Manky Monkey Motors

In this occasional series, i aim to introduce the various tools used throughout the fabrication of your bike/trike/ vehicle. Some will be `must haves`, like the angle grinder, others wont be, like the cut-off saw, but i`ll try and cover as many as i can.
Were possible i will show the tools that have the most features (the higher end spec), so dont worry if your particular make/model is not identical to the ones shown here, it will still do its job.
And while on that subject, all images are taken from the Google Images search engine, and have been edited (text ect added) by me,unless credited/acknowlaged seperatly.

Whilst some safety tips may be given, NEITHER MANKY MONKEY MOTORS NOR I ARE LIABLE FOR YOUR SAFETY, it`s up to you to READ, UNDERSTAND and FOLLOW the saftey rules that are contained within each individual manual for the tools you buy or use.

CUT-OFF SAW otherwise known as METAL CHOP SAW

What this tool is primarily used for:
The cut-off saw is used for cutting metal. It can cut pipe or flat stock perpendicular to the saw base and is only used to make straight or angled cuts. The one shown below uses an abrasive disc (like an angle grinder) to cut through steel, although the new breed of saws use a TCT blade and can cut steel, aluminium, wood and plastics with virtually no burr or sparks using the same blade.
Operation is fairly simple, clamp your workpiece securely to the base, push in the safety button, pull the trigger and lower the now spinning disc down to make the cut. Many will have an adjustable vice allowing angles of up to 45deg to be cut.
Most usefull for cutting the ends of pipe square, cutting plate to make brackets ect.
 
 THINGS TO REMEMBER WHEN USING THIS MACHINE
•   Long workpieces must be supported by a block or material support stand so it will be level with top of base. The cutoff end should be free (not supported)
•   The vice has a quick travel feature. To release the vice when it is clamped tightly, turn the crank counterclockwise one or two times to remove clamping pressure
•   For accurate angle cutting, first use a protractor or adjustable angle to set adjustable fence


ALWAYS WEAR APPROPRIATE PPE WHEN USING THIS MACHINE
SAFETY FOR THIS MACHINE:
•   ALWAYS KNOW what type of metal you are cutting
•   DO NOT FORCE the saw to cut through material
•   ALWAYS USE VICE.  NEVER attempt to hold a piece of metal and use this saw
•   INSPECT the cutting wheel for cracks or flaws before use. If a crack of flaw is evident, the wheel must be discarded
•   DO NOT CUT wood or plastic with an abrasive disc
•   AVOID bouncing the wheel or giving it rough treatment when in use. If this occurs during operation, stop the tool and inspect the wheel for damage
•   REFER to your instruction manual for further information
            
            
            
            
            
 

What this tool is primarily used for:
The Bench Grinder is used for grinding the edges of flat metals, removing burrs from the ends of tubing and rods and the sharpening of some metal tools e.g chisels, drill bits
It can also be fitted with a wire brush type wheel and then be used for removing rust, paint ect.
Usually twin abrasive wheels are fitted, one coarse, one fine, depending on the type of work being done and finish required.
Generally available in 6" or 8" versions relating to the wheel dia. 6" is perfectly ok and i would be more concerned about getting one with the highest motor wattage you can, this will allow easier grinding of thicker material and the machine will be less likely to jam on you.


 
ALWAYS WEAR APPROPRIATE PPE WHEN USING THIS MACHINE
SAFETY FOR THIS MACHINE:
•   INSPECT the wheels for cracks or chips before use. A cracked wheel will disintegrate when operated
•   GUARD must be used at all times
•   EYE SHIELDS must be over work area
•   GRIND ONLY ON THE FACE OF THE WHEELS. Grinding on the side of the wheel weakens the wheel and may cause breakage
•   ALWAYS USE TOOL REST when working with this machine
•   DO NOT force metal into moving grinding wheel
•   DO NOT make any adjustments to tool rests or spark arrestors while grinder is "ON"
•   NEVER grind soft metals (bronze, zinc, copper) on wheels designed for hard metal. The grinder is normally set up for grinding hard metals, i.e. steel. Soft metals can become incorporated within the wheel resin, causing overheating and subsequent wheel disintegration.

 
OTHER THINGS TO REMEMBER WHEN USING THIS MACHINE:
•   For safe operation, the tool rest must not be in contact with grinding wheel
•   Adjust angle of tool rest to desired position and tighten nuts securely. Maintaining 1/16" - 1/8" clearance between tool rest and grinding wheel
•   The spark deflector should be adjusted for approximately 1/16"- 1/8" clearance between it and the grinding wheel
•   Adjust eyeshield to position aliening center of eyeshield in line of sight to tool rest. The eyeshields can swivel
•   Do not hold material above tool rest while grinding. Doing so can cause you to loose your grip on the material

 

 
What this tool is primarily used for:
Probably the most versitile tool you will own, the Angle Grinder can be used for removing rust, grinding excess slag, or grinding down weld beads. Wire wheels, cutting wheels, sanding discs and flap wheels can all be attached to the grinder for different applications.
Available in two sizes, 115mm & 230mm, size refers to the disc diameter.The smaller grinder can easily cope with 99per cent of your tasks, the only exception will be if you need a deeper cut, as the depth of the cut is restricted to under half the disc diameter.
Always use the correct disc for the job your doing, failure to do this can cause the disc to shatter.
 
