850 reliant engine electrics

[merv]

Hi Pete
How much did those tubes cost you including having them turned down, also how do the wheel end bits fit onto the new tubes.
What you have done is what i like to do if its not to hard.
Makes the axle look sharp

[steve brock]

When you replace the tubes how's the flange come off ?

[trikerpete]

First I took photos of various parts of the axle, too make sure it went back together the same way. Then after splitting the axle in half (also remove the 8 studs) and removing the crown wheel & pinon, I drilled out the rivets holding the old tubes to the alloy diff housing then drifted (carefully hammered) the old tubes out of the alloy housing. I was going to heat it in oven, but couldnt get half an axle inside. With the old tubes now parted from the alloy diff housing I made a basic jig, mainly to get the exact overall length when remaking the tubes. The new tubes were 2.15" o/d x .24 wall thickness seamless mild steel, 1 end of each new tube was machined down to the same as the old one for pattern, for a length of 65mm. After cutting off the hub bearing carrier
from the old tubes, they were then welded (in the jig) onto the non machined end of the appropriate length of new tube. To fit the new tubes into the alloy diff housing I cooked the alloy diff housings in the oven for about 30mins, make sure they are grease/oil free or im pretty sure you will be smoked out of the kitchen. While parts are cooking in oven, get sturdy flat bit of wood and place on solid ground/concrete. After parts are well cooked carefully place, one at a time, on the wood so that it inline with the new tube and using big hammer and another piece of wood proceed to drift new tube into place, this should easily drop into position. Before new tubes are fitted make sure you file/machine a "leading edge" onto the machined end, this will enable the tube to slide into the alloy diff housing easier. Also make sure that the "flat face" around the hub bearing carrier is in alignment with the propshaft coupling, this is important if you are doing a disc brake conversion. When all parts have cooled down you will need to drill & tap through the original rivet holes, I used m8 bolts after checking what length was needed so they dont tighten down onto the halfshafts. Final job was to drill hole and weld on a short length of 10mm o/d tube for a small K & N type breather. The cost of new tube & machining was £20 per side at my local machine shop.

[steve brock]

Ah bum now I'm thinking of doing tha same! ummm how'd I rub the powder coating off?

[trikerpete]

Just thought I'd give update as i remember things. its an age thing 
The finished length of new axle tube, up too the outer face of the hub bearing carrier is 515mm, this includes the "65mm machined end". One other thing, at the opposite end to the "externally machined end" I also  machined an  "internall" recess of 30mm/+ so the existing hub bearing carrier (which should have about 30mm/- of old axle tube left on it) can be located centrally before welding together.

[trikerpete]

Note:- this last page (3) has been moved to Trike Tech, Reliant "B" Axle Info. I thought it more relevant