Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8775 on: August 09, 2016, 07:08:11 PM » |
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Carb cleaned up & refitted. Took ages to figure out which cable & hose connected to what.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8776 on: August 11, 2016, 08:21:14 PM » |
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I know the basic principles of engine set-up but I'm no mechanic & usually seek out those with more knowledge -or who at least think they have more knowledge, to lend a hand at that point. Chris, ("Forgotten"), was unwary enough to be around this afternoon when the distributor needed fitting, with the motor at top dead centre. After locating the painted over timing marks on the crank pulley, he went to drop it in place, but it didn't seem to want to go all the way into the housing. 2 hours of endless fiddling, turning & checking the Haynes manual later, he finally realised it just needed pushing in harder to overcome the rubber O ring on the shaft. Sorted.
Unfortunately, in the process, he spotted the drive gear on the bottom of the dizzy had a crack in it, where it's held to the shaft by a roll pin. Fine spotting my friend -could've been mechanically disastrous if it'd broken up in use. So now I need to phone Real Steel & see if they do new ones. It's a Lucas distributor from the old SD1 engine.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8777 on: August 11, 2016, 08:29:07 PM » |
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While the dashboard's still out, I've V'd the crack out with a hand file & run some SuperGlue into it. Put a skim of filler on it this evening so will rub it down tomorrow & try & blow it in in aerosol paint.
Quite a while ago I picked up the webbing strap that goes on the bulkhead & radiator grille to stop the bonnet rattling & rubbing the paint off. It only came in pale brown, so I had a go at dying it black. Didn't come out very well -the colour rinsed back off most of it & I suspect would wash out completely eventually, leaving black streaks down the paintwork. The fabric also frayed when cut to length & just looked generally tatty.
So I'm experimenting with self adhesive foam rubber strips. This one's exactly the same profile as the webbing & cost 2 quid for 5 metres on Ebay. It's meant for UPVC house doors. I've ordered a different version too so will decide which to go for when that arrives.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Olds
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« Reply #8778 on: August 12, 2016, 08:11:02 AM » |
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Distributor drive, LR part number ERC1353. Should cost about £30. Unless you get it from Land Rover, then it will cost about £60.
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« Last Edit: August 12, 2016, 08:14:59 AM by Olds »
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Olds
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« Reply #8780 on: August 12, 2016, 09:36:31 AM » |
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He needs the post 76 drive.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8782 on: August 12, 2016, 08:42:27 PM » |
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It's a '79 SD1 unit. Nipped up to Real Steel in Uxbridge, Middlesex after work this afternoon & picked up the drive gear & 2 roll pins for 30 quid. It comes with the "wobbly bit" on the bottom that connects to the oil pump. It needs to be re-drilled though -they told me in the shop that the pre-drilled hole doesn't always line up with the hole in the shaft & the instructions specifically say Do Not Use The Pre-Drilled Hole. It looks to be in the right place to me, but will need either opening out to take a bigger pin, or re-drilling at 90 degrees to the existing hole. Not a job I feel confident doing myself -don't want to bugger up the dizzy shaft, crack the "brittle" gear or drill the hole off centre or something. I know my limitations!  |
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« Last Edit: August 12, 2016, 08:44:58 PM by Manky Monkey »
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8783 on: August 12, 2016, 08:42:59 PM » |
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8784 on: August 12, 2016, 08:50:36 PM » |
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On my way home I stopped off in Halfords in Farnborough & bought a new battery -the previous one isn't holding much of a charge. I keep thinking it's brand new, but it's actually 4 or 5 years old & been sitting around, un-used for several years.
Then, before it got dark this evening, I rubbed down the filler on the dashboard with some 600 wet n dry & gave it a quick squirt of filler primer. I'll give it a day or 2 to harden up then rub it back with 1200 & see what it looks like.
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« Last Edit: August 12, 2016, 08:58:41 PM by Manky Monkey »
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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stinkey
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I can't stop building stuff ?,but I'm slowing down
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« Reply #8785 on: August 12, 2016, 08:53:46 PM » |
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It will still look like the dash ?  Have you got a thing about HOLES Andy ? Are you scared of them ?  |
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Backyard hotrodder,learnt by mistake,still learning ?
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8786 on: August 12, 2016, 08:59:09 PM » |
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8787 on: August 13, 2016, 04:49:22 PM » |
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Dash rubbed down & given a light coat of green aerosol paint, (I had a few cans mixed up by the local paint shop to match). Hopefully it won't react with the 2 pack. I'll flat it back & give it another couple of coats over the weekend.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #8788 on: August 13, 2016, 04:56:02 PM » |
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New battery bought & installed, though not hooked up yet as the dashboard's still out.
Damaged distributor drive gear removed. The hole in the new gear seems to line up pretty much spot on with the hole in the shaft, but just to be sure, I'll follow the instructions supplied & take it to a local engineering company on Monday to have a new hole drilled through the shaft at 90 degrees to the original to take the new, smaller diameter roll pin supplied with the gear. I also need to get some of the stainless exhaust flanges bored out to suit the new stainless pipes, so will get that done at the same time. The old gear broke up as I tapped the pin out, so I'm glad Chris spotted it & it's being changed.
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On the last freedom moped out of Nowhere City.
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Stix
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« Reply #8789 on: August 13, 2016, 05:02:43 PM » |
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Andy if the new hole is going to pass through the old one it will make the shaft very flimsy with holes going through on two planes, might be better to ask the machine shop if they can match the new cog to the old hole,that way only one hole in the shaft and more metal left around it. just my thoughts mate.
Stix
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