 
ALWAYS WEAR APPROPRIATE PPE WHEN USING THIS MACHINE

SAFETY FOR THIS MACHINE:
DO NOT modify machine to cut without the safety devices. Guard should be used at all times
ALWAYS direct sparks toward the floor and away from other people and yourself
INSPECT the grinding wheel for cracks or flaws before use. If a crack of flaw is evident, the wheel must be discarded
AVOID bouncing the wheel or giving it rough treatment when in use. If this occurs during operation, stop the tool and inspect the wheel for damage
ALWAYS KNOW what type of metal you are grinding
ALWAYS unplug this tool before changing discs or wheels
 
THINGS TO REMEMBER WHEN USING THIS MACHINE:
 
Always set this tool on its back when not in use or when grinding wheel is coasting to a stop
When using a depressed center grinding wheel, hold the tool so that an angle or about 10º exists between the wheel and the workpiece
Do not grind on the very edge of the wheel or use the tool flat on the workpiece
 
 

Great stuff TB.  ;)

What this tool is primarily used for:
The Drill Press is used for drilling holes in various materials. The main advantages of the Drill Press over the hand-held counterpart, the Hand Drill, are that using the Drill Press will allow you to drill with more accuracy, drill larger holes, and drill at specific angles more successfully as the Drill Press table has an inbuilt tilt mechanism. The Drill Press should come with a chart, depicting the recommended drilling speeds for various materials, and the speed setting of the machine is usualy accomplished by re-positioning the motor drive belt.
A specific vice can be bought and attached to the baseplate to secure workpieces.


SAFETY FOR THIS MACHINE
ALWAYS BE AWARE of where your fingers are in relation to the drill bit
DO NOT USE bits that are dull, bent or damaged
MAKE SURE bit is centered in chuck and tightened before operating the drill
DO NOT leave chuck key in chuck while operating machine
USE A CLAMP when drilling metal, this will help prevent the material from spinning into your body or hand
NEVER hold metal in your bare hand while drilling
NEVER turn the drill press "on" before clearing the table of all objects (tools, scrap pieces, etc.)

DO NOT start the drill press with the drill bit in contact with the work piece
ALWAYS let the drill chuck come to a complete stop on its own. Never grasp the chuck in an attempt to stop the drill bit
AVOID awkward hand positions where a sudden slip could cause a hand to move into the drill bit or cutting tool
DO NOT ATTEMPT to drill material that does not have a flat surface, unless a suitable support is used
TO PREVENT ROTATION OF THE WORKPIECE, ALWAYS clamp work securely to the table or in your drill press vice
NEVER work on the drill press table while the drill is operating
 
THINGS TO REMEMBER WHEN USING THIS MACHINE:
 
Remember to re-tighten the table lock lever before using the drill
Always check the drill press speed chart to determine correct combination of material, bit size, and drilling speed
Insert drill bits about 3/4" (and at least 1/4") into the chuck and tighten securely with the chuck key
Factors which determine the best speed:
Kind of material being worked (metal, acrylic, aluminum, wood, etc.)
Size of hole
Quality of cut desired
Typically, the smaller the drill bit, the greater the required RPM
In soft materials, the speed should be higher than for hard materials
Drilling into the table not only damages the table, but also the drill bits
To prevent rotation of the work piece, clamp the work secure to the table, either with a "C" clamp or the drill press clamp 
When drilling into metal, a cutting lubricant should be used. Cast iron and brass/bronze should be drilled dry

 
What this tool is primarily used for:
The Electric Drill is used for boring holes and driving screws into various materials. The main advantages of the Electric Drill over the Drill Press: there is almost no limit to where holes can be made in material and the Hand Drill is very portable. It should have a reversable motor, operated by a lever, speed control knob a torque setting control and a locking button to hold the switch in the on position.
Depending on the chuck size and drill bit shank, the largest bit used with this drill is generally 13mm. Larger holes can be bored if using a holesaw, other accessories include: wire brushes, sanding discs, grinding stones and flap wheels which can be used for lighter work than an angle grinder.
   
