my new trike project

[ROD]

I mustve been lucky then, cos they accepted taped up stuff on mine.I noticed stuff at the last minute, didnt have time to rectify, just used tape.

[Olds]

I mustve been lucky then, cos they accepted taped up stuff on mine.I noticed stuff at the last minute, didnt have time to rectify, just used tape.

the only edge that will take some sorting is the one on the forks. he didnt like the edge on the arm/lug that must secure some fairing on the original bike.

If you are referring to the big lugs that stick out forwards on the bottom sliders, they are the original mudguard mounts. You could possibly cut them off, or stick a ball over them. They might make good spot lamp mounting points

[Manky Monkey]

That's still a reason to celebrate though Craig! As Kev says, that's bugger all failures. When we first put my truck in for testing we got a list of fails that ran to 4 sheets of A4!
You could fix the problems in an afternoon. The majority of vehicles don't pass first time & at least now you know what they're looking for & why. I have a real phobia of tests & exams, so didn't go into the test centre when mine was done -but it's really not as daunting as you think is it.

You could grind the fork leg lugs off & sand them smooth.
Make a tin plate cover for the fuel pump or even blank it off & let it gravity feed from the tank for the test. HT leads could run through a plastic tube to shield them & tidy them up.
Car Builder Solutions sell reflectors. They specialise in kit car/home builds & a lot of the parts in their catalogue are labelled as BIVA/MSVA compliant. Worth a browse anyway cos they might have better solutions to some of the problems trikes create.

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/

Woolies Trim sell rubber edging bead. I used it on the guards of my last couple of trikes. Part number R10. £3.50 a metre.

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-322-rubber-extrusion.aspx

What style filler cap have you got? It's a Harley tank isn't it? I'm pretty sure the MSVA requirements are exactly the same measurements as a standard Harley cap, (12mm above the surface of the tank, with a domed top?). If you've got the later style screw-in Harley cap, you can use a flush fit pop-up cap like the one on my Yamaha. If you need it, I can lend you mine. £16.50 on Ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrome-Screw-Type-Smooth-Pop-up-Gas-Fuel-Caps-Cover-Set-For-Harley-Davidson-New-/281065667297?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item4170d1bae1

So again, well done chap, you've done bloody well -now get on & get it fixed & back in! 

[scannerzer]

well done Twisted if i get so few problems when the time comes i'll be more than happy

[twisted]

cheers for all the support guys  . was a bit miffed,want to do it first time but like you say its nothing really.
i have ordered some rubber trim stuff so that will be the mudguards dealt with.
have a plan for the guard mounts just need to have a look at work tomorrow  .
andy yes its a harley tank but unfortunately its the twist lock one not a screw in one. the measurement is 15mm from tank top and thats the neck on mine without the cap on. dave the tester said to raise the tank level around the filler with a tank protector or rubber donut like ON said.
will do some looking and headscratching about the shields tomorrow.
goose has some spare reflectors.
dont worry i will be trying to get this done asap and tested again  . will also mean i get to ride it again,might have to find a longer way round  .
and i will keep my fingers crossed for you scannerzer

[the coppersmith]

I took my mates kit car for IVA recently and it failed on strange things, so trailered it all the way home fixed them and took it back and it passed. First test was £450 retest was £90 plus fuel for the trailer exercise twice, not cheap but had to be done, the testers were actually very good and advised us how to get it through, seems emissions are one of the most common failures. There was a huge american motorhome there and that went into pages of faults.

[Manky Monkey]

I think the emissions requirements vary according to the age of the engine. My truck has a 1979 Rover motor & I had a letter of confirmation from a Rover parts supplier, so it only had to meet '79 emissions regulations.
So did you have any problems riding to & from the test centre Craig? How'd it behave in traffic? Anybody notice the lack of number plates?

[twisted]

yeah thats right about the emissions andy. i made sure i told him it was a 78 engine  . adjusted my idle screw down just to make sure. when he tested he said 'oh 1.2'. panicked i asked if that was ok to pass. he said on that year i could have gone up to 4.5  relief.
riding to and from was great. most nervous pulling out on to the road and the first time i had to put it into 3rd gear. once i was cruising i loved it, big grin and laughing to my self. no problem with having no plates but interested looks from the public and a nod from a biker.
she does something a bit strange though. if i stop in gear with foot on clutch she sometimes stales and clutch makes a bit of a weird noise when depressed. goose says some new plugs and points would be good so those are on the list to buy. cant wait to get out on it again 

[stumpy]

all good news then mate you will tick off that short list in no time ... well done i rekon the noise when pressing the clutch will be thrust bearing
easy fix or put up with the noise 

[Olds]

most nervous pulling out on to the road and the first time i had to put it into 3rd gear.

The fun starts when you run out of revs in 3rd and start to wind it up in 4th
As stumpy says, noise is probably clutch release bearing. Stalling in gear with the clutch depressed may be the clutch dragging slightly and needs adjusting.

[ROD]

I agree re thrust bearing.I must say that your first ride on road description brought back so many memories as I read it! To actually get out there and mix it with the traffic is AWESOME! I still love it and have a huge ear to ear grin!

[twisted]

ok so the clutch will have to be looked at in the not to distant future then.
look forward to fourth gear then 
yep still have a grin and wanting to get back on  it.
ok so i think i have sorted two of the faults.
fault 1 radius of less than 3mm on front fork mount

my new trike project

fixed i think

my new trike project

fault 2 distance between tank top and fuel cap edge greater than 15mm
think i may have fixed this by getting a bit creative with some rubber doubled the rubber around the neck to make sure it is past the requirement.

my new trike project

my new trike project

what do you think? do these fixes look good enough to you? or should i not go with the creative tank cover piece and just cut a rectangular piece?

[ROD]

'legal' or not, I dunno, but I really like the shape of the motif!

[fifer]

Regarding stalling when ticking over with the clutch depressed , the tickover should be set with the clutch depressed .
Also, with a 15 thou points gap on the distributor , have you set the static timing to around 10 degrees Before Top Dead Centre .
The early carbon thrust type clutches need to be set up with 1/16 inch free play at the bottom of the operating arm and a spring to pull or hold the operating arm in a rearwards direction .
If the carbon is in contact with the clutch at all times , or allowed to chatter on and off the clutch , it will wear very rapidly  right down to the metal .

I notice in one of your older photos that it appears that the floatbowl lid is the early type with only one feed pipe stub and the overflow just pours out of the wee vent .
If it is still the same type , I would highly recommend that you replace it with the later lid due to the fact that , in the event of a stuck needle , the excess petrol is dumped right on top of the hot exhaust possibly resulting in roasted nuts   ;

https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintsandtips/carb-stuff/carb-maintenance/su-carb-floatbowl-info
Since it is running the way it is I would do any adjustments after you pass the retest .
By the way congratulations on only getting those minor faults  
.
.

[Olds]

Is that a walking stick end? As long as it can't easily come off should be fine.
What you have should be ok but not sure if it should surround the cap.
This is what I fitted for the caps. Was debateable if needed, but I was playing safe. Available from most plumbing suppliers and looks like the image in the MSVA manual.