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Author Topic: Manky's Pop.  (Read 1555537 times)
Manky Monkey
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« Reply #3750 on: October 02, 2011, 07:36:49 AM »

Yeah Doc. Doesn't appear to be fouling anywhere though. Seems to be more to do with getting the 2 connecting rods to move through the same arc of travel, although they're completely different lengths. We've got Park, Reverse, Neutral & Drive, which is enough for the test, but there are 2 other Drive positions & we're missing one of them. When I bought the engine I was told it'd come out of an ex drag car, so it's entirely possible that the box has been doctored in some way.
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kapri
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« Reply #3751 on: October 02, 2011, 08:32:07 AM »

I'm not convinced there is an issue with the brakes yet Andy? It was travelling to the floor fully with no hindrance  when it was bled manually the last time and I looked at the arc of pedal travel etc and it was moving  well ?

I've pantographed the shifter movemnt out and it is to do with the shifter being mounted higher normally. This means that although the shifter to cantilever rod length stays the same  the arc of travel of one to the other means the actual movement reduces at the extremeties. Enough to gain that missing gear position:)
« Last Edit: October 02, 2011, 08:36:38 AM by kapri » Logged
NeilG
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« Reply #3752 on: October 02, 2011, 06:41:43 PM »

Hi Andy,glad to see its all getting there,sorry I didn't say hi this morning,didn't know you were there till I passed you on the way out
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Cabman77
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« Reply #3753 on: October 03, 2011, 09:40:01 AM »

I`m sorry i didn`t get the roof welded but at least we appear to have dealy with the brake problem, that`s if they`re still pressurised this morning  Huh Huh Huh Huh
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terry t
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« Reply #3754 on: October 03, 2011, 09:51:38 AM »

I`m sorry i didn`t get the roof welded but at least we appear to have dealy with the brake problem, that`s if they`re still pressurised this morning  Huh Huh Huh Huh
And i didn't get the wiring done.me and cab man sorted brakes in stead.the bacon rolls were very nice cabman thank you cuddles  Kiss
wont know if the brake pressure held until MM checks today  Huh
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #3755 on: October 03, 2011, 08:40:15 PM »

Hi guys. Sorry, internet connection problems last night, so couldn't post much.
Nice to see Mr & Mrs Cabby yesterday. No sign of the workshop cat at all today -you didn't take her home after making friends with her yesterday did you?
Terry's becoming a workshop regular now!
Many thanks to Goforest by the way, who donated the speedo bulb holders we needed. 
Had a bonus visit from Kev, (Kapri), again today. Appreciated, as always, mate. Loony's hurt his neck, so I was expecting to be on my own.
The brakes have all been apart yet again -don't ask! Latest news is that we appear to have a fully working, leak free system with only one problem. The shoes in the rear drum brakes are too far from the inner face of the drums, so that on the first push, the brake pedal goes almost to the floor as the shoes move out to meet the drum. Then on the next push, they work fine. Leave it a minute or two & they return too far again. All the shoes & slave cylinders are new. They have self adjusting ratchets, but still seem to be returning too much.
PD had a look after work this evening to confirm everything's in working order, (he's a professional mechanic). His only suggestion was to refit the rear residual valve to hold some fluid in the line so that the shoes are held somewhere near their working position. Unfortunately we stripped the valve apart yesterday & I'm not sure we can put it back together! Failing that, I'll have to go shopping on Ebay for another, though it'd be unlikely to get here before the weekend.
We did manage to put 1 1/2 gallons of fresh fuel in the tank today. The sealant seems to be working & it's all leak free at the moment. I spent the last half hour this evening rolling a sheet of steel to form the panel under the dash & beginnng to cut it to shape.
Again, nothing to really photograph. We seem to be going over the same bits all the time at the moment. 
Terry & Cabman doing ...stuff.
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spanners
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« Reply #3756 on: October 03, 2011, 08:53:11 PM »

what type ,,auto,, adjusters are in youre rear brake,s???

...sherpa.. i bet Roll Eyes

most auto adjusters are known for not auto adjusting
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Cabman77
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« Reply #3757 on: October 03, 2011, 08:55:17 PM »

what type ,,auto,, adjusters are in youre rear brake,s???

...sherpa.. i bet Roll Eyes

most auto adjusters are known for not auto adjusting

How true is that statement ?  Grin Grin Grin Grin
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terry t
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« Reply #3758 on: October 03, 2011, 08:57:46 PM »

you will get that on any braking system if the shoes are to far from the drums.1st pump buid up pressure 2nd pump brakes
cant the rear brakes be adjusted so there a closer fit to the drum before its fitted on .
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Cabman77
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« Reply #3759 on: October 03, 2011, 09:02:50 PM »

I did struggle a bit on the drive home yesterday, neck was siezing up and the base of my spine felt like it was on fire. Slept like a log after the tablets when I got home. Ache like buggery now but did enjoy the day believe it or not. It`s been a long time since I`d tried to weld tissue paper.   Grin Grin Grin Grin
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terry t
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« Reply #3760 on: October 03, 2011, 09:11:00 PM »

what type ,,auto,, adjusters are in youre rear brake,s???

...sherpa.. i bet Roll Eyes

most auto adjusters are known for not auto adjusting
are the Sherpa auto adjusters operated from the foot or hand brake.as the brakes have not been used.so no auto adjusting is happening
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spanners
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« Reply #3761 on: October 03, 2011, 09:23:48 PM »

what type ,,auto,, adjusters are in youre rear brake,s???

...sherpa.. i bet Roll Eyes

most auto adjusters are known for not auto adjusting
are the Sherpa auto adjusters operated from the foot or hand brake.as the brakes have not been used.so no auto adjusting is happening

depends on the type and it could be one of three 1= friction pad 2= wedge and spring 3= barrall screw ..

no,3 is the one i think it is without lookin at it =basically a threaded link between the shoe,s with a ,barrall piece on the outside with notche,s on it whitch gets notched up by a little tin lever thats trapped by the shoe anchor if one of the workshop monkeys can identify whitch it is i can tell you how to get over the problem
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terry t
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« Reply #3762 on: October 03, 2011, 09:28:24 PM »

what type ,,auto,, adjusters are in youre rear brake,s???

...sherpa.. i bet Roll Eyes

most auto adjusters are known for not auto adjusting
are the Sherpa auto adjusters operated from the foot or hand brake.as the brakes have not been used.so no auto adjusting is happening

depends on the type and it could be one of three 1= friction pad 2= wedge and spring 3= barrall screw ..

no,3 is the one i think it is without lookin at it =basically a threaded link between the shoe,s with a ,barrall piece on the outside with notche,s on it whitch gets notched up by a little tin lever thats trapped by the shoe anchor if one of the workshop monkeys can identify whitch it is i can tell you how to get over the problem
so is that operated by the hand brake then
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spanners
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« Reply #3763 on: October 03, 2011, 09:34:32 PM »

if its type 3 pump the footbrake then hold it hard and whilst holding foot pressure work the handbrake if all is well it ,,should adjust up

if its in ,real, tip top order youlle hear it clicking as you work the h,brake and feel it taking up any free play
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terry t
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« Reply #3764 on: October 03, 2011, 09:43:55 PM »

if its type 3 pump the footbrake then hold it hard and whilst holding foot pressure work the handbrake if all is well it ,,should adjust up

if its in ,real, tip top order youlle hear it clicking as you work the h,brake and feel it taking up any free play
Thanks Mike. have you got that Andy when your up the yard give it a try
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