SAFETY FOR THIS MACHINE
ALWAYS BE AWARE of where your fingers are in relation to the drill bit
DO NOT USE bits that are dull, bent or damaged
MAKE SURE bit is centered in chuck and tightened before operating the drill
USE A CLAMP when drilling metal, this will help prevent the material from spinning into your body or hand
NEVER hold metal in your bare hand while drilling
AVOID awkward hand positions where a sudden slip could cause a hand to move into the drill bit or cutting tool
DO NOT ATTEMPT to drill material that does not have a flat surface, unless a suitable support is used
TO PREVENT ROTATION OF THE WORKPIECE, ALWAYS clamp work securely to a table
DO NOT USE locking button unless the drill is mounted in a drill press stand or otherwise held stationary. The user may need to instantly release the on/off switch if the bit binds in the work piece
ALWAYS unplug the drill when attaching or changing bits or accessories

 
THINGS TO REMEMBER WHEN USING THIS MACHINE:
 
The electric drill can be started with the drill bit in contact with the work piece
To drill a through hole without splintering the bottom face, place the material on a scrap piece of wood. This also protects the point of the drill bit
To prevent rotation of the work piece, clamp the work secure to the table, either with a "C" clamp or the drill press clamp
When drilling into metal, a cutting lubricant should be used. Cast iron and brass/bronze should be drilled dry
Insert drill bits about 3/4" into the chuck and tighten securely by holding the rear half of the chuck and rotating the front portion in the clockwise direction
Do not insert drill bits so deeply that they cover the fluted portion of the bit
If the drill stalls, it is usually because it is being overloaded or improperly used. Release the trigger immediately, remove drill bit from work piece, and determine cause of stalling. DO NOT CLICK TRIGGER ON AND OFF IN AN ATTEMPT TO START A STALLED DRILL - THIS CAN DAMAGE THE DRILL
To minimize stalling or breaking though the material, reduce pressure on drill and ease the bit thorough the last fractional part of the hole
Keep the motor running when pulling the bit back out of a drilled hole. This will help prevent jamming

Very informative mate. Give us a chance & we'll get it all online on the main site.

I`ve got a half dozen more on my list yet!! meant to do them `as n when` but sort of got on a roll with it. That will be it for today tho  :D.
If anyone else wants to chip in then please feel free to do so, I`d particularly like someone to do a piece on a lathe as i have no experiance what so ever with one. Anyone???

You're doing a fine job TB.

I will try to do a lathe article for you over xmas Ok?

Will take a bit of time as they can be quite complicated, will use mine (as it's basic) as an example while I am restoring it.

That'd be great Doc. Thank you.
We get quite a few guys contacting us who are very keen to build a machine of their own but just don't know where to start. They've got no workshop experience at all. Maybe we can't turn them into top class mechanics overnight, but we can at least arm them with some basic ground rules & the ability to tell one end of a spanner from the other. I actually think we owe them that much if we're going to encourage people to get stuck in & have a go.

Thanks for this thread, It will go a long way to explain alot of things that us novices just dont know or are unsure of.
Once again many thanks.

As we said, give us a couple of days & we'll get it all added to the main website.

JIGSAW
 
What this tool is primarily used for:
The Jig Saw is designed for cutting curves, circles, and irregular shapes although it can also be used for straight cutting. 
Sawing of metals, the basics
 When sawing metal it is highly important to NOT press the saw blade hard against the material being cut. It will not make the sawing action quicker, it is more likely that you cause too much stress to the components and motor of your jigsaw. Use only a small amount of force to press the saw blade against the material being cut.
There are two other things to consider when beginning to saw metals. You should select the most appropriate blade for your metal. You should also consider using of cutting oil of some kind. This will keep the blade cooler and even sharper for longer. But when using cutting oil you will see that the metal particles like to stick to your blade, it should not do any harm but might cause extra mess. 
     One thing in all jigsaw blades that differ is the distance between two teeth. When selecting your blade you should know what kind of metal you're going to saw and how thick that material is.Thinner material requires a blade with smaller teeth and a smaller distance between teeth. The correct sizing of teeth prevents even the thinnest metal sheet from tearing. The general rule is that at least 3 teeth should be in contact with the metal at the same time. When this is accomplished you should not see any tearing happening.

Blades for Aluminium
     Blades for aluminium usually have bigger teeth which improves the removal of chips and smaller particles. Usually when you find that it is slow to saw aluminium, its because  aluminium chips can stick between the blade and the sawed material, "choking" your blade. Using cutting oil might help with this. When using cutting oil it is likely that the chips will stick to the sides of your blade. Usually blades for aluminum have so big teeth that they wont choke at all.


Blades for metal.
Blades for harder metals have more smaller teeth and are thinner. But still the same principle works: the thicker the material the bigger the teeth. But this time the hardness of the metal should be considered also. So thick and hard metal needs smaller teeth than thick but softer metals. With these kind of metals you should always use cutting oil of some kind.
For instance, a  blade that has 0.7mm distance between teeth and length of an 55mm is ideal for curved cuts and layered materials, metal and PVC-plastic. I would also say that this is ideal for very thin metals (aprox. 1.4mm - 2.1mm) and even for thinner metal sheets. When using thinner (below 1.4mm) metal sheets you should also use some kind of wooden board behind and on top of the sheet to prevent it tearing and bending.
 A blade that has 1.2mm between teeth and a length of 55mm will still have the same usage as the above except this blade is more efficient with thicker (and softer) metals from 2.4mm to 3.6mm. I wouldn't use this for sawing thin metal sheets since tearing is most likely to happen!
Finally a blade that has 2.0mm distance between teeth is suitable for material thickness from 4mm to 6mm.

