packed on rebuild. Might be worth asking/ checking.
Hope you don't mind me butting in Kapri

Not a problem Dave    Rovers ( and Buicks on which they are based) all need the pump packing as full as you can get it.

[kapri]

Andy, I'm presuming it has no valley gasket etc fitted so the cam lobes etc will need a good coating of oil .

Now, going to be more expense if you give the wrong answer but is it a NEW cam and lifters ?

[kapri]

"Listen carefully, I shall say this only once"

4" is perfectly adequate to remove engine from the box as you only need enough room to pop the flexplate out of the gearbox but NOT with teh torque convertor. If you pull the engine and box out together you will lose your trans fluid as well.

There is either a cover plate that allows access to the torque convertor bolts or you get to them once the starter is removed.

Remove the tc bolts from the flex plate and push the tc back in the gearbox .It is imperative that throughout the rest of the job it STAYS there . If it slips forward it can pop the front trans seal which won't be apparent until you reassemble and start it again

Use a jack under the bellhousing to prevent it dropping down allowing the t/c to slide forward and to be doubly sure as soon as you get a gap between the engine and box make a small cranked bracket, held on via a now unused bellhousing bolt to retain it there .


If you pop the convertor from the gearbox you will, pop that front seal and lose all the fluid. You will then also have to hold the gearbox on end while aligning the two internal splines plus external 'tanged' oil pump drive.

[spanners]

"Listen carefully, I shall say this only once"

4" is perfectly adequate to remove engine from the box as you only need enough room to pop the flexplate out of the gearbox but NOT with teh torque convertor. If you pull the engine and box out together you will lose your trans fluid as well.

There is either a cover plate that allows access to the torque convertor bolts or you get to them once the starter is removed.

Remove the tc bolts from the flex plate and push the tc back in the gearbox .It is imperative that throughout the rest of the job it STAYS there . If it slips forward it can pop the front trans seal which won't be apparent until you reassemble and start it again

Use a jack under the bellhousing to prevent it dropping down allowing the t/c to slide forward and to be doubly sure as soon as you get a gap between the engine and box make a small cranked bracket, held on via a now unused bellhousing bolt to retain it there .


If you pop the convertor from the gearbox you will, pop that front seal and lose all the fluid. You will then also have to hold the gearbox on end while aligning the two internal splines plus external 'tanged' oil pump drive.

TAKE NOTE ,,,,, very wise words from mr kapri , i,v had to sort the very same problem in the past when taking over a job that some ,numpty, had c#cked up

[terry t]

"Listen carefully, I shall say this only once"

4" is perfectly adequate to remove engine from the box as you only need enough room to pop the flexplate out of the gearbox but NOT with teh torque convertor. If you pull the engine and box out together you will lose your trans fluid as well.

There is either a cover plate that allows access to the torque convertor bolts or you get to them once the starter is removed.

Remove the tc bolts from the flex plate and push the tc back in the gearbox .It is imperative that throughout the rest of the job it STAYS there . If it slips forward it can pop the front trans seal which won't be apparent until you reassemble and start it again

Use a jack under the bellhousing to prevent it dropping down allowing the t/c to slide forward and to be doubly sure as soon as you get a gap between the engine and box make a small cranked bracket, held on via a now unused bellhousing bolt to retain it there .


If you pop the convertor from the gearbox you will, pop that front seal and lose all the fluid. You will then also have to hold the gearbox on end while aligning the two internal splines plus external 'tanged' oil pump drive.

Sound like some one talking themselves into a job here 

[Olds]

I would like to state that I know absolutely nothing about Rover V8's with automatic gearbox ! But it sounds like a certain Mr Kapri might.