Manky's Pop.

[cunningplan]

It'll be mangled & dripping in gunky oil by the time I get it off, (Archie works for Euro carparts).
Houndmills is a local industrial estate. Thanks, didn't know there was still a Rover dealer there.

Fram was/is (They are shutting down) local to me and when I was running a Rover I found I didn't have room for a normal Rover filter, so I phoned up their tech department and asked which other filter would fit, I was told that the shorter one for the Ford Pinto (Which I use on my new engine) would fit and has the right oil direction, but I would have to change it more often, When I told them it would do less than 5000 miles a year and I would change it then, they said that would not be a problem.

[kapri]

Frams reputation is in tatters so not surprised they are closing. They are slagged off on most US sites for how badly their quality has deteriorated. There are a couple of videos on youtube re Fram that are worth looking at as they give an insight into what makes  a good filter.

Spend good money on a good filter after doing research , for a difference of £5 you could end up with a blown engine

The telling thing with Antons that was when he went to get a replacement filter ready for a service ( prior to engine failure) the factors had stopped using Coopers.  My local factors( different one to Antons )  is not the cheapest around but is competitively priced with products that are good quality and have excellent service and tech back up.  He supplies Mahle

[spanners]

i visited martin at DB MOTORS in leicstershire the other week and he spoke very strongly on the downside of fram filters , , basically when used on yank applications the oil pressure remains good but the flow ,GPM isnt as good as claimed and he knows of a few higher revving v8,s that have failed due to this ,,
for yanks he recomeneds AC  witch are oe equipment spec  and i think they are only £7 or £8 for the right filter for the job ,,
i,ll let you know how good they are as i bought some for ,EMILY,s  engine ,,

[cunningplan]

Frams reputation is in tatters so not surprised they are closing. They are slagged off on most US sites for how badly their quality has deteriorated. There are a couple of videos on youtube re Fram that are worth looking at as they give an insight into what makes  a good filter.

Spend good money on a good filter after doing research , for a difference of £5 you could end up with a blown engine

The telling thing with Antons that was when he went to get a replacement filter ready for a service ( prior to engine failure) the factors had stopped using Coopers.  My local factors( different one to Antons )  is not the cheapest around but is competitively priced with products that are good quality and have excellent service and tech back up.  He supplies Mahle

The only problem with Coopers was they were made in Abergavenny, were taken over by Fram (Keeping the name) who were then taken over by So/gefi  who make lots of different filters but under different names.
They have/had two local factory's, One in Llantrisant (Across from the Mint) and one on the heads of the valleys road.
Anyway, what I am saying is that you can use a Pinto filter of any make on a Rover V8.

[spanners]

Frams reputation is in tatters so not surprised they are closing. They are slagged off on most US sites for how badly their quality has deteriorated. There are a couple of videos on youtube re Fram that are worth looking at as they give an insight into what makes  a good filter.

Spend good money on a good filter after doing research , for a difference of £5 you could end up with a blown engine

The telling thing with Antons that was when he went to get a replacement filter ready for a service ( prior to engine failure) the factors had stopped using Coopers.  My local factors( different one to Antons )  is not the cheapest around but is competitively priced with products that are good quality and have excellent service and tech back up.  He supplies Mahle

The only problem with Coopers was they were made in Abergavenny, were taken over by Fram (Keeping the name) who were then taken over by So/gefi  who make lots of different filters but under different names.
They have/had two local factory's, One in Llantrisant (Across from the Mint) and one on the heads of the valleys road.
Anyway, what I am saying is that you can use a Pinto filter of any make on a Rover V8.

=== motorcraft, EFL 90 

[Manky Monkey]