SAFETY FOR THIS MACHINE:
 
AVOID accidental starting. Be sure power switch is off before plugging in
UNPLUG tool when you need to change the blade or adjust the shoe angle
DO NOT start saw with material to be cut touching the saw blade
ALWAYS BE AWARE of where your fingers and power cord are in relation to the cutting blade
DO NOT cut metal with a blade rated for cutting wood. Typically blades for wood will have larger and fewer teeth than blades for metal (smaller and more teeth)
ALWAYS use the proper blade for the task at hand. The wrong type blade may cause the blade to seize and shake the tool violently, or may break the blade
ALWAYS USE CLAMPS when cutting any metal
BE AWARE of sharp burrs on the cut edge on metal pieces
DO NOT start cutting until the blade is moving at full speed
DO NOT FORCE the saw blade into a very tight curve too fast. You can break the saw blade
MAKE SURE blade is installed with the cutting teeth facing the front of the saw, and that it is aligned straight
DO NOT CUT without adequate clearance for the blade below the cut line. If the tip of the blade strikes down on a solid surface, it will usually break
DO NOT attempt to reinsert the blade into the cut line while the saw is running
DO NOT TOUCH the blade or reciprocating parts of the saw while it is in motion. The tip of the saw may not be visible while the saw is running
BE AWARE that the blade will be very hot after finishing a cut
 

THINGS TO REMEMBER WHEN USING THIS MACHINE:
 
Check the orbit lever before making cuts. A setting of "0" is no orbit, and a setting of "3" is maximum orbit
The orbit adjustment lever will allow you to make faster cuts, but with less precision. The cut line will be rougher
Make sure the shoe is resting flat on the material you are cutting, or the saw will be come unstable

The first 5 are online now on the main site. The tools page can be accessed in the Motors, 2, 3 and 4 wheel sections.

http://www.mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/Tech/tools/mainpage.html

- the Jigsaw isn't added yet as that's just been sneaked in here!

oops sorry, I`ll slow down n let you catch up  ;D. Thats a nice header you have set up there.

 ;D

The jigsaw's added too now.

Taps and dies are cutting tools used to create screw threads in  metal.
A tap cuts a thread on the inside surface of a hole, creating a female surface which functions like a nut and the die cuts a thread on a preformed cylindrical rod, which creates a male threaded piece which functions like a bolt.The process of cutting the threads in a hole is called "tapping" the hole, so it follows that the process of cutting with a die is called "threading",or sometimes "chasing".
Although there are 3 different types, the most common tap is the taper tap. This tap has a pronounced taper to the cutting edges which gives a very gradual cutting action and is most often used when the material to be tapped is difficult to work (e.g., alloy steel) or the tap is of a very small diameter and thus prone to breakage.

Added to the Tools & their uses bit of the Motors section on the main site TB.  ;)

Tools & their uses (http://mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/Tech/tools/mainpage.html)

While there are various types and designs of pipe benders available this style seems to be  more commonly used than the others.
What this tool is primarily used for:
We use the pipe bender for putting bends into pipe, this is an easy to use machine for bending all manner of steel pipe and up to 180°.
How this tool works:
A hydraulic pump, fitted within the heavy duty steel frame, progressively applies up to 12 tons of pressure. This particular one includes six interchangeable pipe-work formers from ½" to 2" and so should cover all the different pipe sizes you will use. It is relatively lightweight and portable and operates in both horizontal & vertical positions.
Your former, chosen to suit the pipe size, sits on the head of the ram, the two rollers at the top of the frame are then adjusted to determine the radius of bend. Your pipe is slotted under the rollers and into the former and the bend is achieved by pumping on the handle.
Tips for using this tool:
Always mark the centre line of the former, then place a corresponding mark on your pipe (tipex type correction fluid is ideal). This allows you to re-position your pipe exactly, should you need to tweek your bend.
A homemade angle finder (two pieces of stap steel bolted together at one end) will help in determining the correct angle to bend to.
Your pipe has an inbuilt memory and will try to straighten out after being bent so a couple of extra pumps on the handle will counter this natural spring effect.

Perfect TB. We'll get it added to the main site.  ;)

What this tool is used for:
The MIG welder is used for joining metal together.

General information:
MIG welding was developed in the 1940's and 60 years later the general principle is still very much the same. MIG welding uses an arc of electricity to create a short circuit between a continuously fed anode (+ the wire-fed welding torch) and a cathode ( - the metal being welded).The heat produced by the short circuit, along with a non-reactive (hence inert) gas melts the metal and allows them to mix together. Once the heat is removed, the metal begins to cool and solidify, and forms a new piece of fused metal. A few years ago the full name - Metal Inert Gas (MIG) welding was changed to Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW) but if you call it that most people won't know what you are talking about - the name MIG welding has stuck.
 MIG welding is useful because you can use it to weld many different types of metals: carbon steel, stainless steel, aluminum, magnesium, copper, nickel, silicon bronze and other alloys.

