Manky's Pop.

[spanners]

did you use an ordinary dash board warning light or an L.E.D. one

[terry t]

did you use an ordinary dash board warning light or an L.E.D. one

dash board one Mike

[spanners]

it was just a passing thought as i once built an electrical ,test rig, and after a few problems that seamed so daft i found that the led warning light didnt have enough resistantce to pull the diode in on an alt.

[tbone]

Thats the good and bad thing about LED`S, low amps 

[terry t]

did you use an ordinary dash board warning light or an L.E.D. one

dash board one Mike

Mike  sorry just remembered it was an LED one fitted into the speedo

[spanners]

did you use an ordinary dash board warning light or an L.E.D. one

dash board one Mike

Mike  sorry just remembered it was an LED one fitted into the speedo

best to be safe and wire as test piece when you pop alt back on then  you can be shure

[ByzMax]

did you use an ordinary dash board warning light or an L.E.D. one

dash board one Mike

Mike  sorry just remembered it was an LED one fitted into the speedo

best to be safe and wire as test piece when you pop alt back on then  you can be shure

Good spot that! reckon that might be the problem.

[spanners]

did you use an ordinary dash board warning light or an L.E.D. one

dash board one Mike

Mike  sorry just remembered it was an LED one fitted into the speedo

best to be safe and wire as test piece when you pop alt back on then  you can be shure

Good spot that! reckon that might be the problem.

you can still use the LED if you want  but you will need to put a small resister inline with it

[Bus Boy]

BRAVO! mr manky. just bin catchin up wiv yer thread (not bin mankin' for a while!!!) & have to say .......slooking dam fine!!!
gee ya must be a right proud papa(or is that POP!!!) well done that man.

[Manky Monkey]

Hiya  Nice to see you back again mate. Don't leave it so long next time eh.
I'm just the pretty public face of this project. It's turned into a bit of a team effort with a whole bunch of guys donating their time & parts -that's truck parts, not their parts, to the cause. Wouldn't be running at all without their help. 
For what it's worth, I agree chaps.
When Terry wired the dashboard, we didn't have the bulb holders for the speedo, so used an LED unit I'd originally planned to use as a warning light for the fog light switch. Mr GoForest kindly donated a handful of bulb holders but by then the wiring was done, so we said we'd change it when we strip the truck down for paint.
If you fit aftermarket mini LED indicators to motorbikes you often have to fit an inline resistor or they won't flash properly.
When I first built my green Reliant trike & a friend wired it for me, I didn't have any room for the charging light, so tucked the empty bulb holder & it's wiring inside the headlight shell, intending to sort it out at a later date. Took it for the MOT & it ran fine, but having parked it up, it refused to start again. Fortunately the tester & his mate were big trike fans. They brought out a test meter & spent an hour checking the trike from one end to the other, but found nothing wrong. Then I casually mentioned the empty charging light bulb holder. Aha! That's the problem. No bulb means a break in the circuit, means the alternator won't work, means the battery doesn't get charged.
A low resistance LED would behave the same way.

[spanners]

EEEERRRMMMM,,,YEPP,,,,

[Manky Monkey]

Had a phone call from the alternator repair guy this morning to say it works fine, putting out around 34 amps & charging at 14 volts. All the components are in good working order. He doesn't charge to check units over & quote for repairs, but I gave him a tenner for his time -well worth it for the peace of mind.
Collected it this afternoon & will clean off the red paint the previous owner slapped all over it, before refitting it.
I also changed the engine oil & filter today. I used Halfords 20/50 "classic car" oil. Comes in a nice shiny metal can, compared to the plastic bottles they use for other grades. I was suprised to find when I poured it into the motor, that it's bright emerald green! 

[Cabman77]

can`t beat a good bit of mineral oil 

[spanners]

its ok == green oil  go,s faster ,

[Manky Monkey]

I think that's why the engine was painted -cos everyone knows red engines are faster.

Mr Kapri's been doing the sums for the brakes:

Step by step .
 
Pop has 54mm front brakes 20.3 rear cylinders .
 
With 19mmm/c and 3:1 pedal ratio it should still have made 1000psi line pressure with 100 pound pedal input...so you can see how much we lost with vectoring.!! Normal pedal input gave 300 and 600 stood on it.
 
Pop with 5:1 pedal and 19mm cylinder should give 1666psi BUT not enough fluid moved still so double pump needed.
 
VW Bus ( as parked outside workshop) has 20.6m/c  with 6:1 pedal ratio. This gives 1158 line pressure
 
VW bus with servo 23.8 m/c and (presumed) 4:1 pedal ratio gives 690psi line pressure but PLUS servo input .
 
Buses use 54mm front caliper with 22.2 rear cylnder on both applications.
 
Pop has 54mm calipers and 20.3 rear slaves  so uses slightly less fluid with reduced rear braking pressure ( slave is 20.3 as opposed to bus 22.2)
 
On Pop ,using 20.6 with 5:1 pedal ratio , 100lbs pedal input gives 863psi line pressure PLUS additional pressure from servo .
 
So correctly set up 20.6 camper m/c ,with 5:1 ratio will still double the current 100lb load braking output on Pop , compared to the 300 we were getting on best circuit.
 
Actual travel at pedal should be 40-50mm to fully on as opposed to 50mm of pedal movement before ANY braking effort generated with old set up.
 
So I'm going with 20.6 m/c per bus outside workshop.
 
We also need to find a load proporting valve to fit in rear line.