My day off today. I tried the local guys for an oil filter & valve stem oil seals, but they said they'd have to order them. So I nipped back to Real Steel this morning. I was there & back by 11.0.clock.
I did ask what brands of filter they stocked, but they only sell Fram & recommend them for Rover motors. So that's what I've got.
I also picked up a couple of valve stem oil seals. How many would you like? 8 or 16? Erm, one please. I'm only changing one valve. He gave me 2. Idiot -I should've got at least 8.
Back at the workshop, I used Loony Senior's valve spring compressor on the suspect valve. Collets removed, spring taken out ...valve well & truly stuck in the closed position. Had to use a metal drift & a hammer to remove it. Hmm, that could be the problem then. No damage to the valve guide that I could see, just a build up of hardened gunge on the stem. The valve wasn't bent, (checked it by rolling it on the bed of Loony Senior's mill as well as spinning it in the pillar drill). So I scraped it with a razor blade & polished it with some fine emery paper & it slid back in nicely. A quick go with the twizzly suction stick thing & some coarse grinding paste, followed by fine paste & it went back together, with a new valve stem oil seal.
After decoking the combustion chambers with a wire wheel on a drill, followed by a rotary nylon brush, I decided I may as well check the other valves too. 2 of the other larger valves, (exhaust?), were definitely sticky, though not as bad as the first one. All now cleaned up, checked, ground in & replaced.
It was at that point that I realised none of them had had valve stem oil seals fitted. So I checked one of the spare heads. Only 2 valves had seals. Later engines have caps that fit over the top of the valve guides, but mine's the earlier type, with just a plain flat rubber washer. I know they go hard & break up, but there's no sign of any parts in the cylinder head. Not replaced by a previous owner? How much would the exhaust smoke without them? Would that explain the build up of hard glaze on the back of the valves?
So it looks like I might be going back to Real Steel yet again after work tomorrow for a bag of seals. Chris the Moggy Minor owner needs some parts too so I can collect them at the same time.
The combustion chamber with the stuck valve, (removed in this photo), had a build up of hard shiny glaze in it -burnt oil from the missing seal?

[Manky Monkey]

All cleaned up, though I might have to pop the valves back out tomorrow to add the seals.

[Manky Monkey]

My spare engine has slightly different valves. I didn't measure them, but they appear to have a thinner shaft & a shoulder above the head. So wouldn't have fitted anyway. I didn't want to swap the whole head over in case it was a different compression ratio.

[Baychimp]

Hi Andy the lads at reel steel will be thinking you are moving in with them at this rate. Hopefully this will cure the problem and you can get a bit of trouble free cruising in.

[Manky Monkey]

Yeah, I was hoping it'd be a different guy at the counter when I got there -getting embarrassing now. Same bloke.
"A bag of your finest valve stem seals please shopkeeper".
Do these do any good?
Nah, not really.
Early SD1 engines like mine use flat rubber washers to seal the valve stems & keep the engine oil on the right side of the cylinder head. As far as I can see, they'll just ride up the stem the first time the valve opens.
Yeah, they do.
Oh.
Later engines used a cap design that sits over the top of the valve guide.
Anyway, I bought them, collected Chris's oil seal, (he bought a new one, but damaged it while fitting it & needed another -see, it's not just me), & headed back to the workshop.
Bright sunshine on the M25 but it was raining at the same time ..hang on, that's not rain -they're snow flakes! Very bizarre.
The rubber stem seals are only actually needed on the inlet valves apparently, but I had spares, so popped each valve back out in turn & fitted them on them all.
I pulled the lifters out one by one, dismantled them & checked their pistons moved freely, then reassembled them & put them back.
So the hydraulic lifters work fine, I've got spare pushrods to replace the bent ones, the rocker assembly works fine & the valves all do what they should. I've cleaned the cylinder head up & I've got new gaskets to put it all back together.
I should be able to rebuild it all tomorrow afternoon & run it. Assuming all goes well, once it's warm I can drain the oil, change the filter & refill it & we'll be good to go again.
Maybe.

[triker_Chewie]

then some big smokey burnouts are in order

[poprodder]

monkey burnouts!!!!! 

good luck andy.

[Manky Monkey]

 
Not quite ready to run, but just the cables & hoses to hook up again now. Need to buy a couple of new hose clips, some fresh oil & to swap my nice new rubber rocker cover gaskets with Chris's new cork ones. I bought re-useable rubber jobbies, but they won't fit my aftermarket covers, so we'll trade.
Mr Old Newbie made the mistake of hanging around after I arrived at the shop today. He'd come to talk to Loony about some bodywork -should've jumped on the trike & fled when you had the chance Dave! He ended up roped into rebuilding the Pop motor with me. Everything's checked & double checked & torqued down correctly -really hope that's the last time now! Thanks for your time Dave.
I won't be at the 'shop tomorrow, (got 2 people coming to view the Charger I'm trying to sell), so it'll be Monday now before I get to try it again.

[triker_Chewie]

good luck with the Dodge Andy. Get that monkey off your back

[Olds]

should've jumped on the trike & fled

Next time I'll leave it running for a quick getaway.

Good luck for tomorrow.