Advantages of MIG welding:
The ability to join a wide range of metals and thicknesses
All-position welding capability
A good weld bead
A minimum of weld splatter
Easy to learn

Disadvantages of MIG welding:
MIG welding is best used on thin to medium thick metals
The use of an inert gas makes this type of welding less portable than arc welding which requires no external source of shielding gas

HOW DOES THE MIG WELDER WORK?
A MIG Welder has a couple of different parts. Inside the welder you will find a spool of wire and a series of rollers that pushes the wire out to the welding torch. There isn't much going on inside this part of the welder, so it's worth it to take just a minute and familiarize yourself with the different parts. If the wire feed jams up for any reason you will want to check this part of the machine out. A welder with internal feed assy is commonly known as a compact mig welder. The large spool of wire should be held on with a tension nut. The nut should be tight enough to keep the spool from unraveling so to avoids over-run (birds nesting) when trigger released, but not so tight that the rollers can't pull the wire from the spool. If you follow the wire from the spool you can see that it goes into a set of rollers that pull the wire off of the big roll, this then pushes the wire up to the torch to the tip ready for welding.
The Gas Supply.
Assuming you are using a shielding gas with your MIG welder there will be a cylinder of gas behind the MIG. This is either100% Argon or a mixture of CO2 and Argon. This gas shields the weld as it forms. Without the gas your welds will look brown, splattered and just generally not very nice.  When welding in areas with a draught you may need to run more gas pressure to avoid getting porosity in the weld.
Once the wire passes through the rollers it is sent down a set of hoses which lead to the welding torch. The hoses carry the charged electrode and the argon gas.
The Welding Torch.
The welding torch is the business end of things. It's where most of your attention will be directed during the welding process.The torch consists of a trigger that controls the wire feed and the flow of electricity. The wire is guided by a replaceable copper tip that is made for each specific welder. Tips vary in size to fit whatever diameter wire you happen to be welding with.The outside of the tip of torch is covered by a metal shroudwhich protects the electrode and directs the flow of gas out the tip of the torch.
The Earth Clamp.
The earth clamp is the cathode (-) in the circuit and completes the circuit between the welder, the welding torch and the project. It should either be clipped directly to the piece of metal being welding or onto a metal welding table.The earth clamp must be making good contact with the piece being welded for it to work so be sure to grind off any rust or paint that may be preventing it from making a connection with your work.

 MIG welding is a pretty safe thing to do so long as you follow a few important safety precautions. Because MIG welding produces lots of heat and lots of harmful light, you need to take a few steps to protect yourself.
The light that is generated by any form of arc welding is extremely bright. It will burn your eyes and your skin just like the sun will if you don't protect yourself. The first thing you will need to weld is a welding mask. Auto darkening masks are really helpful if you are going to do a lot of welding and make a great investment if you think you will be working with metal often. Manual masks require you to jerk your head,dropping the mask into position or require you to use a free hand to pull the mask down. Think of protecting others from the light as well and use a welding screen if it's available to make a border around yourself. The light has a tendency to draw on lookers who might need to shielded from being burned too.
Wear gloves and leathers to protect yourself from molten metal splattering off of your work piece. Some people like thin gloves for welding so you can have a lot of control. In TIG welding this is especially true, however for MIG welding you can wear whatever gloves you feel comfortable with. The leathers will not only protect your skin from the heat produced by welding but they will also protect your skin from the UV light produced by welding. If you are going to be doing any amount of welding more than just a minute or two you will want to cover up because UV burns happen fast!. If you are not going to wear leathers at least make sure that you are wearing clothing made from cotton. Plastic fibers like polyester and rayon will melt when they come into contact with molten metal and will burn you. Cotton will get a hole in it, but at least it won't burn and make hot metal goop.
Do not wear open toed shoes or synthetic shoes that have mesh over the top of your toes. Hot metal often falls straight down and I have burned many holes through the tops of my shoes. Molten metal + hot plastic goo from shoes = no fun. Wear leather shoes or boots if you have them or cover your shoes in something non-flammable to stop this.
Weld in a well ventilated area. Welding produces hazardous fumes which you shouldn't breathe in if you can avoid it. Wear either a mask, or a respirator if you are going to be welding for a prolonged amount of time. Important Safety Warning DO NOT WELD GALVANIZED STEEL. Galvanized steel contains a zinc coating that produces carcinogenic and poisonous gas when it is burned. Exposure to the stuff can result in heavy metal poisoning (welding shivers) - flu like symptoms that can persist for a few days, but that can also cause permanent damage.
Fire Fire Fire: Molten metal can spit several feet from a weld. Grinding sparks are even worse. Any sawdust, paper or plastic bags in the area can smolder and catch fire, so keep a tidy area for welding. Your attention will be focused on welding and it can be hard to see what's going on around you if something catches fire. Reduce the chance of that happening by clearing away all flammable objects from your weld area. Keep a fire extinguisher beside the exit door from your workshop. CO2 is the best type for welding.

