Manky's Pop.

[Manky Monkey]

 
We're running the forum from Taz's laptop computer at the moment. It's got a very limited memory, (like me), so every time I upload a new photo to her photo folders I have to delete an old one -yeah, a remote hard drive would make more sense but we just haven't gotten round to getting one yet. I'll email the pics over from my own PC, one at a time, scan them through Taz's anti virus software, post them, then delete them from her laptop  ...it may take a while.

Today I 'ave mostly been-
messing about with the dip switch. You may remember I made up a sleeve the other day, to go over the top half of the steering column to hold the indicator switch unit. I don't want to use modern plastic controls, but also don't want a mass of switches on the dashboard. The main lights on/off switch is built into the ignition switch, but I need a high/low beam control within easy reach of the steering wheel. Archie's XS650 chop's been at the workshop for a while & has a nifty little chrome push on/push off type button for the lights. So I pinched the idea & bought one for myself from the same shop that supplied his. 8 quids got me this.

[Manky Monkey]

An off-cut of toob, sliced down it's length, pinched up in the vice then re-welded until it was the same diameter as the steering column sleeve, & a disc cut to fit the end & welded on, then the whole ensemble drilled, hacksawed & filed -all the usual stuff, created this.

[Manky Monkey]

The switch fits snugly inside it, then it's all bolted to a couple of threaded tabs on the column sleeve. Can't weld it on cos I wouldn't be able to get the switch in afterwards. Just need to drill a hole for the wiring now, (if I write that here it might just remind me to do it). I may get it chromed to match the indicator unit.

[Manky Monkey]

The whole sleeve then drops over the Morris Minor steering column & will be welded in place when it's finished. That gives me 3 of the necessary switches -indicators, hazard warning & high/low beam, all in one unit.

[Manky Monkey]

The wings for the bonnet badge arrived in the post & were promptly cut up. It was a replica American airforce cap/tie pin, cast in lightweight pewter. Propped in place on the bonnet here with a dab of grease to hold them in position. The vertical "spear" mates up to a metal strip that runs down the centre of the bonnet to form the central hinge, so has to stay really. I've got an off-cut of 6mm aluminium in the shed, so might cut a bit a few mill bigger than the emblem, mount the pieces flat on it, then shape the underside to the contour of the bonnet. That'd create a more rigid badge & might be thick enough to add some small mounting studs on the back.
As we seem to be building the Pop by majority forum verdict, what does the panel think? I like it. 

[poprodder]

so do i andy!
switch gear looks cool as well.
but chrome? thats a posh shiny thing ain't it!!!

[kapri]

I like it but it isn't getting any nearer to SVA is it ?  ;

[Tony oily bike]

Like it too!  (the badge that is)

[poprodder]

I like it but it isn't getting any nearer to SVA is it ?  ;

whats left on the countdown timer!!!

[Manky Monkey]

Point taken Mr K. 
Got to be registered before October 2011 to take advantage of the commercial vehicle SVA loophole. After that, we'd have to comply with BIVA regulations, the same as the kitcar boys. Do-able, but a whole different ball game. It'd mean modifying a lot of parts to basically bring the truck up to the same specifications as a modern production car.
Next purchase will be the stainless bends for the other exhaust header, as well as a reel of stainless wire for the MIG welder. With that we can finish the headers & move onto the silencers. Once they're mounted under the cab floor, there's nothing to stop us making the floor itself & the gearbox tunnel. The sheet metal's Loony's department.
I need to sort out the rest of the body mounts & find a way of attaching the fibreglass dashboard. There's 2 box section uprights behind the doors that form the seatbelt mounts & also attach the body to the chassis. I've got enough box left to make 2 more in front of the doors, then will tie them together with a round tube roll cage style jobbie along the tops of the doors & around the back of the cab.
I also need to find another Pop bonnet to stretch ours with if anyone has one.
Lunatic runs a body repair & respray business so obviously has other vehicles to work on too. I have to put in an 8 or 9 hour shift at Royal Mail before spending the rest of each afternoon at the workshop. So much to do, so little time      

[triker_Chewie]

chrome the switch cover and shift the wings up a tad
lookin good

[poprodder]

you'll be wanting this soon!!!

[Manky Monkey]

  Yeah, every time I think we're getting there, I start thinking of all the jobs still to do. Just realised we need a fuse box somewhere. No room under the dash. Between the seats on the cab back would be handy but that's where the heater's going. Maybe under the passenger seat? That'd mean running a lot of wiring back & forth under the car though. Perhaps we could route it inside the gearbox tunnel.
My head's constantly buzzing with endless lists of things that need to be done. Argh!

[twolanes]

Hope you dont mean under the car "in the gearbox tunnel" mate, the rain & crap would give you no end of problems.

[kapri]

Inside the foot wells in the front ? Otherwise on removable panel under the seats?
I've just had to do this on the truck to fit the ECU, 8 relays and 2 small fuseboxes ... that's on top of all the original stuff I had fitted as I wanted this as a standalone loom .

 The initial wiring is on a drop down hinged panel under the dash, neat and out of the way but a twist of a thumbwheel drops it down to reveal , fuse box and relays and easily accessable by the side of the road without standing in the rain .