Wow! A proper essay! Wish my MIG looked as clean & tidy as that one. Mine's literally falling apart.

was gonna ask why you wern`t at work but just read that on the other thread  ;D.
I um`d and ah`d over doing a welder for this section because its a skill that needs to be learned rather than a tool that you can just pick up and use straight away.
I have deliberatly not covered actually using it, only explained what it is an how it works, Hopefully i got the balance right.

Spot on, as always Sir.
Flap & I did a 12 week evening class at the local tech college when we started building his trike a couple of years ago. I'd had a MIG welder for years & built all kinds of things with it, but was never 100% certain I was doing it right as I'd never been taught by anyone. I'm glad to say I had been, but the course gave me confidence in what I was doing. It cost about 60 quid for 12 1 hour sessions I think. I'd recommend it.

tbone i would like to congratulate you on a very  informative thread like this i am a coded welder and been building chops trikes an hotrods for over 30 years but we can all still learn and you have done this forum proud THANKS MATE

great thread idea!

very informative


oooh, i need to get me one of these!  ;D

When Yoda & I first set up this website, we said it needs something like this -basic information. The sort of stuff we take for granted & assume everyone knows. As Ron says, none of us know everything & we can all learn a little bit more.
TBone's taken this mammoth task on completely off his own bat & yes, we're very, very grateful to him.
Thanks TB.  ;)

   further to the cut off saw bit, our old abrasive saw is now consigned to the back of the stores, I had the opportunity to get a new one for a job and decided to try a toothed blade instead. It's bloody brilliant. For the money I would think just about unbeatable, does everything it says it will with no drama. Cuts tube, solid bar, plate, angle, everything I have tried so far. I know of a commercial workshop that has had the same model for over a year and are still using the original blade. Angle setting is just a trigger lock with detents for the more commonly used angles, no more spanners and guess. I really can't find a bad thing to say about it. I think I paid about £180 and have seen them cheaper since.   

Will it cut my overdraft?

It is a lovey piece of kit. The only drawback that i found was that you need a wide bench to site it on, if my shed had been bigger i`d own one too.

...yeah, that's a fair point. One of the few times that I am actually glad that I built the main bench five foot deep, all the rest of the time it's just a place to pile all the junk that you can't be arsed to put away. I had thought that there was a smaller saw available that just chopped rather than pulling through as well but having just checked I don't see it listed.

;)
Don`t believe him, he makes me do it! i only do the write ups to stop Mr M slapping me on the head with jaffa cakes  ;D

Shaddup & keep writing damn you!

Ok Mig Welder and Hydraulic pipe bender now added to the tools on the main site.

Thanks Tbone.

Flap discs

Flap Discs are used for:
Intermediate and finishing of welds. Deburring, rust removal and snagging. They are suitable for almost all ferrous & non-ferrous materials.
Excellent for surface finishing

Flap Disc specifications:
A/O Flap Discs - Coated with Aluminium Oxide. For use on alloy steel and low-alloy steel

Z/A Flap Discs - Coated with Zirconia Alumina. For use on High-alloy, stainless and heat treated steels also high tensile non ferrous metals

S/C Flap Discs - Coated with Silicon Carbide. For use on Marble, stone, glass and non ferrous metals.

Typical Flap Discs sizes:
100mm X 16mm (4" x 5/8")
115mm X 22mm (4-1/2" x 7/8")
125mm X 22mm (5" x 7/8")
150mm X 22mm (6" x 7/8")
180mm X 22mm (7" x 7/8")


Types of Flap Discs:
T-27 - Used when working on flat grinding surfaces. Most efficient when used at a 0-15 degree angle.

T-29 - Conical type has an angle excellent for contour and edge work. Best at more dramatic angle of 15 to 25 degrees.

Flap discs are flexible, and will tend to follow the contours of whatever you are grinding. Not much use if you want to get rid of those contours.The trick is angling the disc (see above) and using light pressure.
Even with light pressure they are still quicker than a grinding disc.
As with all sanding products, flap discs are available in various grades from fine to coarse, a 40grit disc will cover most jobs well and remove metal quickly, a finer grade disc is needed for final sanding.

Depressed center grinding discs/ Cutting discs

Grinding discs are used for grinding away material. Unlike the Flap disc, Grinding with a Grinding disc takes place on the edge of the disc. Although they have a depressed centre to keep the fixing plate away from the workpiece when grinding at an angle you should NEVER grind with the flat face, it is dangerous!!!

Cutting discs are used for cutting material and vary in thickness from 1mm (usually used on stainless steel) through to 4mm. A thinner disc will cut cleaner and quicker but are generaly more expensive than the thicker ones. Cutting discs do not have a depressed centre and are completely flat.

disc specifications:


A -  Aluminium oxide. For use on Metal and Steel

WA - White aluminium oxide. For use on Stainless Steel

ZA  - Zirconia alumunium oxide.High performance grinding and very long life. Excellent on ferrous metals, castings and stainless steel

C  -  Silicon carbide. for use on masonry, concrete, stone and non-ferrous metals.

Never use a grinding disc to cut and never use a cutting disc to grind. Both can shatter very easily and can inflict serious damage on you and your surroundings!!!

You've done it again TB  ;D Thank you. We'll get it online as soon as poss.

Fibre Backed resin bonded Sanding Discs

These are used in the same way as the Flap disc but are much more rigid and better suited to flat surfaces. Again they are Aluminium oxide discs, that come in various grades and need to be used with a special rubber backing pad.
The sharp, heat-treated grain is electrostatically coated to a heavy duty vulcanized fibre backing with heat resistant phenolic resins. Fast, cool cutting performance.
Applications include weld grinding, blending, finishing, deburring and high production work. Also for automotive industry, plastics, ferrous metals, paint, body fillers and fiberglass.

Resin Fiber discs are available in various grains:
A/O - for cutting, debburing and finishing on metals, welds and car body repair. grits: 16-120
Z/A - for high speed steel, stainless steel and hard steel. Rough grinding to finishing. grits: 16-120.
S/C - for non-ferrous materials, fiberglass, stone and masonry. grits: 16-400.

As requested by a forum member via you  ;). And its my pleasure  ;D
 the flap disc section is complete, think i`ll lump the cutting disc in with the grinding disc and try to elaborate on the sanding discs a bit more so leave those with me a bit longer  ;)

Will do. PM me when you're done & we'll get it added.

Various Discs now added. Thaks again Tbone  ;D

http://www.mankymonkeymotors.co.uk/Tech/tools/mainpage.html

pleasure

Ooo tools that rich people use!
Us poor plebs have to manage wiv a dril and an angle grinder.
Amazing wot you can get at netto's nowadays.
Any they replace it free after 18 months when it goes bang.

Netto's?

one of those discount supermarkets, like lidl or aldi, me thinks  ;D

"Drill an Angle Grinder!" bloody luxury, I can remember when we used to 'av to chew it out wiv our teaff, an bore holes wiv just our fingernails.

Yep, cheapo swedish supermarket.
http://www.netto.co.uk/internet/nettog/menu/main.nsf

I've got to go to Leeds or Goole for my nearest Lidl.

Acsurly, the anglegrinder is a recent addition, jobs were taking far too long wiv the files.
And, yes I still have the brace 'n' bit in reserve.

I'm a hacksaw & handfile man meself.
And I still think fire is a pretty neat idea. It'll never catch on though. :P

Metal Lathe

Bed: Usually made of cast iron. Provides a heavy rigid frame on which all the main components are mounted.
Ways: Inner and outer guide rails that are precision machined parallel to assure accuracy of movement.
Headstock: mounted in a fixed position on the inner ways, usually at the left end. Using a chuck, it rotates the work.
Spindle: Hole through the headstock to which bar stock can be fed, which allows shafts that are up to 2 times the length between lathe centers to be worked on one end at a time.
Chuck: 3-jaw (self centering) or 4-jaw (independent) to clamp part being machined.
Chuck: allows the mounting of difficult workpieces that are not round, square or triangular.
Tailstock: Fits on the inner ways of the bed and can slide towards the headstock to fit the length of the work piece. An optional taper turning attachment would be mounted to it.
Tailstock Quill: Has a Morse taper to hold a lathe center, drill bit or other tool.
Carriage: Moves on the outer ways. Used for mounting and moving most the cutting tools.
Cross Slide: Mounted on the traverse slide of the carriage, and uses a handwheel to feed tools into the workpiece.
Tool Post: To mount tool holders in which the cutting bits are clamped.
Compound Rest: Mounted to the cross slide, it pivots around the tool post.
Apron: Attached to the front of the carriage, it has the mechanism and controls for moving the carriage and cross slide.
Feed Rod: Has a keyway, with two reversing pinion gears, either of which can be meshed with the mating bevel gear to forward or reverse the carriage using a clutch.
Lead Screw: For cutting threads.
Split Nut: When closed around the lead screw, the carriage is driven along by direct drive without using a clutch.
Steady Rest: Clamped to the lathe ways, it uses adjustable fingers to contact the workpiece and align it. Can be used in place of tailstock or in the middle to support long or unstable parts being machined. 
Follow Rest: Bolted to the lathe carriage, it uses adjustable fingers to bear against the workpiece opposite the cutting tool to prevent deflection.

Common Lathe Uses.

Facing:
Facing is the square finishing of the ends of the workpiece and is often used to bring the piece to a specified length. In facing operations, the cutter bit does not move laterally (left or right) but cuts inward or outward from the centre of the workpiece. Facing of the ends is usually performed before turning operations to provide a `true & square` workpiece.

Straight Turning:
Straight turning may he performed upon a workpiece supported in a chuck, but the majority of workpieces turned on a lathe are turned between centers. Turning is the removal of metal from the external surface of cylindrical workpieces using various types of cutting tool bits.

Shoulder Turning:
You may need to turn a workpiece so that it will have two or more diameters in its length. For example, a bar 12 inches long might be 3 inches in diameter for half its length, and 3 1/2 inches in diameter for the other half. It would therefore have an abrupt step or shoulder 1/4 inch high that is 6 inches from the small end. The shoulder may be machined so that it forms a sharp corner with the small diameter, or a fillet may be formed so that the corner is slightly rounded instead of square.

Finish Turning:
When the workpiece has been rough turned to within about 1/32 inch of the finished size, take a finishing cut. A fine feed, the proper lubricant, and a sharp edged toolbit are necessary to produce a smooth finish. Measure carefully to be sure that the workpiece is being machined to the proper dimension. The lathe should be stopped whenever measurements are to be made.

Taper Turning:
In ordinary straight turning, the cutting tool moves along a line parallel to the axis of the work, causing the finished job to be the same diameter throughout. However, when cutting a taper, the tool moves at an angle to the axis of the work, producing a taper. Therefore, to turn a taper, the work must either be mounted in a lathe so that the axis upon which it turns is at an angle to the axis of the lathe, or cause the cutting tool to move at an angle to the axis of the lathe

Parting:
One of the methods of cutting off a piece of stock while it is held in a lathe is a process called parting. The parting tool is fed into the rotating workpiece,perpendicular to its axis, cutting a progressively deeper groove as the workpiece rotates. When the cutting edge of the tool gets to the center of the workpiece being parted, the workpiece drops off. Parting is used to cut off parts that have already been machined in the lathe, or to cut tubing and bar to their required lengths.

Boring:
Boring is a cutting operation that uses a single-point cutting tool to produce conical and cylindrical surfaces by enlarging an existing opening in a workpiece. The cutting tool moves parallel to the axis of rotation, again, boring can be straight or tapered and in order to produce a taper, the cutting tool moves at an angle to the axis of rotation..

Lathe Cutting Tools

Right handed tools cut from right to left, and therfore Left handed tools cut from left to right.
The Round nosed tool can be used in either direction.
Parting tools do not move laterally and are used for cutting into the workpiece.

I've got a 2054 piece jigsaw but never managed to finish it, think there's a couple of pieces missing.............................................!! ;D

Thats a big puzzle to try and get finished in one day  ;)

Metal Marking Tools

Centre Square.
A Centre Square is used to find the centre of a piece of round material. It is virtually impossible to do this by eye. The centre square is probably one of the simplest tools ever designed as it is composed of only two pieces of material. When placed up against a round piece of material such as a round section of steel it can be used to find the centre accurately.
The tool is placed on the end of the bar and slid up until it self centres on the 2 angles, the straight blade is then automaticaly in the centre of the bar.
Scribe a line along the flat edge then turn the square through 90 deg and scribe another line, where they cross is the centre of the bar.
You can also use it for finding the centre line down a length of tube  ;)

Metal Marking Tools

Engineers Square or Try Square.
A square is used to check the squareness and or flatness of a machined surface. It is also used to set workpieces at right angles to each other and to make lines at 90 deg to the edge of workpieces.
They are available in many sizes and some are marked like a rule on the blade allowing the option to take linear measurements.

Metal Marking Tools

Calipers.

There are several variants of caliper, but in essence they boil down to 2 types.
The first is the outside caliper, these are generally used for taking rough measurements of the thickness of a workpiece. The 2 legs are opened out and closed onto the outer surface of the material, the caliper is then transferred to a rule where the measurement is read.
You also have the option of a spring joint caliper, this is operated by turning the nut on the side of the caliper. The advantage of the spring caliper is that the legs cannot be moved accidentally.

Metal Marking Tools

Calipers..

Inside Caliper.
Inside calipers are available in the same size range as outside calipers. They have straight legs, turned out at the top and are used to take inside measurements.

Metal Marking Tools

Divider.
The divider looks like a set of calipers but has pointed ends at the bottom of the legs.
It is used for scribing circles or arcs and for marking out distances.
To stop the divider from slipping on the work surface, a prick punch should be used to locate one leg of the divider.
The divider points need to be kept sharp to ensure accurate work.

Metal Marking Tools

Punch.

There are 3 basic punches used in metal marking.

The first is a centre punch. The angle of the point on the centre punch is 90deg, this produces a wide but shallow mark and provides a good seating to start a drill bit.

The second punch used is a dot punch. The angle of the point on this punch is 60deg making a smaller deeper mark than the centre punch. The dot punch is used to make witness marks for marking out.

The third punch is the prick punch. This has a 30deg point angle and is used almost exclusively for marking out when using a pair of dividers, as the 30 deg angle is perfect for seating the point of the divider leg.

Concise & informative as always Tim. Thank you.
We'll add these to the main website once we get it up & running again.
There's always more you can learn isn't there -I've never seen a centre square before. Not quite sure how it works.

I`ll add a picture especially for you  ;D

Just for the spethial people.  :P

Odd leg Jennys (No! not a woman with one leg shorter than the other, called Jenny) or Hermaphrodite calipers, which have one leg bent inward and one straight leg ending in a sharp point, are used for scribing lines at a specified distance from a flat or curved surface.

Cheers Doc, I missed that one  ;D